I want to step up my game, a Dual Action machine, or the Klasse Forum Favorite Kit??

No I don't care. I just thing if you move to a DA first it is the more "careful" choice.
 
You have your own suggestion, i have my own! What's wrong with you? You don't have to go all gaga if you don't agree with me..lol. But you can't force me to adapt to what you think is right. To each his own, i am merely sharing to the person asking..which i believe is not you.
 
it's just that on my own car the XP wasn't just enough, couldn't get the intermediate swirls out.

Sounds like your technique may fall into play here as the PC has been proven to get out imperfections in even the hardest paint leaving them smooth and swirl free.

Nobody is going "gaga" on you, we are giving our own opinion just as you are giving yours.
 
No, it's not you Dwayne. But no worries, it's fine. I just feel the comments he's dishing out are towards me, but i could be wrong. :)
 
No, it's not you Dwayne. But no worries, it's fine. I just feel the comments he's dishing out are towards me, but i could be wrong. :)

I don't see it that way at all, I think you're just reading into it too much ;)
 
How about you Mike..did you start with a DA?


I started out using a Milwaukee Rotary buffer and later in life bought my own Makita variable speed rotary buffer.

Using a rotary buffer to buff out entire cars is more work and harder work than any other tool. It will require more upper body strength, more back strength and more leg strength especially if you're using a full size rotary buffer. Just ask anyone that's used a rotary buffer for any length of time. Compared to a rotary buffer, any of the popular DA Polishers are much easier to use and this includes the Porter Cable, Meguiar's, Griot's, Flex 3401 and the Cyclo.

The small lightweight Flex 3401 is actually pretty easy to use and control as long as you're using small pads on it, it's the full sizes rotary buffers with full size pads that will do a lot of work quickly, remove serious or deep paint defects effectively, remove sanding marks over an entire car better and faster than any other tool and it's also the tool that will require you to possess the highest level of skill to do it right and not make any mistakes.

In most all cases using a rotary buffer is going to mean more steps and more time, at least for someone starting out. Learning to use and control a rotary buffer requires more practice and focus. I always recommend to people starting out with a rotary buffer to ONLY tackle a panel or a portion of a car at one time, a panel would be like the hood or a portion would be like the front clip.

Just to do a 3-step rotary buffer process to the front clip of a car is more than enough to keep a Newbie busy for a day.

I don't and wont' argue with anyone over their opinion of a tool, you can all choose and use whichever tool you are most drawn towards. Autogeek won't allow arguing over tools, Nuff said.

I wrote an article on how to choose the right polisher for your detailing project and in this article I created an "Ease of use ranking" system in which I ranked all the tools Autogeek offers, with a number from 1 to 5 and I'll stand by what I wrote.

How to choose the right polisher for your detailing project


I've also taught thousands of people in person how to use a DA Polisher and hundreds of people how to use a rotary buffer. There's no way of knowing how many people I've taught via a video or the typed word, but a lot. Here's the most recent example of a person that's NEVER used an electric polisher successfully buffing out a black car his very first time.


Proof You Can Do It! - Joe The Detailer - Black Porsche Turned into Black Pearl!

JoeTheDetailer011.jpg






On any Saturday afternoon anyone willing to learn how to use any electric polisher can be taught how to use an electric polisher. That said, the easiest tool to learn how to use and avoid any mistakes is the DA Polisher.


I actually have some fairly in-depth articles on the rotary buffer, they're just not posted to this forum and in order to post them here I have to re-write them or I will plagiarize myself. They're not that hard to find if you're interested.

Again, I'll stand by what I wrote here...

How to choose the right polisher for your detailing project


:props:
 
If your talking about me, i'm not getting mad at anyone what so ever. I just feel that the DA is easier as far as machines go :)
 
If your talking about me, i'm not getting mad at anyone what so ever. I just feel that the DA is easier as far as machines go :)


I'm posting the above link for everyone to read, even people not posting to this thread... evem myself, I need to read the above linked article from time to time...


Just trying to help keep everything in perspective... it's car wax folks... (or polishers, same difference)...


:)
 
why hello friends I think I am headed down the DA road (sorry rohnramirez) May dare to ask which one is the best bang for the buck? I would spend the $ on the flex if it is truly worth it but I am a weekend warrior who at best might do 5 cars for cash a year. or am I throwing good money on a name?? Or is it a pad thing as the better machine will offer better selections of pads to fit the needs of the jobs, I am purely talking out of my b*%t here because I don't have a clue about car polishing pads, though i am very familiar with micron sandpaper and solid surface counter tops as where i work we used to make solid surface counter tops, so I imagine the pads for the polishers along the same lines though not so dramatic. Or I may be way off base.
 
Asking if the Flex is worth it is opening a can of worms. You will get plenty of "Flex is best" and a bunch of "Griots is the best for the money" and a few "PC is the most reliable" posts.

I'd say just pick whatever floats your boat and learn to use it. They will all provide satisfactory results and years of pleasurable garage time.

If I had to choose one, I'd choose the Griots (in fact, I did). Price is right. Power is best in class and they offer a lifetime replacement warranty. Pretty hard to beat that combo.
 
Sounds like your technique may fall into play here as the PC has been proven to get out imperfections in even the hardest paint leaving them smooth and swirl free.

True! I cannot stress how much this is a reliable tool. It is just that it doesn't work on mine. It's a 28-coat thick custom paint job (10coats polyurethane orange base, 9coats pearlescent green with gold flakes and 9 coats ultra gloss and extra hard diluted with extra slow drying thinner). It does work but you need 12-16 section passes per step to get what you want...that's just too long. So i found the rotary a more efficient tool on mine. That should clear things out.

why hello friends I think I am headed down the DA road (sorry rohnramirez) May dare to ask which one is the best bang for the buck? I would spend the $ on the flex if it is truly worth it but I am a weekend warrior who at best might do 5 cars for cash a year. or am I throwing good money on a name?? Or is it a pad thing as the better machine will offer better selections of pads to fit the needs of the jobs, I am purely talking out of my b*%t here because I don't have a clue about car polishing pads, though i am very familiar with micron sandpaper and solid surface counter tops as where i work we used to make solid surface counter tops, so I imagine the pads for the polishers along the same lines though not so dramatic. Or I may be way off base.

No worries my friend. It is just my opinion, i am not forcing anyone to go for anything.."i just said "i'd go with a rotary."

Learning to use and control a rotary buffer requires more practice and focus. I always recommend to people starting out with a rotary buffer to ONLY tackle a panel or a portion of a car at one time, a panel would be like the hood or a portion would be like the front clip.

I totally agree!!!

Asking if the Flex is worth it is opening a can of worms. You will get plenty of "Flex is best" and a bunch of "Griots is the best for the money" and a few "PC is the most reliable" posts.

:iagree:

I don't see it that way at all, I think you're just reading into it too much

maybe..lol. Sorry if i found the below statement a bit offensive. And Cheers to everyone, and i apologize if it seemed like i wasn't on a cool head as i was replying.

"No I don't care. I just thing if you move to a DA first it is the more "careful" choice. "
 
DA will work just fine. and it is ALOT safer for someone that is new to using a machine. there are very very very few times i HAVE to use my Dewalt rotary. yes rotary's or faster but not everyone can finish down with a rotary. mush easier to get better finish with a DA.

this was done with PC7424 DA
DSC01678.jpg


DSC01667.jpg


this was done with a rotary by someone that was new to machine polishing and had no training
Hack2.jpg


Hack1.jpg


but with expierence this is what a rotary can do for you
P8090212.jpg
 
These are the ones I use.

Makita 9227

Makita9227.jpg


Flex 3401

Flex3401.jpg


Porter Cable 7424

PC7424.jpg


Trio

Buffers.jpg
 
True! I cannot stress how much this is a reliable tool. It is just that it doesn't work on mine. It's a 28-coat thick custom paint job (10coats polyurethane orange base, 9coats pearlescent green with gold flakes and 9 coats ultra gloss and extra hard diluted with extra slow drying thinner). It does work but you need 12-16 section passes per step to get what you want...that's just too long. So i found the rotary a more efficient tool on mine. That should clear things out.



No worries my friend. It is just my opinion, i am not forcing anyone to go for anything.."i just said "i'd go with a rotary."



I totally agree!!!



:iagree:



maybe..lol. Sorry if i found the below statement a bit offensive. And Cheers to everyone, and i apologize if it seemed like i wasn't on a cool head as i was replying.

"No I don't care. I just thing if you move to a DA first it is the more "careful" choice. "
What Products do you like to use with your machine? I realize the machine is part of the battle but the machine probly is only as good as the product you apply with it. Like I had stated I have Minor Swirls and am interested in cleaning those up and really cleaning the finish and a machine applied sealer, closing with Carnuba for the real wet look.:xyxthumbs:
 
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The most popular products to take out swirls etc are Meguiar's M105 and M205 polishes/compounds.

classic-motoring_2102_19009559
 
:whs:

i even have a secret weapon. I only get it for $6 a bottle, which makes use of nanotechnology. I get good results everytime. :)
 
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