I own a rotary, do i need a DA???

I own a rotary and a DA and am seriously considering buying another DA and then possibly another rotary. I want two DA's so I can dedicate my PC to a 3" machine. Good excuse to buy the Griots DA! LOL. So yea, for me having both is in my mind a need. I apply almost all wax and sealants with my DA. I do most of my corrections using the DA. Just my thing.
 
From what I understand, there are some colors like certain blacks that are basically impossible to get perfect with a rotary regardless of your skill with it. For those types of paint, a Flex 3401 is an extremely useful and almost necessary tool to certain paints perfect. On the other hand, if you have great skill with a rotary, you can do almost anything and get phenomenal results with far less time than with a DA.
I would say get a Flex 3401 if you can afford it. I am extremely satisfied with mine. My only complaint about it is that it can't cut as fast as a rotary can.

Hmmm i wouldnt know what to say to that... I did a 3 step process
On black with only my rotary and it turned out great. I dont know how much better it would look if i had finished with a DA but it looked stunning with just having finished with a rotary! Look at the thread "2008 mustang 0% orange peel" so you can see the results i got with just my makita!
 
You have to find the right method with the right tools that works for you and different cars using a rotary.

Every car has a different paint a different method is needed and the right method for a rotary to accomplish it

Nothing is impossible in this life
 
Hmmm i wouldnt know what to say to that... I did a 3 step process
On black with only my rotary and it turned out great. I dont know how much better it would look if i had finished with a DA but it looked stunning with just having finished with a rotary! Look at the thread "2008 mustang 0% orange peel" so you can see the results i got with just my makita!

To be honest, I do not much experience with a rotary, but have always achieved perfect results, though have never worked on black. The blacks I was talking about are the really soft black paints. Other people who have much experience have said this about soft blacks. I know I have never had any swirls whatsoever from my Flex 3401, and that it will correct swirls left behind by a rotary. Based on the fact that rotaries can leave swirls and DA's do not, and that softer paint is more vulnerable to marring, I believe that it is possible that a Flex can leave behind a better finish than a rotary can, and noticeably so to the discerning eye on really soft blacks. Ok, with regard to your work on that 2008 Mustang, phenomenal work! Sorry I didn't praise it earlier. Awesome. However, I would remind you that you weren't buffing BLACK paint, you were buffing CLEAR COAT on a black base coat car, which is a huge difference. Single stage black paint is much softer than any clear coated black.
 
To be honest, I do not much experience with a rotary, but have always achieved perfect results, though have never worked on black. The blacks I was talking about are the really soft black paints. Other people who have much experience have said this about soft blacks. I know I have never had any swirls whatsoever from my Flex 3401, and that it will correct swirls left behind by a rotary. Based on the fact that rotaries can leave swirls and DA's do not, and that softer paint is more vulnerable to marring, I believe that it is possible that a Flex can leave behind a better finish than a rotary can, and noticeably so to the discerning eye on really soft blacks. Ok, with regard to your work on that 2008 Mustang, phenomenal work! Sorry I didn't praise it earlier. Awesome. However, I would remind you that you weren't buffing BLACK paint, you were buffing CLEAR COAT on a black base coat car, which is a huge difference. Single stage black paint is much softer than any clear coated black.
i know there is base over the clear, its actually PPG DBU ford black base and PPG 2021 Clear. i paint cars, i know whats up with these thing! but like i said, i have only been in this for a month and a half and having a finish like that with a rotary to me is a big accomplishment. maybe later down the road ill get a DA but for now, rotary is my handy tool!
 
i know there is base over the clear, its actually PPG DBU ford black base and PPG 2021 Clear. i paint cars, i know whats up with these thing! but like i said, i have only been in this for a month and a half and having a finish like that with a rotary to me is a big accomplishment. maybe later down the road ill get a DA but for now, rotary is my handy tool!

You did great work! With your skill, you don't really NEED a DA to do what you do, and the rotary is faster.
 
You did great work! With your skill, you don't really NEED a DA to do what you do, and the rotary is faster.

Thanks! I appreciate the comments! But yea the rotary is faster, i did my uncles car witch had some major oxidation in like 2 days! I love rotarys!
 
I have a DA, but I can live without it. I pretty much only use it for applying lsps. Once you get in enough practice with the rotary you should be able to finish hologram free on almost all types of paints. In your job environment im pretty sure you are not getting paid to do complete corrections any way and the majority of customers out there only get 1 step's so there will still always be defects in the paint.
 
I have 2 DA's and 2 rotaries with thoughts of getting a 3rd. I have a Dynabrade rotary that has gobs of torque and is able to spin a 9 inch wool pad like it's not even there. Generally I only use this rotary for heavy cutting/ correction since it's just so damn heavy. I also have an old flex that I use for most of my light polishing and finishing. Now I want to pick up something cheap and light to just use with small pads.

As for DA's I have a griots and an original PC (I personally HATE the flex da, but thats just my opinion). My griots I use for finishing on really sticky paint, and doing one steps on really thin paint since I know I won't burn through it. My PC is pretty much relinquished to applying waxes and sealants now.

That being said I wouldn’t give up any of my tools since I use them all for different purposes.
 
Well I dont see them lol I love my dewalt lol works my fore arm muscle

I have a Makita and a Dewalt. ;)


yes, having a DA is a must IMO. having a rotary and DA is like having a flathead & phillips screwdriver, they both have there places and uses...

Agreed! :props:


I started using a rotary back around 1990 and it was all I used up until about 2005. Now I find myself using the D/A more than anything, but the rotary still has it's place

Rotary polishers are fast and effective but require a high amount of skill to finish down hologram free, and they also have a much higher risk factor. A D/A polisher removes the inexperience and high risk from the equation and delivers safe, swirl free results every-time. With new systems coming out like the Meguiar's MF system my rotary will continue to see less usage. Still, it's my go to tool for heavy correction and high end jobs that need to be jeweled to perfection.


Just my $.02


Rasky
 
I learned many years ago in the body shop environment, where a rotary is the only tool you'll see, and I'm very comfortable with one. Today's tools are much easier to use than the old single-speed 12 pound all-metal units of yesteryear. That being said, hanging out here has given me the desire for a R/O polisher. The light weight, flexibility and idiot-proof advancements in today's R/O units just seems like it will make life easier for a weekender like me. The rotary will always be handy for a situation when I need more muscle.

Bill
 
With new systems coming out like the Meguiar's MF system my rotary will continue to see less usage.

just think what the future might hold that may even out do that. you gotta love new and advanced technology...
 
I doubt it. There's a lot of Dewalt lovers out there.
dewalts are ok was my frist buffer. but they dont last and dont have a soft start. well if you pull softly on the triger lolskip the pc da and get the felx da or by my pc da and i will by the felx da lol
 
I have been using a dewalt for about 6 months now and love it for correcting lots of defects very quickly. I deal with lots of hunting rigs that are scratched from front to back and a rotary makes this job very easy and quick.

I am looking to pickup a D/A for two reasons. First if I have a car that needs very light correction I see no reason to hit it with a rotary and second on some black cars swirls can be a real pita at least with my skills.

I know some people will cringe when I say this but I got stuck yesterday with some bad wool pad swirls on a black truck that I just couldnt get 100% out. I fought it for hours with a rotary and every chemical/pad combo I had and never could get every last swirl/hologram out. So as a last ditch effort I put my lake country pad on my 3m DA sander and used some m205. I know the sander is not the polisher of choice but it did an incredible job on the light swirls and holograms I was fighting. Needless to say I am now strongly considering a D/A.
 
Let me see.....

I have 3 rotaries and 2 dual action polisher.

I have a 2 speed Craftsman Commercial rotary, circa 1968, that has more miles on it than the space shuttle. While it still works well it's heavy and has 2 speeds; 1500rpm and 3000rpm. You might say it's enjoying retirement.....

Not Retired

Makita 9227 Rotary
Porter Cable 7424 Dual Action
Flex 3401 Dual Action
Flex PE14-2-150 Rotary

To answer your question, yes, you should have a dual action polisher.

When I started buffing and polishing back in the last century all we had was rotary sanders and polishers. Using a rotary is for the most part still second nature but I do like the dual action polishers especially the Flex 3401 with its forced rotation.

My rotaries handle more of the heavier correction and the dual action allow me to finish up a panel with absolutely no swirls, holograms, or micro-marring.
 
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