Id's this what I should expect from Second Skin Six?

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larry0071

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It's been a month since I covered my 2004 Grand Prix GT in Second Skin Six by Chemical Guys. This is the first serious rain that it's seen, and I'm used to my retired and true, Four Star Ultimate Paint Protection sealant. So when I walked out and saw this, I was thinking that the SS6 is dead already.

I'm in western Pa, near Pittsburgh, do we don't have extreme sun (UV) to kill a coating this quickly. Using the UPP, I get 6+ months of sharp beading before the product starts to break down.

Maybe a coating doesn't bead as I'm used to seeing and this is normal? Can anyone advise?

Hood...
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Trunk....
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Roof....
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I think I would talk to CG and see what they say. What was your prep process?
 
:welcome: ...to AGO!!

•I wonder if this water-"sheeting" (for a better lack of terms) your vehicle is experiencing is due to:
-one of this Coating's attributes;
-your vehicle needed to be washed prior to being rained upon;
-your car wash shampoo has left a film residue that needs to be thoroughly removed from the Coating;
-environmental contaminates, rail/brake dust, etc., have become embedded in the Coating, itself, and needs to be de-contaminated.


•However:
-I have to admit that I'd rather have the type of water "action" depicted in your photos...than a bunch of possible paint damaging water beads, all over my vehicles, to have to worry about!


Bob
-
 
It looks like it didn't bond unless it's formulated to sheet like some products. I'm not familiar with Second Skin but what was your prep and application?
 
Start watching at 13:22. Greg's car has SS6 on it and it does not bead. From what I have seen, this coating was not designed to bead well.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQ32CqvgtMA]How To: Coin Operated Car Wash Tips & Tricks - Chemical Guys BMW E39 530i - YouTube[/video]
 
Looks like you might have a bonding issues or premature failure.

That looks like the same beading you get from the v 7 they offer.

IMO you would be better off to apply a different coating one that has a good track record and great feedback.
 
I have no experience with the product, but to me, it doesn't look as it should. Either something went awry in the prep/application or it's not supposed to bead. But to me, that doesn't even look like sheeting, that just looks like a car that has no protection.

Again, I have no experience with the product though, so don't take too much from what I have to say.

Oh, and :welcome:
 
Based on the video I posted from CG, it appears that it may be performing just fine. Beading does not indicate protection.
 
Yes, that is what you should expect. It doesn't bead at all, but it sheets. Only, it does this so slowly on a just washed car, that when the car is lightly dirty / dusty, it doesn't work anymore.
CG also advice to top it with V07 or a wax...
 
Okay, prep was clay bar, Meguiars ultimate polish with my Flex, wash with a strong solution of Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss and then in for the coating. The car was fully corrected a year ago and had just over 5000 miles on it, so it wasn't bad at all. It was previously protected with the UPP and I would use Meguiars X-Press spray wax on it every 4-6 weeks. It used to bead like it was pissed off at water!

I might start the X-Press wax over this, I wasn't expecting the coating to look like this in rain..... I always used the beading to tell me that my protection was in place or to gage if it's fading and needs topped off again with the X-Press spray wax.
 
I am a fan of CG, however when it comes to coatings i prefer CQUK. Not only is it cheaper, it seems to work better overall.

When it comes to the prep portion too-- the Second Skin has almost zero prep requirements.
 
If someone can give me one iota of proof that a coating that doesn't bead or sheet well on paint is still existing on the paint - please let me know.

Other than beading/sheeting - you have no way to tell if the coating failed. So, in my head - a coating not designed to bead/sheet may not even be sticking to the paint...who knows???

Not to mention, any highly hydrophobic surface seems to stay cleaner and is easier to clean by pressure washing...

What good is a coating with poor hydrophobicity?
 
swanicyouth said:
If someone can give me one iota of proof that a coating that doesn't bead or sheet well on paint is still existing on the paint - please let me know.

Other than beading/sheeting - you have no way to tell if the coating failed. So, in my head - a coating not designed to bead/sheet may not even be sticking to the paint...who knows???

Not to mention, any highly hydrophobic surface seems to stay cleaner and is easier to clean by pressure washing...

What good is a coating with poor hydrophobicity?
Click to expand...

I agree, and this is why I'm more inclined to be directed towards a product that has more durable high surface tension capabilities. That is, one whose surface tension properties are less likely to change over time irregardless of whatever chemical/soap/water has been introduced to the surface. It specifically tells me that a product is continuing to do what it was designed to do. The more a product behaves when wet like there's nothing on the surface, the more I question whether or not something is really there, and I'm completely in the dark in figuring out when it has to be reapplied.
 
larry0071 said:
Okay, prep was clay bar, Meguiars ultimate polish with my Flex, wash with a strong solution of Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss and then in for the coating. The car was fully corrected a year ago and had just over 5000 miles on it, so it wasn't bad at all. It was previously protected with the UPP and I would use Meguiars X-Press spray wax on it every 4-6 weeks. It used to bead like it was pissed off at water!
Click to expand...


This might be your problem, the gloss agent in Wash and Gloss might have "protected" the paint from the coating, and residual soap could be present if the washing concentration was exceedingly strong and the rinse was inadequate.


SYMAWD said:
Based on the video I posted from CG, it appears that it may be performing just fine. Beading does not indicate protection.
Click to expand...


I have to disagree with this statement. Beading IS an indication of protection. It isn't the ONLY indicator of protection, nor does it indicate the quality or duration of protection, but it certainly is an indictation that some form of protection is on the paint. Even the oils left over from polishing is a type of protection, until they wash off or evaporate.
 
I forgot to mention this as well in my reply, this is typical of how Second Skin behaves with water. It has a much lower surface tension, so you should not be expecting enhanced spherical beading with it. I don't believe anything you did while applying it negatively impacted its surface tension properties. This video here shows the sheeting style of SS6 after 48 hour cure time: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j1nRzEfnv-Q
 
I washed it good this afternoon and went over it with 2 applications of Meguiars X-Press spray wax, an hour apart. Now it has the typical super wet and super slick feel. I'm happy, it will now bead water tenaciously I'm sure!

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So, nowhere on the CG website does it say that SS6 is a hydrophobic coating. Rather, it says that it is "resistant to moisture."

There are some observable qualities of coatings and there are the more microscopic qualities of coatings that we can't observe.

Can a coating technically protect the clear coat (and thus the paint) without demonstrating any of the traditional qualities of what we typically observe in a coating (sheeting, beading, etc.)? Of course.

The only way to tell for sure is if you applied it correctly and then after the expected cure time tested the surface. If the surface demonstrated very poor wetting capability, then SS6 is a hydrophobic coating that should sheet and bead very well. Therefore, if after a month your coating displayed good wetting capacity (as yours seems to display), then the coating failed -- either because it was applied incorrectly or the product doesn't work as advertised.

If there is anything on top of the coating, then the wetting capacity will be that of the top coating. If you have road grime and film all over your car (despite having a nano coating), you may not get very good beading or sheeting.

Considering that all the other coatings and hybrid coatings out there display excellent hydrophobicity (poor wetting capacity), it stands to reason (but not logic) that SS6 should as well. Therefore, I suspect that if it's been a month and properly applied, SS6 just failed.
 
Loach said:
I forgot to mention this as well in my reply, this is typical of how Second Skin behaves with water. It has a much lower surface tension, so you should not be expecting enhanced spherical beading with it. I don't believe anything you did while applying it negatively impacted its surface tension properties. This video here shows the sheeting style of SS6 after 48 hour cure time: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j1nRzEfnv-Q
Click to expand...

I love the "laugh" of disappointment in the video... almost as much as like the the title, which describes 48 hours as long term.
 
Pretty lame. A skin that doesn't bead, huh. What will CG think of next?
What does a sealant/skin that doesn't bead protect you from? Maybe, compliments about your car?
 
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