maximus20895
New member
- Apr 13, 2010
- 1,746
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No I don't care. I just thing if you move to a DA first it is the more "careful" choice.
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it's just that on my own car the XP wasn't just enough, couldn't get the intermediate swirls out.
No, it's not you Dwayne. But no worries, it's fine. I just feel the comments he's dishing out are towards me, but i could be wrong.![]()
How about you Mike..did you start with a DA?
If your talking about me, i'm not getting mad at anyone what so ever. I just feel that the DA is easier as far as machines go![]()
Sounds like your technique may fall into play here as the PC has been proven to get out imperfections in even the hardest paint leaving them smooth and swirl free.
why hello friends I think I am headed down the DA road (sorry rohnramirez) May dare to ask which one is the best bang for the buck? I would spend the $ on the flex if it is truly worth it but I am a weekend warrior who at best might do 5 cars for cash a year. or am I throwing good money on a name?? Or is it a pad thing as the better machine will offer better selections of pads to fit the needs of the jobs, I am purely talking out of my b*%t here because I don't have a clue about car polishing pads, though i am very familiar with micron sandpaper and solid surface counter tops as where i work we used to make solid surface counter tops, so I imagine the pads for the polishers along the same lines though not so dramatic. Or I may be way off base.
Learning to use and control a rotary buffer requires more practice and focus. I always recommend to people starting out with a rotary buffer to ONLY tackle a panel or a portion of a car at one time, a panel would be like the hood or a portion would be like the front clip.
Asking if the Flex is worth it is opening a can of worms. You will get plenty of "Flex is best" and a bunch of "Griots is the best for the money" and a few "PC is the most reliable" posts.
I don't see it that way at all, I think you're just reading into it too much
What Products do you like to use with your machine? I realize the machine is part of the battle but the machine probly is only as good as the product you apply with it. Like I had stated I have Minor Swirls and am interested in cleaning those up and really cleaning the finish and a machine applied sealer, closing with Carnuba for the real wet look.:xyxthumbs:True! I cannot stress how much this is a reliable tool. It is just that it doesn't work on mine. It's a 28-coat thick custom paint job (10coats polyurethane orange base, 9coats pearlescent green with gold flakes and 9 coats ultra gloss and extra hard diluted with extra slow drying thinner). It does work but you need 12-16 section passes per step to get what you want...that's just too long. So i found the rotary a more efficient tool on mine. That should clear things out.
No worries my friend. It is just my opinion, i am not forcing anyone to go for anything.."i just said "i'd go with a rotary."
I totally agree!!!
:iagree:
maybe..lol. Sorry if i found the below statement a bit offensive. And Cheers to everyone, and i apologize if it seemed like i wasn't on a cool head as i was replying.
"No I don't care. I just thing if you move to a DA first it is the more "careful" choice. "