Help - Burnt Paint ?

Hey, everyone -
Thanks to you all for your input and quick support of my situation. As soon as I toweled the residue off I knew right away i had screwed this up. :doh:

I'd probably be a little less upset if it were my own car, and not the vehicle of an associate. (well, maybe not). :D

I'll keep you posted on the resolution and the associated monetary impact.
 
sorry that happened to you ! Maybe the owner will split the cost with you to have a repaint!
 
does the mark disappear in water? is it factory clear or repainted? just from the looks i've run across worse and fixed it. try some p2500 or p3000 and set the rotary as low as possible, prime the pad(!) and check periodicaly.... if it disappears in water. on the other hand...explain the customer about your liablity(except none) and risks you'll take to remove severve scratches from damaged paint.
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Was that because you could see colored or pigmented paint coming onto your towel?



:)
Click to expand...

No, it was because the area looked "cloudy"...when just a minute earlier it wasn't.

First input was from a reputable body shop... says they need to repaint/reclear the entire door and a portion of the side of the bed. $670 ! Its a new truck and this would probably make my friend happy...the repair not the price.

Getting a second opinion tomorrow.
 
You must have put some heavy pressure and held the polisher in that spot for awhile! BurnT clear. Always keep the polisher moving!
 
sportzfan76 said:
First input was from a reputable body shop... says they need to repaint/reclear the entire door and a portion of the side of the bed. $670 !
Click to expand...

Painting the entire side of a vehicle is very common when trying to match the finish. Because of the larger flake in the paint it becomes very difficult to set the flake so it exactly matches an existing panel.

$670.00 to repaint a door and rear quarter including clear coat isn't bad at all...
 
How much pressure did you apply when working with the polisher? This is really scary because I only used my Griot DA once but had no problem with it. Good luck with everything hope you can find a reasonable price.
 
Similar situation just happened to me on my neighbors front bumper on his 03 red f150. The whole truck is covered in swirls and scratches from him, and whoever else he let wash it, using a cheaper synthetic wash brush on the the entire vehicle; rims, tires, bed, and the clear coat; this has thinned the clear over the years. Anyway, the problem occurred when the spot buff pad came unscrewed from the adapter on my PC and it made contact with the bumper. I took a deep breathe and started soaking some 2500 grit paper. I sanded the area being careful and stopping while I was ahead. Then I was getting rid of the haze with a flat, orange spot buff pad and some Menz. Power Gloss, at what I thought was 5000opm. When I went to wipe the area and check my work I looked at the orange pad and it had red paint on it. I was praying that the paint on the bumper was single stage. It wasn't.:( I tried clearing it up by hand with a white pad, but the damage was done. I took the haze out and now it looks like a 6 inch long water spot. I applied some Pinn. paintwork cleansing lotion, WG prewax polish enhancer, and topped with WG DGPS. It looks okay, but I have to see what the neighbor says tomorrow. I am hoping that with the rest of the truck looking good from compounding, polishing, glaze/prewax polish enhancer, and WG DGPS(and some sign. series wax on the already paint sealed area on the bumper), he won't really think twice about it. Other wise I am calling in a favor to a buddy with a paint gun. Is it possible to just re-spray clear onto an area like that as long as there's no primer showing through? So needless to say I am sharing the pain that started this thread. Don't underestimate the PC7424 and a little compound!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top