Help! I USED TO MUCH?

CAMMIN HEMI said:
I'll let you now how it worked out. I'm a little confused though. Why would the tape need adhesive on both sides? Thanks!
Click to expand...

So it will to both the paper and pencil. Think this way...paper sticks to the tape and the paper/tape then sticks to the pencil.

I sure hope you and I are talking about the same process...LOL.

Bill
 
BillE said:
So it will to both the paper and pencil. Think this way...paper sticks to the tape and the paper/tape then sticks to the pencil.

I sure hope you and I are talking about the same process...LOL.

Bill
Click to expand...
I was talking about masking off the small repair area, LOL!!!!
 
CAMMIN HEMI said:
I was talking about masking off the small repair area, LOL!!!!
Click to expand...

WOW! I guess I wasn't reading correctly!

As the famous Emily Latilla (Gilda Radner SNL) would say, "Never mind."

Good luck...

Bill

I'm still laughing at my total mistake.
 
Well I screwed the pooch on this one. I got the bright idea that using the eraser end of a pencil, a small microfiber cloth, and UC wouldn't be as risky as wet sanding. I methodically worked on just the small spot the best I could using moderate pressure and a very short wiggle motion. The spot itself came out flat and I was happy with that. What I didn't notice was the removal of a layer of factory clear coat above the spot. It isn't much, but to the naked eye it looks like a dull spot about 1/4" x 1/4". I didn't think the curvature where the damage was located would be a factor to be concerned with just compounding an area smaller than a pencil eraser. Live and learn and call the body shop! Next one will be Doctor Colorchip!!!
 
CAMMIN HEMI said:
Well I screwed the pooch on this one. I got the bright idea that using the eraser end of a pencil, a small microfiber cloth, and UC wouldn't be as risky as wet sanding. I methodically worked on just the small spot the best I could using moderate pressure and a very short wiggle motion. The spot itself came out flat and I was happy with that. What I didn't notice was the removal of a layer of factory clear coat above the spot. It isn't much, but to the naked eye it looks like a dull spot about 1/4" x 1/4". I didn't think the curvature where the damage was located would be a factor to be concerned with just compounding an area smaller than a pencil eraser. Live and learn and call the body shop! Next one will be Doctor Colorchip!!!
Click to expand...

On what part of the car?
 
Above and foreword of the filler cap above the body line on top of the quarter panel where the rear window D pillar meets the quarter panel.
 
Sounds like an edge... (Could be wrong without pictures, or especially in person)

I'll let others chime in

Art
 
Time to follow up now with the 'polishing' steps.

I'm thinking you have may only marred that area.

Bill
 
I looked at it with a 5x magnifying glass. You can definitely see where the clear coat was taken off. Looks like a bird drop etching down into the paint. At first I thought I could just polish it out, but that only made the area bigger. Then I looked at it very closely with the glass and thought shi----------------!!!!
 
You should post pictures because I am working blind here.

Feel Free to chime in (others)


Art
 
Here is a better picture. Notice a small white spot is showing where I had applied the color and clear coat touch-up and the abraded clear coat above the white spot.
 
You tried a lot of steps if compound didn't work, just let it be. (Who knows how much CC you already removed with the compound)

Burning through the paint is a horrible feeling, that and also costly to repair.

If it keeps on bugging you, go buy a panel from a junkyard and work/practice on that. You can even attempt to replicate it. Gouge the paint then buy touch up and wet sand and buff away.

You don't want to practice on your car.
 
Update. Well I went to a body shop and they recommend after fixing the spot to clear the whole quarter panel and on up to the roof where the drip rail is. Claim is a spot repair only will not hold up to uv exposure over time. Is this really necessary? Including the original flaw the entire repair area is maybe 1/4" x 1/4". I hate to think about wet sanding and painting this big of an area for this little spot. What would you do? Thanks!
 
I would let the body shop repair and clear the whole quarter panel.

If you're going to wet sand request they add a few extra coats of clear coat, so when you can sand without going thru the clear coat.
 
Update
Well I had the body shop do a spot repair and blend in the basecoat and clear coat. The clear was blended in about 3/4 of the way up the sail panel and forward and rearward about 12 inches from the repaired spot on top of the quarter panel above the natural crease line in the quarter above the fuel cap. it was either that or remove the rear stationary quarter glass, rear bumper, roof drip rail, RT stripe, and clear the whole quarter, sail panel and the roof up to the middle of the drip rail and then down the roof up to and including the outside of the "a" pillar along the windshield down to the hood. The thought of all that for such a small spot made me cringe! Anyway the painter did a good job and the paint work is exceptional! My only concern now is how long to wait to compound out, by hand, the buffer marks and light scratches. You cannot see any imperfections unless in direct sun or fluorescent light. Should I wait 30 days or so? Or should I ask the paint shop? I know the clear blend area will be the touchy part. The body shop's only concern was the spot repair being damaged by UV light and very visible in a few years. Wouldn't keeping a good coat of something like Optimum wax prevent UV damage? I'll post a picture when my son in law comes over, I'm not very good with this digital stuff! LOL showing my age here! A big thank you to you all! This forum is a great tool I wish I had 40 years ago!
 
I would call and make sure they baked the paint. If they did bake it you should be able to use a less abrasive polish, be careful not build heat!
Light pressure only!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top