Headlight restoration question...

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WRAPT C5Z06

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If I start with 1000 grit and finish with 3000 grit, what pad and polish should I use to remove the 3000 grit sanding marks to give a crystal clear finish?
 
I use M105 on Orange LC pad followed by M205 on a white LC pad with my lightweight flex its a great combo. I normally finish with 2000 gritt. Then use a good sealant on them and you are good to go
 
sullysdetailing said:
I use M105 on Orange LC pad followed by M205 on a white LC pad with my lightweight flex its a great combo. I normally finish with 2000 gritt. Then use a good sealant on them and you are good to go
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Thanks.

I've never really done Headlight restoration, so I ordered some Meg's 1000 and 3000 unigrit papers just like the ones that come with their headlight restoration kit. I just didn't know what to compound or polish with after sanding. Their kit comes with a yellow wool pad(drill adapter), but I didn't want to buy the whole kit.
 
There is no need to go any higher than 1500 on headlights. Because the plastics are so soft compared to paint it is extremely easy to remove sanding scratches. With that said, m105/orange will easily remove those scratches.
 
sullysdetailing said:
I use M105 on Orange LC pad followed by M205 on a white LC pad with my lightweight flex its a great combo. I normally finish with 2000 gritt. Then use a good sealant on them and you are good to go
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Is there any need to follow with M205?
 
I used 105 on my Sky headlights before DF and came back with 205 on one or two of them. I couldnt really tell a difference so I didn't use 205 on all of them.
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
Is there any need to follow with M205?
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Not as far as polishing, no. Only with a good sealant. I opt more towards Menz Power Gloss, then Power Finish followed by a sealant. This of course follows 1000 grit, then 2000 grit sanding. Sometimes I'll start with 600 for really bad lenses.
 
Thanks guys. If headlights are pretty pad, will compounding with just 105 even compare to sanding, then compounding?
 
I've used various compounds and polishes to get the job done. It's a fairly simple thing to do. Especially if you go up to 3000.
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
Thanks guys. If headlights are pretty pad, will compounding with just 105 even compare to sanding, then compounding?
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I haven't found it to work very well. Plus, IMO it's just more work to try and muscle it off with compound. You'll just spend too much time...and most likely not get the results you originally wanted.

Also, depending on what tool your using to compound with...you could get the plastic too hot causing a burn, or possibly warp the plastic. Especially since the plastic is much softer. Makes your life easier and less risky by just sanding, then compounding. I get mine done in about 30 minutes tops from start to finish + adding a urethane sealant.
 
Kristopher1129 said:
I haven't found it to work very well. Plus, IMO it's just more work to try and muscle it off with compound. You'll just spend too much time...and most likely not get the results you originally wanted.

Also, depending on what tool your using to compound with...you could get the plastic too hot causing a burn, or possibly warp the plastic. Especially since the plastic is much softer. Makes your life easier and less risky by just sanding, then compounding. I get mine done in about 30 minutes tops from start to finish + adding a urethane sealant.
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Thanks Kristopher. What kind of sealant is considered a urethane sealant? Will UTTG work?
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
Thanks Kristopher. What kind of sealant is considered a urethane sealant? Will UTTG work?
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Freekin is right on the money. That link he gave you is exactly what I do. It's just a 50/50 mix of Minwax Indoor/Outdoor urethane, and mineral spirits. Use a shop towel folded into a nice even square, and just lay some nice even strokes down. It will look brand new, guaranteed. :dblthumb2:

I have heard of people using UTTG too though. I like the Minwax/Mineral Spirits personally. I feel it seals better, and looks awesome. It really gives the lens a clear coat type of shine.
 
I've posted these pics around detailing forums for years but it's been a while since I pimped them out:

Bonneville_Before1.JPG


Bonneville_After1.JPG


Those were some fairly deep gouges in the lens from the customer rubbing her car up against another car in a parking lot. The results you see were achieved with nothing more than Meguiar's #83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish on a W8006 polishing pad and my G100A (first-gen Porter Cable 7424).

Just goes to show how soft and easy to correct headlights really are.
 
sullysdetailing said:
I use M105 on Orange LC pad followed by M205 on a white LC pad with my lightweight flex its a great combo. I normally finish with 2000 gritt. Then use a good sealant on them and you are good to go
Click to expand...


I totally agree!!!!
I'll start with a 1000grit and lube with Poorboys wash/wipe then go over with 2000grit, and slap a orange CCS pad on the Flex w/105 then white CCS pad w/205, finish with a UV protectant. Trust me Mark this is the ticket, and once you get it down, you'll restore a set a lenses in 15 mins!
 
I use 105/tufbuf wool on headlights followed with 205/white. Sometimes I dont have to sand and can get the results without it.

I always seal the headlights with Opti-Coat. I havent been able to do a longegvity test with it verses something else but I would think it would last as long as anything out there.
 
I don't see finishing with 3000 grit mentioned at all, most finishing with 2000 grit. Is it too big of a jump from 1000 to 3000? I figured sine 1000 and 3000 grade are papers offered in the Meg's HL kit, that should be the ticket. :dunno:
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
I don't see finishing with 3000 grit mentioned at all, most finishing with 2000 grit. Is it too big of a jump from 1000 to 3000? I figured sine 1000 and 3000 grade are papers offered in the Meg's HL kit, that should be the ticket. :dunno:
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You will be fine Mark. Think about it, 1000g is X amount deep so after you are finished sanding with 1000 you need to follow it up with something lighter to "even out" of "flatten out" the deep marks put in by the 1000g. 2000g obviously has more bite to level out those sanding marks left over by the 1000g faster than 3000g. The 3000g can still get the job done you just may have to spend a little more time on it because it doesnt have the "bite" 2000g does. But because 3000g is lighter your compounding of the headlights will be much easier.
 
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