I think most of you are missing out on Optimum Power Cleans true potential...

i just got a gallon of it this week..I probably will only use it on things that my Megs APC+ isnt safe for. hope it was worth the 35bucks over the gallon of APC+ i still have left
 
If ya think about it, diluting it 3:1 is a pretty hefty difference compared to un-diluted. I've never thought of using any APC 10:1, but that's just me.


Shiny Lil Detlr said:
:iagree: That's pretty much exactly how I use OPC as well.
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:props:
 
rwright said:
I'm confused here. You state OPC is weak yet is good for greasy parts like under the hood? Talk about contradiction my friend. A great thing about OPC is that it's not a caustic cleaner.
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I know, blew my mind as well. I dont know the chemical make up, but its great for grease, not so great cleaning up the browning on tires for me.

I see OPT made it a stronger solution, they must have agreed with me!
 
I absolutely love this stuff. I am an instant fan of it. I have used it diluted and undiluted, however I don't think I diluted it correctly. I did three parts OPC and 1 part water. I'm thinking its the other way around...am I wrong? Either way it goes, I need a gallon of this stuff PRONTO.
 
alko said:
I absolutely love this stuff. I am an instant fan of it. I have used it diluted and undiluted, however I don't think I diluted it correctly. I did three parts OPC and 1 part water. I'm thinking its the other way around...am I wrong? Either way it goes, I need a gallon of this stuff PRONTO.
Click to expand...

I prefer OPC too (I have 4-5 APCs in my collection) as it has the broadest range of uses. I tried to save money by buying a gallon of APC+ for $15 instead of a gallon of OPC for $35. I can make a whole lot of diluted APC+ for $15; however APC+ mainly sits in my cabinet taking up space and I still need a gallon of OPC. :doh:

I asked Chris Thomas from Optimum to respond regarding how to dilute OPC.

From a chemist's standpoint, a 33% (v/v) solution would be described as a 1:3 dilution meaning 1 part in a total of 3 parts, or 1 part chemical solution plus 2 parts solvent (such as water). A 1:3 dilution does not mean 1 part to 3 parts from a chemist's standpoint.

For interests sake, a 1:1 dilution is the undiluted chemical in its initial concentration (100% v/v) alone. A 1:2 dilution is a 50% solution made from 1 part straight liquid chemical plus 1 part solvent.

I'm not sure what OPT really means by a 3:1 dilution:
A) 1 part OPC plus 3 parts water (25% (v/v))
B) 3 parts OPC plus 1 part water (75% (v/v))
C) 1 part OPC plus 2 parts water (33% (v/v))

If you diluted 3 parts OPC with 1 part water, you made a 75% (v/v) aqueous solution, which I don't think is what OPT intended as it would only offer a 25% increase in working volume.

If you dilute 1 part OPC plus 3 parts water you actually make a 1:4 dilution from a chemist's standpoint. Certainly a cost effective dilution if appropriate.

I may be making it up incorrectly but I have been using a 33% solution (1:3 dilution) with is 1 part OPC plus 2 parts water, which works pretty well on the interior and light grime. I will often start with 1:3 dilution then move to full strength if it doesn't work.

I tend to use it full strength for wheels, tires, engine bay, door jams, and the run off gutters around the trunk and roof line on some vehicles. I'll use it 1:3 on rubber moldings and window trim to remove oxidation from the rubber before treating it with a dressing.

Let's see what Chris says about the proper dilution method.
 
Kurt_s said:
I prefer OPC too (I have 4-5 APCs in my collection) as it has the broadest range of uses. I tried to save money by buying a gallon of APC+ for $15 instead of a gallon of OPC for $35. I can make a whole lot of diluted APC+ for $15; however APC+ mainly sits in my cabinet taking up space and I still need a gallon of OPC. :doh:

I asked Chris Thomas from Optimum to respond regarding how to dilute OPC.

From a chemist's standpoint, a 33% (v/v) solution would be described as a 1:3 dilution meaning 1 part in a total of 3 parts, or 1 part chemical solution plus 2 parts solvent (such as water). A 1:3 dilution does not mean 1 part to 3 parts from a chemist's standpoint.

For interests sake, a 1:1 dilution is the undiluted chemical in its initial concentration (100% v/v) alone. A 1:2 dilution is a 50% solution made from 1 part straight liquid chemical plus 1 part solvent.

I'm not sure what OPT really means by a 3:1 dilution:
A) 1 part OPC plus 3 parts water (25% (v/v))
B) 3 parts OPC plus 1 part water (75% (v/v))
C) 1 part OPC plus 2 parts water (33% (v/v))

If you diluted 3 parts OPC with 1 part water, you made a 75% (v/v) aqueous solution, which I don't think is what OPT intended as it would only offer a 25% increase in working volume.

If you dilute 1 part OPC plus 3 parts water you actually make a 1:4 dilution from a chemist's standpoint. Certainly a cost effective dilution if appropriate.

I may be making it up incorrectly but I have been using a 33% solution (1:3 dilution) with is 1 part OPC plus 2 parts water, which works pretty well on the interior and light grime. I will often start with 1:3 dilution then move to full strength if it doesn't work.

I tend to use it full strength for wheels, tires, engine bay, door jams, and the run off gutters around the trunk and roof line on some vehicles. I'll use it 1:3 on rubber moldings and window trim to remove oxidation from the rubber before treating it with a dressing.

Let's see what Chris says about the proper dilution method.
Click to expand...


We definately went to different schools. Lemme ask you how you make a 1:1 dilution then! One part OPC and zero parts water???????

Check this out and it may help you.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-charts-graphs/31925-dilution-ratios-32oz-bottles.html
 
Kurt_s said:
I prefer OPC too (I have 4-5 APCs in my collection) as it has the broadest range of uses. I tried to save money by buying a gallon of APC+ for $15 instead of a gallon of OPC for $35. I can make a whole lot of diluted APC+ for $15; however APC+ mainly sits in my cabinet taking up space and I still need a gallon of OPC. :doh:

I asked Chris Thomas from Optimum to respond regarding how to dilute OPC.

From a chemist's standpoint, a 33% (v/v) solution would be described as a 1:3 dilution meaning 1 part in a total of 3 parts, or 1 part chemical solution plus 2 parts solvent (such as water). A 1:3 dilution does not mean 1 part to 3 parts from a chemist's standpoint.

For interests sake, a 1:1 dilution is the undiluted chemical in its initial concentration (100% v/v) alone. A 1:2 dilution is a 50% solution made from 1 part straight liquid chemical plus 1 part solvent.

I'm not sure what OPT really means by a 3:1 dilution:
A) 1 part OPC plus 3 parts water (25% (v/v))
B) 3 parts OPC plus 1 part water (75% (v/v))
C) 1 part OPC plus 2 parts water (33% (v/v))

If you diluted 3 parts OPC with 1 part water, you made a 75% (v/v) aqueous solution, which I don't think is what OPT intended as it would only offer a 25% increase in working volume.

If you dilute 1 part OPC plus 3 parts water you actually make a 1:4 dilution from a chemist's standpoint. Certainly a cost effective dilution if appropriate.

I may be making it up incorrectly but I have been using a 33% solution (1:3 dilution) with is 1 part OPC plus 2 parts water, which works pretty well on the interior and light grime. I will often start with 1:3 dilution then move to full strength if it doesn't work.

I tend to use it full strength for wheels, tires, engine bay, door jams, and the run off gutters around the trunk and roof line on some vehicles. I'll use it 1:3 on rubber moldings and window trim to remove oxidation from the rubber before treating it with a dressing.

Let's see what Chris says about the proper dilution method.
Click to expand...

wow!!! Thanks for this...I think you lost me somewhere though.
 
The single unit is always the chemical 3:1(3 parts water for every 1 part OPC). For example: to make 32oz @ 3:1 you divide 32oz by 4 total parts (3+1) to determine that each part is 8oz. So your mixture will be 8oz OPC with 24oz of water.
 
R.I.F......nevermind Jim...I read the addition to your thread. Sigh...I need a drink.
 
Chris@Optimum said:
The single unit is always the chemical 3:1(3 parts water for every 1 part OPC). For example: to make 32oz @ 3:1 you divide 32oz by 4 total parts (3+1) to determine that each part is 8oz. So your mixture will be 8oz OPC with 24oz of water.
Click to expand...

awww dangit!!!! I diluted it wrong!!!
 
It does get a bit confusing. Some bottles have the dilution ratios right on them which is helpful.
 
Dr Oldz said:
It does get a bit confusing. Some bottles have the dilution ratios right on them which is helpful.
Click to expand...

After reading this thread I now know how to read the bottle lol!!!
 
Chris@Optimum said:
The single unit is always the chemical 3:1(3 parts water for every 1 part OPC). For example: to make 32oz @ 3:1 you divide 32oz by 4 total parts (3+1) to determine that each part is 8oz. So your mixture will be 8oz OPC with 24oz of water.
Click to expand...

Thanks Chris.

As a former chemist in the medical industry, a 1:3 dilution is 1 part chemical and 2 parts solvent for a total of 3 parts and a 33% final solution. We used the nomenclature to keep the math simple when making serial dilutions of working chemicals (see the example below). More than once we had to scrap an experiment because a tech made a buffer or solution incorrectly by reverting to ratio nomenclature.

A 1:1 dilution was actually no dilution at all (100% chemical)
A 1:2 dilution was 1 part chemical and 1 part solvent (50% chemical)
A 1:3 dilution was 1 part chemical and 2 parts solvent (33% chemical)
A 1:10 dilution was 1 part chemical and 9 parts solvent (10% chemical)
A 1:100 dilution was 1 part chemical and 99 parts solvent (1% chemical)
A 1:101 dilution was 1 part chemical and 100 parts solvent (0.09901% chemical)

Here's a teaching example from the Wellesley.edu website (google it)

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]Volume to Volume Dilution[/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]This type of dilutions describes the ratio of the solute to the final volume of the diluted solution. [/SIZE][/FONT]

[SIZE=-1][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]For example, to make a 1:10 dilution of a 1M NaCl solution, you would mix one "part" of the 1M solution with nine "parts" of solvent (probably water), for a total of ten "parts." Therefore, 1:10 dilution means 1 part + 9 parts of water (or other diluent).[/FONT][/SIZE]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
drops.gif
[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]For example: if you needed 10 mL of the 1:10 dilution, then you would mix 1mL of the 1M NaCl with 9mL of water.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=-1][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Or: if you needed 100mL of the 1:10 dilution, then you would mix 10mL of the 1M NaCl with 90mL of water.[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The final concentration of NaCl in both cases is 0.1M.[/FONT][/SIZE]

Nomenclature can be quite different between industries which is why I wasn't sure about Optimum's dilution terminology. Try googling dilution ratio and volume to volume dilutions. There really seems to be different schools out there. The way it's written, the 3:1 terminology refers to a mixture ratio, rather than a dilution and actually a 1:4 dilution from my chemistry training and clinical lab experience.

I use the scientific nomenclature that when making dilutions to use the chemical being diluted as the first number and the solvent being the second where the chemical is almost always added to the solvent to limit any reaction when mixed (think acid to water). The solvent's name is normally provided such as H2O, PBS or ethanol at the end as well.

I knew OPC was diluted in water but I just never believed that a 67% or 75% final OPC solution was correct. I used 33% (1:3 dilution) and now I finally learn that 25% v/v is the correct target. No worries, the 33% dilution works quite well.

It might be more clear to write 1 part OPC to 3 parts water for the directions, at least on the Optimum website which you probably can change easily. Just my two cents.
 
:eek: Holy crap! No one told me I had to learn math to do this detailing stuff.
 
Kurt,

You are confusing Dilution "factors" with Dilution "ratios". From Wikipedia:

"Dilution ratio

Ratios are often used for simple dilutions applied in chemistry and biology. A simple dilution is one in which a unit volume of a liquid material of interest is combined with an appropriate volume of a solvent liquid to achieve the desired concentration. The dilution factor is the total number of unit volumes in which your material will be dissolved. The diluted material must then be thoroughly mixed to achieve the true dilution. For example, a 1:5 dilution (verbalize as "1 to 5" dilution) entails combining 1 unit volume of solute (the material to be diluted) + 4 unit volumes (approximately) of the solvent to give 5 units of the total volume. (Some solutions and mixtures take up slightly less volume than their components.)

The dilution factor is frequently expressed using exponents: 1:5 would be 5e−1 (5−1 i.e. one-fifth:one); 1:100 would be 10e−2 (10−2 i.e. one hundredth:one), and so on.

There is often confusion between dilution ratio (1:n meaning 1 part solute to n parts solvent) and dilution factor (1:n+1) where the second number (n+1) represents the total volume of solute + solvent. In scientific and serial dilutions, the given ratio (or factor) often means the ratio to the final volume, not to just the solvent. The factors then can easily be multiplied to give an overall dilution factor.

In other areas of science such as pharmacy, and in non-scientific usage, a dilution is normally given as a plain ratio of solvent to solute."

The only clarification needed is that single unit is always the solute regardless of the side of the ration it is on. 1:3 or 3:1 either way will mean 1 part solute to 3 parts solvent as the dilution.
 
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