How do you get curves or tight areas with a D.A.?

DKenn08

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A smaller backing plate and pads? I'm just beginning and would like to see how the seasoned pros handle tight areas.

Thanks.
 
I use 4 inch LC pads for the tight areas.

Anything tighter than that, I'll just do by hand..
 
3 inch backing plate with megs 4 inch pads are fine
 
I use the Griot's 4" buffer works great and I use MF pads with it.
 
I am by no means a professional but use 4" pads for this purpose, and if too small for the 4", then by hand
 
I've got a 3" BP with 3" and 4" pads... for areas such as under the door handle and what not - you've obviously got to polish by hand.
 
I too have the GG 3" and use an Optimum mf pad since the machine doesn't have the power of its big brother but its always had enough power to do what I need it to do.

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
GG6/ 3.5" LC Plate / 4" Megs Pad
image_zpsf56ce6fc.jpg


Yes thats a K&N DA...
 
I was wondering if I should tape off all the curves and bends around the body (hood, along the doors and bumpers) or will a DA prevent any burning? It's hard to find videos of someone working on panels with these textures; all I can seem to find are people working on small sections of hoods.

sentra-drive-ri-2_653.jpg


Thanks in advance.
 
A good rule of thumb is tape off anything you think might get damaged. Generally in the beginning you'll do a lot of taping. After you're more experienced it will be less, especially with a DA.
 
You don't need to tape body lines and curves . There are some rare exceptions to this but most cars you don't. It gets a little more complicated with rare cars and exotics that have sharp irregular lines. Mostly you need to tape around trim (plastic or painted). Some spoilers need to be taped so you don't burn an edge. Some door handles...

Just use common sense. If it looks fragile or really exposed to the edge of a pad, tape it.

DA polishers pose almost no risk of burning paint. Microfiber pads being a slight exception. They are more aggressive and the edges can be sharp
 
Alright, thanks for the tips. I was just worried, as the 2013 Sentra SR has weird body lines and curves all over the place.
 
I use the Mothers Red Powerball on my drill. Key is to make sure pad is properly primed and the speed is slow. A drill is like a rotary polisher (direct drive) and will burn through paint if too fast). You should expect lot of splatter as the surface that contacts the paint is relatively small.
 
I have a 6.5 Flex and a 4 porta-cable so I don't have to switch plates mid job. This is crucial for certain jobs like Jeeps which are the gift that keep on giving lol
 
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