Mike@ShineStruck
New member
- Apr 17, 2015
- 1,482
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I chose polymer paste wax for two reasons. Not sure my test would work with liquid wax/sealants...2 strangth should be similar to liquid sealant..and 3 no one really uses pure carnuba paste..majority use synthetic paste/liquidI was just wondering. And that kind of synthetic wax is hard to remove as a sealant is. A pure organic wax I think is esier to remove and if a lsp has been in the weather elements and the wear and tear of a time. It's easier to break down after that time. A quality lsp stands up good to most used chemicals in car cleaning. The outside elements is more harsh to them over time than a chemical resistant lsp. And the way and wash media products touching the paint also. The same with some surfactans that cloggs cause it's harder to rinse them away and some cheaper spray waxes and QD and car soap with waxes that alter the lsp water behavior very much so you think it has worn of.
Some cleaner wax has strong and alot of solvent in them and that is why they can clean up a paint really good. And with a da and abrasive from the pads and the abrasive in them. It would take a really strong lsp to stand up to it. The thing I wonder about is the residue from the old lsp have the possibility to interfear with the new lsp longevity and quality. And if it's worth it to a aio like 360 that has a long longevity to do a finish polish first to get the old lsp and road film of the paint first with a paint cleanser polish or a finish polish. The thing I will do is to clean the pad god between sets and switch pads when it's builds up residue on them. That's also why I think a chemical decon and claying as through as possible is benefit to the pads. But to get it all of I think almost impossible before the AIO. Then a paint cleanser polish can be of benefit if you have few pads at hand when AIO polish.
I remember pipuk thread..was good..that was the thread where his car turned pink right?