How to prevent Micromarring while removing polishing residue

WRXINXS

WRXINXS

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I have a subaru with really soft paint. I polished with M205 and the paint is awesome with some slight micromarring from residue removal and Griots Garage Pre-Wax cleanser wipedown.

Is there a way to do the residue buff off and wipedown without instilling swirls on super soft subaru paint?

I am using soft clean COBRA towels fluffy nap side.

Drew
 
Subscribed. I'll likely have the same problem polishing out my Acura this spring.
 
I've had this issue too. I find using a detail spray or waterless wash will help a lot. However, I've also found if I use the right amount of polish and work it the right amount of time, removal is a breeze.

For me, when polish is hard to remove it means I've used too much. I've tried Eraser, but that has little to no line to it, that didn't help.

Their is an excellent product out there available at some auto parts stores called Rustoleum Wax and Grease remover. To me, this is the holy grail of polish removal. It removes all polish/fillers/glaze and has as much lube to it as regular car wash soap. It's really great at what your describing. It's a liquid like water, but has a ton of lube and cleaning power. Obviously, its safe for paint.
 
I'll have to look for that Rustoleum product. I get stressed out (scared of scratching) every time I have stubborn polish to remove.
 
Sounds like the same issue you were having with xmt360. You said you weren't able to wipe that off either. If I recall correctly some areas where xmt360 was used turned out to be awesome as well.

Do these marks appear after removing remaining product (either product), or do they only appear after wiping with the Griot's Pre-wax Cleanser?

If you're going to stick with the Meguiar's M205 why not consider skipping the pre-wax cleaner and go straight to a Meguiar's LSP in the Mirror Glaze line. There's something to be said for products that are made to work together. Of course, this won't fix the issues you're having if the marring occurs when you're removing the M205.

You could take one micro-fiber cloth and wet it with water, then ring it out. Use the damp cloth to wipe off the m205, then buff with a soft, clean micro-fiber and see what happens. Note that I said to use water, unless you have a Meguiar's quick detailer that's synergistically compatible. Shouldn't really matter what you use, but water or a compatiable product can serve as a control to figure out what's going on.

It's important to find out if the marring occurs before wiping off M205, or after the use of the Griot's product as some chemicals remove oils, or clean the surface well of oils and sometimes this can cause the paint to feel grabby in my experience. Your micro-fiber tends to drag instead of wipe across the surface smoothly. In the case of dragging on soft paint...well, marring can occur from stripping the paint totally clean.

I'm still puzzled as to why you've only had issues on some areas of the paint, both with xmt360 and with M205, and not see the problem all over the entire car/truck. Stands to reason why I'd inquire about when the problem occurs, before or after the Griot's product use.

Things that make you go, hmmmmmmnnnnnn.....
 
Hoyt,

Thanks for the help with the XMT360. I did decide to go with the M205 though afterall. I figured I would remove most of the swirls instead of filling them. I will be using XMT360 on my Dad's daily driver and I did find out what I was doing wrong with it.

Turns out, that I dry buffed the car afterall. I felt confident I could remove the dry buff hazing with XMT360 and a properly primed pad but decided to just use 205 for some more serious swirl removal.

I feel very confident in using the XMT360 when I do my dads car because it was not a product problem. It was user error on my part.

When I say remove residue from the 205 I am talking about a different thing than the dry buffing hazing I got yesterday. Today with 205 and a properly primed pad, I am able to totally remove all residue and it leaves me with a flawless fininsh with no "scuffs" even under direct lighting/sunlight.

But, what I am talking about now is that while gently buffing off the 205 residue and applying griots prewax cleaner the towel gets grabby and I leave very very very fine micro marring that are barely visable even under the sun.

So, I was just looking for a solution to that issue.

Thank you so much for the XMT360 and general polishing help. I feel like I kinda let you down going with 205 but I decided I needed more defect removal power. Plus with your help, I figured out what I did wrong with the 360 so I feel good about using it next time.


Drew
 
Hi

I detailed a Java Black Subaru a few weekends ago and really struggled with the soft paint, in that even trying to remove polish after buffing out a section caused marring.

Eventually what worked was soaking a Chinchilla MF Towel in a solution of ONR. I then wrung out most of the solution and gently wiped down the area I had been polishing.

Not sure if the Menzerna SF4000 I was using is water based or not but I definitely found that damp to wet'ish MF towels soaked in some ONR worked a lot better for me than anything else.

A link to said detail for more info if you choose
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/60312-java-black-pearl-subaru-impreza-wrx-detailed-lawrence.html
 
Not much you can do with towel marring, Drew. You're dealing with seriously soft paint.
 
ive been removing polishing residue with a ONR at wash dilution on a wet/damp microfibre with no issues. i hade the same marring/scratching on my wifes highlander...then i used this technique, no more issues.

you could also use it at QD strength, but i was advised that the wash dilution was fine and it was...
 
I use Menzerna Top Inspection all the time with out marring the paint during polish wipe down. The only thing I can say is maybe its the towels people are using. Cause I never have issues with marring when I wipe down a panel during polishing.
Todd
 
Will try that ONR trick. BTW do you have to remove the polishing oils if you are going from M205 to Meguiars synthetic sealant. They are in the same family so I dont know.
 
WRXINXS said:
Will try that ONR trick. BTW do you have to remove the polishing oils if you are going from M205 to Meguiars synthetic sealant. They are in the same family so I dont know.
Click to expand...
Yes the paint has to be free of any oils for the sealant to bond to the paint. ONR is not a striping was so it won't take all the polish residue off. Thats why people use IPA and Top inspection.
 
If it was me and its that difficult to "remove polishing oils" I would just skip it. Why jack up perfect paint, it it could lead to issues? The thing is, the idea that sealants need "perfectly clean paint" or they won't bond may be over thought.

Many lines including Poor Boys, BF, Wolfgang, and Chemical Guys all make glazes/pre wax cleaners with a glaze component that can be used prior to their sealants.

I usually wipe the panel down with Eraser or the Rustoleum product more to check my work than to remove any "oils". If its becoming an issue and your inducing marring just go to a sealant - or, possibly re-wash the vehicle when done polishing. The Rustoleum stuff is very good though.

The last thing you want to do is end up chasing your tail: polishing, getting towel marks, polishing out towel marks, etc... If its being that easy to scratch, just go to your LSP.

Another issue I've had with this that is similar is adhesive from masking tape, from taping off trim, getting caught in your towels during wipe off and causing light scratches. So, I usually skip tape unless there is no other alternative.
 
swanicyouth said:
If it was me and its that difficult to "remove polishing oils" I would just skip it. Why jack up perfect paint, it it could lead to issues? The thing is, the idea that sealants need "perfectly clean paint" or they won't bond may be over thought.

Many lines including Poor Boys, BF, Wolfgang, and Chemical Guys all make glazes/pre wax cleaners with a glaze component that can be used prior to their sealants.

I usually wipe the panel down with Eraser or the Rustoleum product more to check my work than to remove any "oils". If its becoming an issue and your inducing marring just go to a sealant - or, possibly re-wash the vehicle when done polishing. The Rustoleum stuff is very good though.

The last thing you want to do is end up chasing your tail: polishing, getting towel marks, polishing out towel marks, etc... If its being that easy to scratch, just go to your LSP.

Another issue I've had with this that is similar is adhesive from masking tape, from taping off trim, getting caught in your towels during wipe off and causing light scratches. So, I usually skip tape unless there is no other alternative.
Click to expand...
If the paint is that soft, you're going to get scratches removing your LSP as well. It's a lose-lose situation. :dunno:
 
swanicyouth said:
If it was me and its that difficult to "remove polishing oils" I would just skip it. Why jack up perfect paint, it it could lead to issues? The thing is, the idea that sealants need "perfectly clean paint" or they won't bond may be over thought.

Many lines including Poor Boys, BF, Wolfgang, and Chemical Guys all make glazes/pre wax cleaners with a glaze component that can be used prior to their sealants.

I usually wipe the panel down with Eraser or the Rustoleum product more to check my work than to remove any "oils". If its becoming an issue and your inducing marring just go to a sealant - or, possibly re-wash the vehicle when done polishing. The Rustoleum stuff is very good though.

The last thing you want to do is end up chasing your tail: polishing, getting towel marks, polishing out towel marks, etc... If its being that easy to scratch, just go to your LSP.

Another issue I've had with this that is similar is adhesive from masking tape, from taping off trim, getting caught in your towels during wipe off and causing light scratches. So, I usually skip tape unless there is no other alternative.
Click to expand...

:iagree: The fewer times you touch it, the fewer blemishes.
 
FivePoint.0 said:
If the paint is that soft, you're going to get scratches removing your LSP as well. It's a lose-lose situation. :dunno:
Click to expand...


If that's the case I would lean toward suggesting something like Permanon or CarPro Hydr02

 
If your polish residue is very hard to remove, I find that adding a little more product to your pad and running it a couple times pretty fast over the old polish will make it very easy to remove.

That's how I remove M105 residue almost all the time. Work the M105 in as you normally would to achieve your finish. After that, put a drop or two extra and just run it over the area you just did going much faster. Wipe away with a towel and bam, it's all gone with little to no pressure.
 
swanicyouth said:
I've had this issue too. I find using a detail spray or waterless wash will help a lot. However, I've also found if I use the right amount of polish and work it the right amount of time, removal is a breeze.

For me, when polish is hard to remove it means I've used too much. I've tried Eraser, but that has little to no line to it, that didn't help.

Their is an excellent product out there available at some auto parts stores called Rustoleum Wax and Grease remover. To me, this is the holy grail of polish removal. It removes all polish/fillers/glaze and has as much lube to it as regular car wash soap. It's really great at what your describing. It's a liquid like water, but has a ton of lube and cleaning power. Obviously, its safe for paint.
Click to expand...

You should try Menzerna Top Inspection
 
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