How do you tell if wax is gone ?

When the pesky neighborhood cat that likes to lay on vehicles doesn't slide off anymore when it tries to get on your roof.
I think longevity depends on the product used and where you live. SoFlo sun is hard on most wax. I enjoy touching my paint so I usually recoat every 1-2 months.
 
fightnews said:
I know I agree. I'll never understand why people get upset about making a new thread? They act like internet cops telling people to use the search function. Then the same people get upset when someone searching an older thread bumps it with a question. Like the thread and information in it has an expiration date. These are strange people who feel they need to lash out online. Probably because they cant do it in real life
Click to expand...

A perfect example of irony.
 
Irony

a literary technique, originally used in Greek tragedy, by which the full significance of a character's words or actions are clear to the audience or reader although unknown to the character.
 
I personally use a product that is easy to use and cost effective so that I really never have to worry about it. I will seal my paint and then top it with Optimum Car Wax. Then every other wash or so just apply some more OCW since it only takes a few moments. Something is always there then.
 
Vue to a kill said:
I personally use a product that is easy to use and cost effective so that I really never have to worry about it. I will seal my paint and then top it with Optimum Car Wax. Then every other wash or so just apply some more OCW since it only takes a few moments. Something is always there then.
Click to expand...

Agreed!!! Really makes life soo much easier!

Tom
 
Wow...


Was just sent the link to this thread by one of our forum members.

The OP asked a great question and some of the responses I see posted left me disappointed. Our forum members are better than the normal riff-raff that infests forums or FB groups. Come on guys, take the higher road.


So just to be clear - there's no such thing as a dumb question. And believe it not, forum search engines while useful are also lacking in their ability to pinpoint specific topics. I rarely use the search engine on this forum because it pulls up a zillion threads and I don't have time to cyber sift through them to find what I'm looking for.

I tend to use Google and a few key words and usually my own name and often times then I can find what I'm looking for.


To the OP - I apologize for the some of the less-than-helpful replies you received. I did see this thread when posted but I've been buried in detailing cars, holding classes, writing articles and creating power points that my time is so limited.


Like a few have said, there is no definitive way to know when all the wax is gone or wore off and of course, wax will wear off some panels faster than others. What I always say is how long a wax or any sealing product lasts comes down to how you "touch" the paint. Wash a car with a brick and nothing will last very long. Use a clean soft wash mitt and a gentle washing action and you'll get the most life out of a wax or sealant or even coating.


I know in the past I've used the "Oil Change" analogy for waxing your car and the nutshell version goes like this,

In the same way we change the oil in our car's engine before the oil is so wore out that it causes damage to the engine, apply a fresh coat of wax before sooner than later.


I think I actually have an article on this topic somewhere, might be here on AGO or over on MOL, can't remember.



:)
 
ChrisT said:
Let me see if I can find it for you using the search function. ��
Click to expand...


Let me know how you do.... :)


I just typed the below into Google,

oil change analogy Car Wax mike Phillips


And here's the top hit...

Is there a benefit to machine applying a wax or sealant versus applying by hand?


In the first post, scroll down till you find red text...


Mike Phillips said:
Kind of like an oil change.


We all change the oil in our car's motor BEFORE the oils is completely spent and no longer lubrication so we don't blow up our engine.

In the same analogy, we should re-wax our cars BEFORE all the last coat of wax has completely worn off and our paint suffers attack and deterioration.


A re-paint is incredibly expensive. Regularly applying a coat of wax, even an expensive wax compared to a re-paint is incredibly cheap.
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Couldn't find anything on MOL using a few key words and the advanced search feature on Google. But I know I've typed about the oil change analogy a few times in my life.


It's all good...


:dblthumb2:
 
Mike Phillips said:
just to be clear - there's no such thing as a dumb question.
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I agree. Plus it allows new members a chance to get their feet wet and join in on the posting + how can we deny a new forum member who’s obviously a car guy the chance to express him/herself and ask questions or simply add to the discussion.

The following post by glfnaz explains it perfectly. New methods, new tips & tricks come along all the time..

glfnaz said:
I think it was a fair question for one reason: often times guys post new responses, based upon experience, that I never had heard of before. I learn new solutions here all the time from folks that 'think out of the box'.
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Just to throw some gasoline on the fire with this debate consider this. It been repeated over and over that that it is the surfactants in the strong soaps that is masking the beading and that the sealant is still there, just need the surfactants removed.

Well I have learned through trial and error that Carpro Reset has the ability to kill your wax/sealant LSP's. I like Reset and using it on uncoated cars. I mix it at half dilution to prevent it from killing the LSP. Given that Reset does not use surfactants and is supposed to leave nothing behind, if I washed the car at double the dilution rate and it appears that it killed the LSP. Are all you nay-sayers still going to tell me that I can't strip with a strong wash and it is still there being masked by the surfactants?

Sorry, it just irritates me when people try to make the process of trying to strip off a LSP using a strong wash sound like it is a waste of effort. At the very least I am thoroughly degreasing the car exterior that a regular shampoo wash is not capable of.
 
DBAILEY said:
Just to throw some gasoline on the fire
with this debate consider this.

It been repeated over and over that that
it is the surfactants in the strong soaps
that is masking the beading and that the
sealant is still there, just need the
surfactants removed.

Well I have learned through trial and error
that Carpro Reset has the ability to kill your
wax/sealant LSP's. I like Reset and using it
on uncoated cars. I mix it at half dilution to
prevent it from killing the LSP.

Given that Reset does not use surfactants

and is supposed to leave nothing behind,
if I washed the car at double the dilution
rate and it appears that it killed the LSP.

Are all you nay-sayers still going to tell
me that I can't strip with a strong wash
and it is still there being masked by the
surfactants?

Sorry, it just irritates me when people try
to make the process of trying to strip off
a LSP using a strong wash sound like it is
a waste of effort. At the very least I am
thoroughly degreasing the car exterior that
a regular shampoo wash is not capable of.
Click to expand...
•If you are saying that Reset, which CarPro
states: ‘utilizes “Intelligent pH Surfactants”’—
i.e. surfactants that feature the strength of an
alkaline cleaner, while remaining pH-neutral
in solution—are not actually bona fide surfactants...

-then I have to disagree.


Bob
 
Btw, I Never bother with so called toppers because I know for a fact that all they do is degrade and remove the superior base layer of lsp I initially layed down.

P.s. WGU Rinseless Wash doesn’t qualify as a topper. I use it and it works fine. [meaning it won’t alter lsp]


Just my 2 cents...[/QUOTE]

I always use a quick spray wax or detailing spray after I wash my car. Are you telling me this is removing the nice layer of wax I put on my car the previous wash?
In the summer time when I am using my car more often, I apply a new layer of wax every month or so. Is this too much?
So between wax applications, my car may get washed and sprayed with a "topper" four or five times. I hate to think I am removing wax every time I do this.
 
Here's the thing, a lot of things will absolutely kill a natural carnauba wax. However, when it comes to synthetic polymer/acrylic based sealants, nothing short of a polisher or a paint cleanser will get rid of it.
It's science, natural waxes leave a layer of wax in carrier oil on the paint, it's why natural wax attracts dust more than synthetic or coatings. Something that will remove oil or wax will remove the wax as well. But if it's polymer, you're gonna have to use wheel acid basically if you want to get rid of it without polishing and that is highly not recommended.
 
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