Help - Burnt Paint ?

sportzfan76

sportzfan76

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Hi -

I tried to help out a friend of mine with a new truck that had one of the doors scratched up pretty badly. The paint color is a metalic grey.

I used a Meguiars DA G110 with Megs 105 and an orange pad and a yellow pad for some of the deeper scratches.

I've never had this happen before - but I have damaged a small area by leaving a circular marred area in the paint - possibly burnt ? !!

Can this be corrected with wet sanding or an orbital buffer ? Hopefully I don't have to have his door repainted.

Thanks for any advice - i need and appreciate it.
The 3rd pic was taken w/o a flash and shows the halo I left in his paint.
 
please - someone tell me what I'm up against here. Tried to do a friend a solid and now something tells me I'm gonna be out some $$$ to get this repaired.

Feed back please
 
I'm not saying it's impossible to burn the paint with a DA polisher but it's pretty darn near impossible. If you did break through the clear then it was awfully thin to begin with, almost non existent.

What you may have done is held the polisher in one spot creating a circular halo. Thoroughly clean the panel with a good paint cleaner then begin again.

This time try using a crisscross pattern and do 4 to 6 section pass. Start with Meguiar's M105 using an orange pad then switch to Meguiar's M205 and a white pad.

When polishing use a speed of 5. Stop and check your work to see if you've improved the overall appearance and reduced damage you've illustrated.
 
I doubt this can be corrected with an orbital. If it was me, I would try 3000 grit sandpaper, a foam block, and a spray bottle of water with a few drops of car wash soap mixed in, to reduce the paper loading up with paint. You will need another piece of sandpaper to clean the one you are using to sand with frequently, by checking every ten strokes or so, and then rubbing the two pieces together and spraying them with the water at the same time. You need to do this to prevent any loaded up paint on the paper from acting as a much harsher abrasive and making deep scratches as a result.
Because I can't actually see or feel the paint in person, I can't tell you for sure. I do feel that be using this method, and then by carefully buffing the area you can make at least most of the damage go away, maybe all, or maybe you will just subdue the appearance of it a lot.

It looks like you spent too much time on one spot and softened the paint with the buffer.

You could try a little polish by hand firt in a small area here, to see if you can get any results. For that matter, try and do the smallest section of this area that you can with the sandpaper method, and if it gets good results, then do the entire spot.
Part of me feels like it's no good the way it is, so the worst thing that can happen is that you will have to pay to have the panel repainted.
Whether you try to fix it and you make it worse, or you don't try fixing it, it will need a repaint either way I think. If it was me, I'd try the sandpaper method in a small spot. After all, people do wet sanding just to remove orange peel, and this is worse than that. No method will get you better results than wet sanding and polishing, IMO, so either do nothing and pay for repaint, or try to fix it and have a chance of not paying for repaint. I sort of doubt that it will be perfect after you are done, but it might be possible, so why not try? Just be very gradual in your approach and if it gets ANY worse, stop.

Try the hand polish method first, I think.
 
sportzfan76 said:
please - someone tell me what I'm up against here. Tried to do a friend a solid and now something tells me I'm gonna be out some $$$ to get this repaired.

Feed back please
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear this. Friends should understand, hopefully this one will too. IMO, Put down your machine for awhile! See if gently using some Megs UC on an orange pad, by hand, on the affected will clear up any of the damage first. If not, use a yellow pad with UC. Then back down to orange pad with ScratchX or similar polish. Keep going down the aggressive scale to a good finishing polish on a finishing pad. Good luck.

[Just some of my thoughts]
 
That can't be burnt paint. With an orbital!? I highly doubt it. I would try polishing that whole general area over again and see what it looks like.

Like Bobby said. It looks like you may have just let the buffer sit in one spot too long. My guess is that you probably put your product smack dab in the middle of the pad, then just pressed it to the paint and let it fly. It looks like whatever you used worked one particular area way too much.

Although, I don't know that I'd go over that with compound again. I would start light. Maybe a glaze, or polish first. If it doesn't come out...then move to the 105, and start from scratch. But I would guess that area has been compounded enough already. Trial and error at this point! Good luck. :dblthumb2:
 
Why not take it down to a local private body shop. and have them take a look at it, most of the guys are pretty decent and understanding...

Every one of them has been where you are now, next time give your friend the PC..
 
SATMAN40 said:
Why not take it down to a local private body shop. and have them take a look at it, most of the guys are pretty decent and understanding...

Every one of them has been where you are now, next time give your friend the PC..
Click to expand...

Not a bad idea. I've never seen anything like what you did on that paint happen. So maybe it would be best to have a professional fix that up. Plus, pictures only help so much when trying to remedy something like this. It's a lot different when you can take a good look in person.:iagree:
 
looks like what i did and wore the paint down to the primer, its unfortunate. mine was a little worse though.
 
I don't know why you guys are so incredulous...looks to me like he went through the clear. He didn't say what size pads but I can see it, 4" yellow 105 scratch removal, why not? That is why they always say if you can catch it with your fingernail, don't try to take the scratch out.
 
I have good news and bad news...

You didn't burn the paint :)





























You burned the clear :(
 
Setec Astronomy said:
I don't know why you guys are so incredulous...looks to me like he went through the clear. He didn't say what size pads but I can see it, 4" yellow 105 scratch removal, why not? That is why they always say if you can catch it with your fingernail, don't try to take the scratch out.
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You know, I have to agree that is most likely what happened here. Factory paint is very thin, and some scratches are just too deep to buff out. Deep scratches can only be filled with paint or you learn to live with them. I guess he just kept polishing that one spot until he polished all of the clear off. If so, can only be fixed with paint.
 

Wax it and walk away.









hidebc.gif



 
Setec Astronomy said:
I don't know why you guys are so incredulous...looks to me like he went through the clear. He didn't say what size pads but I can see it, 4" yellow 105 scratch removal, why not? That is why they always say if you can catch it with your fingernail, don't try to take the scratch out.
Click to expand...
I agree, that is a spot of missing clear. Not burned but cut right through. A good painter could fix it but it likely won't be perfect because he would either try to blend the new clear and there will likely be a blending mark of sorts or have to repaint then re clear the entire door to make it perfect. If you continue to polish on it you'll be seeing primer in no time. Don't kid yourself about this and continue polishing because it will only get worse. Live and learn. Sorry to say it but some lessons are expensive. Been there and seen it before.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
I don't know why you guys are so incredulous...looks to me like he went through the clear. He didn't say what size pads but I can see it, 4" yellow 105 scratch removal, why not? That is why they always say if you can catch it with your fingernail, don't try to take the scratch out.
Click to expand...
:iagree: It is possible, nothing is fool proof. 105 with a yellow LC pad is pretty aggresive. Did you try something less aggresive first? Or did you go right for the elephant gun?
 
loudog2 said:
:iagree: It is possible, nothing is fool proof. 105 with a yellow LC pad is pretty aggresive. Did you try something less aggresive first? Or did you go right for the elephant gun?
Click to expand...


No, I didn't start with the elephant gun. I used some less intensive product with an orange pad first, then the 105 with orange - and that removed about 80% of the scratches; I only went to the yellow pad attempting to get the most severe scratches.

This totally sucks.
 
That looks like you've removed the clear... hard to be 100% accurate by looking at a picture but if the paint in the inside of the circle area is dull then you've probably abraded or burned through the clear.


How to verify if you have burned through the clear layer of paint
Take a white cloth, with a whitish colored polish and gently rub the inside of the circle area, if you pull the color of the paint then the clear is missing. If the cloth remains white then something else is going on.
​


DA Polishers are very safe but clear coat paints are thin; usually if you burn through the clear layer with a DA you would have burned through the clear by hand doing the same amount of correction work if the paint was thin to start with.

:)
 
sportzfan76 said:
No, I didn't start with the elephant gun. I used some less intensive product with an orange pad first, then the 105 with orange - and that removed about 80% of the scratches; I only went to the yellow pad attempting to get the most severe scratches.

This totally sucks.
Click to expand...


I'm guessing you kept it in the one spot to long trying to remove the scratch. Sorry to hear of this unfortunate accident.
 
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