How much are you guys charging for Cquartz/Opti-coat or any other super sealants?

Perfections said:
I was trying to address the original question, I'm sorry if you think im addressing you, but I am going to agree by the time I prep sol the exterior of a vehicle and apply this coating it takes me longer then an hour and I don't want people reading this thread to "think" you don't need to properly prep the surface before applying this kind of product. After reading some of your statements you are correct this is a very easy product to apply, but the steps leading up to that application need to be followed correctly and if your able to do that in an hour I commend you :)
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I see, please accept my apologies for misunderstanding you. I agree that everyone should be away how clean the surface much be for these systems to bond properly. Again, and most may think it's overkill, I prep a surface like that for any LSP I'm putting down. So I wouldn't count that in the hour it takes to apply. In that hour I would count applying it, and leveling/buffing it.
 
[video=youtube_share;qmPmIJyi0sc&feature=related] - ‪How To Rick Roll Somebody‬‏[/video]
 
Flash Gordon said:
Buck Showalter is doing a helluva great job there :props:
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Yeah, we win a lot of games people say we will lose, but then lose the games we should win. Nothing like beating some of the first place teams and still being in last place...LOL
 
Flannigan said:
I'm assuming this is sarcastic, if not my apologies. When I do a full detail I remove the wheels to clean and seal the barrels so that isn't any additional work for me when applying OC. Also when I apply a coating, polish, or wax I always have the doors/hood/trunk open to make sure that even inch of paint is addressed. There is no point in polishing a door but leaving the last 1/8 inch untouched b/c you were too lazy to open the door. So yes, I do all of that when I apply my coatings. I don't see how it's any different than apply a wax by hand. You apply it, and then take care of any high spots, just like you would apply a wax and then buff it off after it hazes. Now obviously it takes longer than a wax since you need to work on a much smaller section at a time, however it shouldn't be taking you hours to do this. If it does that is fine, however it doesn't HAVE to take you that long to do it.

.
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Actually it wasn't sarcasm. It was a genteel way of asking you to tell us exactly how thorough your process actually is. You say it can be done right in an hour, and David Fermani says it can't be done. Maybe he does more work than you and you do less, or maybe not. I don't know. We all assume that we agree on the definition of "doing it right", but we might actually all have slightly different interpretations of that and we all assume we share the same understanding.
Different human beings are capable of different things. There isa guy who can fire a single shot revolverand hit three different targets, all 15 feet apart and hit every time, and do so in a fraction of a second, and it sounds like only one bullet was fired. It is so impressive that I think it must be seen to be believed. I saw it shown on a cable documentary and I was blown away by it. You see all these movies with really impressive scenes involving one guy shooting 3 guys in 3-4 seconds, but then there is this guy, who if confronted with 3 attackers, could shoot them all and have his gun re-holstered before they could even draw their weapons. Some people really are that much better at what they do than almost everyone.
 
Blackthornone said:
Actually it wasn't sarcasm. It was a genteel way of asking you to tell us exactly how thorough your process actually is. You say it can be done right in an hour, and David Fermani says it can't be done. Maybe he does more work than you and you do less, or maybe not. I don't know. We all assume that we agree on the definition of "doing it right", but we might actually all have slightly different interpretations of that and we all assume we share the same understanding.
Different human beings are capable of different things. There isa guy who can fire a single shot revolverand hit three different targets, all 15 feet apart and hit every time, and do so in a fraction of a second, and it sounds like only one bullet was fired. It is so impressive that I think it must be seen to be believed. I saw it shown on a cable documentary and I was blown away by it. You see all these movies with really impressive scenes involving one guy shooting 3 guys in 3-4 seconds, but then there is this guy, who if confronted with 3 attackers, could shoot them all and have his gun re-holstered before they could even draw their weapons. Some people really are that much better at what they do than almost everyone.
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I see, I wasn't sure since you can't tell tone while reading words on a forum. Again, sorry that I took it to be sarcasm. I think the main difference is that most people are adding the wipe down time to the time it takes them to apply the coating. I don't since I do the same wipe down before any LSP I apply. Again it my be overkill, but i'd rather be safe than sorry.
 
Flannigan said:
I see, I wasn't sure since you can't tell tone while reading words on a forum. Again, sorry that I took it to be sarcasm. I think the main difference is that most people are adding the wipe down time to the time it takes them to apply the coating. I don't since I do the same wipe down before any LSP I apply. Again it my be overkill, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.
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Wow.....sorry if my comment started all this.

I'd like to add that I wasn't saying it can't be done, just that I'd like to so a process that gets it done so efficiently. I've done about 18 vehicels with OC now and I'd love to get my application time down.

I am including the extra prep in my application time, as that is NOT something that is always done before applying my regular LSP. It's done with OC simply because that's what the manufacture suggests doing. Not all LSP's require the paint to be stripped. If it's not suggest by the manufacture I simply give the cars a good wash/foam bath with CGCW mixed at a paint prep ratio, which requires less time than the OC prep.

Taken from MOL written by one of their chemists....
A wax, (natural or synthetic), is a substance that when applied to a surface will not adhere properly on its own. Thus, it is necessary to add specialized miscible oils to allow the waxy material to spread and adhere evenly to the surface. These oils along with polymers are responsible for improving the functionality of the wax protection, appearance, adherence and the overall application.

This means the addition of any Meguiar's polishes prior to the wax application will not only enhance the paint finish, but also aid in the appearance, adherence and overall lasting ability of the wax which is applied over the top of it.
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Besides, I strongly dislike the idea of wiping the cars down with IPA or similar solvent to prep the paint for LSP. I'll do it if needed (checking work/test spot), but I really dislike the idea of it and would much rather go over the paint with a pre-wax cleaner if anything.

OC also requires each panel to be closely inspected to ensure there are no high spots. I apply it to a panel, level off the high spots with a MF towel and then inspect it closely with the Brinkmann before moving on. With a wax it's on and off in about 30 min.



Cheers,
Rasky
 
RaskyR1 said:
Wow.....sorry if my comment started all this.

I'd like to add that I wasn't saying it can't be done, just that I'd like to so a process that gets it done so efficiently. I've done about 18 vehicels with OC now and I'd love to get my application time down.

I am including the extra prep in my application time, as that is NOT something that is always done before applying my regular LSP. It's done with OC simply because that's what the manufacture suggests doing. Not all LSP's require the paint to be stripped. If it's not suggest by the manufacture I simply give the cars a good wash/foam bath with CGCW mixed at a paint prep ratio, which requires less time than the OC prep.

Taken from MOL written by one of their chemists....




Besides, I strongly dislike the idea of wiping the cars down with IPA or similar solvent to prep the paint for LSP. I'll do it if needed (checking work/test spot), but I really dislike the idea of it and would much rather go over the paint with a pre-wax cleaner if anything.

OC also requires each panel to be closely inspected to ensure there are no high spots. I apply it to a panel, level off the high spots with a MF towel and then inspect it closely with the Brinkmann before moving on. With a wax it's on and off in about 30 min.



Cheers,
Rasky
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No Rasky, you didn't bring on any of this. You may have a differing opinion than me, but you are a professional and don't take things to the level of insulting. I have followed your work for a long time and know that you know what you are doing.

As for the prep, it's something I choose to do for piece of mind. I haven't even run into any issues when doing it, so I will keep doing it for now. Thanks!
 
Ha ha...


RaskyR1 said:
Taken from MOL written by one of their chemists....
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A wax, (natural or synthetic), is a substance that when applied to a surface will not adhere properly on its own. Thus, it is necessary to add specialized miscible oils to allow the waxy material to spread and adhere evenly to the surface. These oils along with polymers are responsible for improving the functionality of the wax protection, appearance, adherence and the overall application.

This means the addition of any Meguiar's polishes prior to the wax application will not only enhance the paint finish, but also aid in the appearance, adherence and overall lasting ability of the wax which is applied over the top of it.
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I typed that up and posted the above after an in-depth discussion with one of the Meguiar's chemists back in probably 2004 or 2005 during the NXT vs Zaino Wax Wars as it related to getting a wax or paint sealant to bond to paint.

Here's the specific thread,

Do Glazes/Fillers affect the bonding of NXT?


I also included it here in this article,

Miscible and Immiscible - Wax and Paint Sealant Bonding


I just applied Cquartz out in the studio and before I did so I wiped the paint down with a 20% solution of IPA to water according to post #7 in the below thread.

How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results


It's important to follow the manufactures recommendations for prepping the paint surface before applying their products as they know their products best.



:xyxthumbs:
 
RaskyR1 said:
Besides, I strongly dislike the idea of wiping the cars down with IPA or similar solvent to prep the paint for LSP. I'll do it if needed (checking work/test spot), but I really dislike the idea of it and would much rather go over the paint with a pre-wax cleaner if anything.

Cheers,
Rasky
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I agree...

IPA is a liquid but that doesn't automatically mean it's a great lubricant. When wiping perfectly polished black paint with IPA as carefully as I could, I could still see micro-marring that wasn't present before wiping.

Here's the thing about that, it's easy to see micro-marring or towel-marring on a solid black finish, it just gets harder and harder to see as paint colors become lighter and lighter and especially light metallics.

So if you wipe down perfectly polished paint using something like IPA, just because you don't see micro-marring doesn't mean it isn't taking place.

It also means no matter what color of paint you're wiping, if you're truly about doing professional quality work, then it's probably best to use your best microfibers and highest skill level for the pre-application wipe of any coating.

I'm somewhat in the camp of a better approach would be to re-wash the car super carefully using a detergent wash and a new, authentic sheepskin wash mitt and then blotting the paint dry if you really want perfects.

When I say wash the car I don't mean scrubbing the paint.

In context, for a finish that has just been polished, if the goal is to remove any residual polishing oils or carrying agents from the previously applied product, then all you need to do is make a few light and gentle passes over each square inch of the paint, not run the mitt over and over the same section of paint.

There's a difference.

I pointed this out in a car wash video Richard Lin and I made back in 2006 that's still floating around on YouTube.

Diluting full strength IPA with water does make it so it's not so hot to the paint and in my opinion improves it's wipe-ability.

Also, I talked the Dr. David Ghodoussi about this and he told me that if you're finishing out with his polishes that his coatings are compatible with the carrying agents in his compounds and polishes but it wouldn't hurt to gently wipe the paint down with a water-dampened, soft microfiber just to ensure a clean surface.


:)
 
Flannigan said:
No Rasky, you didn't bring on any of this. You may have a differing opinion than me, but you are a professional and don't take things to the level of insulting. I have followed your work for a long time and know that you know what you are doing.
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I would agree with that statement. I've been reading Chad's posts to various detailing discussion forums since he started posting and you can tell his professional character by his posting style.

I've also had the good pleasure to meet Chad a few times in my life and he's the same courteous and professional in person as is his online personality.

It's always a pleasure discussing detailing topics with Chad.


:dblthumb2:
 
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