How to prevent Micromarring while removing polishing residue

Less grabby that Griots Pre-Wax? I found it grabby and hard to dry off.
I found top inspection to be grabby as well. Carpro eraser isn't quite as bad, but it's not like wiping off a quick detailer.
 
I found top inspection to be grabby as well. Carpro eraser isn't quite as bad, but it's not like wiping off a quick detailer.

Took some experimentation but I found using the right towel combination with Top Inspection was the key.

To apply Supreme 530 microfiber towel, buffing cloth, drying towel, detailing towel, 530 towel using the short nap side to spread the product.

And to remove, I'm using two cobra waffle towels.
The Guzzler Waffle Weave Microfiber Drying Towel by Cobra is a better drying towel than a chamois, or terry cloth towel. Microfiber makes the best

Using virtually no pressure, leaves the paint totally clean, LSP ready and with little to no micro marring. I had tried using the Gold Jr and others but this seems to be the best combination.
 
One trick I use on super soft paint is use a very light cleaner/wax for your last machine step, something that leaves the finish very slippery.

Meguiar's M20 Polymer Sealant works good for this. Use it with either a soft finishing pad or a soft polishing pad and let it fully dry before removing it.

Here's why this works... the wax or polymers, or whatever the blend of protection ingredients are act as a dry lubricant. So not only do the seal the surface, (the primary goal), they also act as a slippery barrier coating allowing your towel to move over the surfaces without marring the paint.

M21 would probably work to as it offers some very light cleaning ability. I've had very good luck with the M20 and I've probably used it for 20+ years. Back in the 80's, before the Internet and all these way cool products we have now days, my normal procedure was to use M20 topped with M16.

Always produced stellar results on both hard paints and soft paints.


:)
 
I had not heard that tip before. It is something to keep in mind.

To the OP, this is the stuff that worked for me:

epyqehys.jpg


I got the exact name wrong before. There isn't any VOCs or alcohols in it (best I can tell) or anything harsh, just slippery surfactant type cleaners.

It really takes difficult spent polishes right off with a lot of lube
 
Duragloss should be coming out with their Squeaky Clean paint cleaner soon (I hope) which would be another very good option. You can use it by machine or hand.


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To the OP, this is the stuff that worked for me:

epyqehys.jpg


I got the exact name wrong before. There isn't any VOCs or alcohols in it (best I can tell) or anything harsh, just slippery surfactant type cleaners.

It really takes difficult spent polishes right off with a lot of lube

Swanic do you find this product less grabby than other pre wax cleaners you have tried. I know the griots is grabbby for me and I have not tried eraser or top inspection and I guess meguiars has one too?
 
Duragloss should be coming out with their Squeaky Clean paint cleaner soon (I hope) which would be another very good option. You can use it by machine or hand.


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I'll look out for it. I like Duragloss!
 
If you're going to stick with the Meguiar's M205 why not consider skipping the pre-wax cleaner and go straight to a Meguiar's LSP in the Mirror Glaze line. There's something to be said for products that are made to work together. Of course, this won't fix the issues you're having if the marring occurs when you're removing the M205.

.....
It's important to find out if the marring occurs before wiping off M205, or after the use of the Griot's product as some chemicals remove oils....

Things that make you go, hmmmmmmnnnnnn.....

BINGO!:dblthumb2:

If the problem shows up AFTER wiping 205, then likely 205 was on/worked into the surface just a touch too long. Try doing 1 section pass and wipe. Clean towel, new spot, then followed by 2 and wipe... 3, etc.... might just find that wiping it off while still 'wet' is the answer. I know 105 is the epitomy of working too long and sticking like glue! :eek:

If it was me and its that difficult to "remove polishing oils" I would just skip it. Why jack up perfect paint, it it could lead to issues? The thing is, the idea that sealants need "perfectly clean paint" or they won't bond may be over thought.

So, I usually skip tape unless there is no other alternative.

Yep, and wonder why so many, literally dozens and dozens of 'name brands/house brands' all have multi-step programs that are there to "assure you get the best results". Say rupes anyone? (Talk about having to use ONE line of product from start to finish.) Well not that you HAVE to but they sure WANT you to!

I only use tape (on painted surfaces) when compounding just for that reason. When moving to a polish it just doesn't make sense to leave them covered as they always cause problems. (Still need to keep plastic, trim and such covered till the end btw):rolleyes:
 
try wiping it off wet. also subaru's can have sticky paint that once heated up a bit with the polisher become even more of an issue.

anyway megs sealant has cleaners in it, so I wouldn't worry about wiping the car down with a solvent or ipa type product.

also, i gotta ask this... are you sure M205 is finishing out properly without leaving micromarring ? if your seeing haze (micromarring), thats not from your towel, its from the product. M205 is not the finest cut polish and on soft paints can cause a lot of haze. I only use M205 with full trust about it finishing ability on hard paints like BMW or Audi. I dont have full trust in 205 like I would with Menzerna sf4000. 205 isnt the most versatile finishing polish imo. if you like meg's, for a less aggressive product I think they recommend there DAT product , #09 (i think).
 
try wiping it off wet. also subaru's can have sticky paint that once heated up a bit with the polisher become even more of an issue.

anyway megs sealant has cleaners in it, so I wouldn't worry about wiping the car down with a solvent or ipa type product.

also, i gotta ask this... are you sure M205 is finishing out properly without leaving micromarring ? if your seeing haze (micromarring), thats not from your towel, its from the product. M205 is not the finest cut polish and on soft paints can cause a lot of haze. I only use M205 with full trust about it finishing ability on hard paints like BMW or Audi. I dont have full trust in 205 like I would with Menzerna sf4000. 205 isnt the most versatile finishing polish imo. if you like meg's, for a less aggressive product I think they recommend there DAT product , #09 (i think).

Interesting. I really did not experiment to see if the 205 or wipedown was causing the issue. It might be hard to find out though because you have to wipe off the residue to inspect the results and if there is mircromarring you will not know if it is from the polish not finishing down enough of wiping off the abrasive polish.

Drew
 
I've been using Megs 105 for the first time these past couple days and it's a huge PITA to get off. I have to use something to help remove it or it wont budge. I tried optimum QD first but it smeared it too much and then required too much buffing to get rid of itself. So I've been using about a 4 to 1 mix of IPA and water. That strips the polish off better/faster and then dries more easily too.












.
 
I've been using Megs 105 for the first time these past couple days and it's a huge PITA to get off. I have to use something to help remove it or it wont budge. I tried optimum QD first but it smeared it too much and then required too much buffing to get rid of itself. So I've been using about a 4 to 1 mix of IPA and water. That strips the polish off better/faster and then dries more easily too.
Try adding more product, work it a bit and stop while it's still wet enough to wipe clean. It may then wipe clean. I've also worked it until it disappears with success. I've also had it gum up on me. So yes, M105 can certainly be finicky. That is something many of us agree on, but try different things. You only stand to learn if a particular process worked or not...that's still learning and valuable experience.
 
Interesting. I really did not experiment to see if the 205 or wipedown was causing the issue. It might be hard to find out though because you have to wipe off the residue to inspect the results and if there is mircromarring you will not know if it is from the polish not finishing down enough of wiping off the abrasive polish.

Drew

Its actually easy to tell. aggressive polishing will leave uniform haze. Toweling marks wont be uniform and will be in the direction that you are wiping.
 
Swanic do you find this product less grabby than other pre wax cleaners you have tried. I know the griots is grabbby for me and I have not tried eraser or top inspection and I guess meguiars has one too?

The Rustoleum Wax and Tar Remover isn't grabby at all. It's soap based. It's slippery like a "soap", but it flashes off like IPA (eventually). I discovered it by accident. I'm not sure if it leaves "something behind" - so it may not help for a coating.

But when you get in a jamb and have to remove a stubborn polish, nothing is like it.
 
The Rustoleum Wax and Tar Remover isn't grabby at all. It's soap based. It's slippery like a "soap", but it flashes off like IPA (eventually). I discovered it by accident. I'm not sure if it leaves "something behind" - so it may not help for a coating.

But when you get in a jamb and have to remove a stubborn polish, nothing is like it.

I've used it also, it's on clearance right now at Walmart for $5 a bottle. The instructions tell you to saturate cloth, wipe own, wait 4-6 minutes, then buff off. Never had a problem with it leaving residue.

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I've used it also, it's on clearance right now at Walmart for $5 a bottle. The instructions tell you to saturate cloth, wipe own, wait 4-6 minutes, then buff off. Never had a problem with it leaving residue.

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That's if your trying to strip the surface clean for paint. If you just use it in a spray bottle like Eraser or IPA it works awesome to remove sticky polishes.
 
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