IME, M105 reacts different on different paint systems...

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I think it's very easy to use on paint in good condition(like mine). Buffing cycle still isn't that long, but it seems to disappear as you're buffing, and dusts very little. Therfore, not much to remove and the residue that's still there wipes off easy. On the other hand, paint that's old and not in great condition, this is where it becomes hard to use. Short buffing cycle, doesn't seem to disappear as you buff, which results in a lot more residue to remove, and it's pretty hard to wipe away. Again, this is just my experience. :dblthumb2:
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
I think it's very easy to use on paint in good condition(like mine). Buffing cycle still isn't that long, but it seems to disappear as you're buffing, and dusts very little. Therfore, not much to remove and the residue that's still there wipes off easy. On the other hand, paint that's old and not in great condition, this is where it becomes hard to use. Short buffing cycle, doesn't seem to disappear as you buff, which results in a lot more residue to remove, and it's pretty hard to wipe away. Again, this is just my experience. :dblthumb2:
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Mark, I right there with you. I rejuvenated a 94 Honda over the weekend. I don't know if it ever saw a wax job in 16 years from the level of oxidation. The car looks great after a first cut with 105 and a second polish with OHP.

105 cut the oxidation pretty quickly but my goodness the pad loaded up with oxidized paint. Then the dust, dust and more dust... Maybe I used too much product but I could not get the compound off the paint at times. I needed to use Megs Final Inspection to wipe the stuff off. Granted it was in the 90's and dry, but the white powder gets into everything. Such a difference from OHP that I used the day before.

I have some OHC coming so I am excited to see if it cuts like 105 but eliminates the dust. That would be so cool!
 
I can't comment on other compounds but in my experience I'm with you Mark. 3M makes a 1/4" tape that is perfect for taping up seams, around door handles, and other small areas you may not want dust in. I finally located some locally and used it over the weekend, clean up was a breeze!
 
Good timing with this post, I was very discouraged after trying it on paint for the first time!! Up until this week, the only experience I had with M105 was using it on glass to remove water spots. I attempted to use it on a 2002 Saturn L300 that had severely neglected paint and could not make it work. It was dry before I finished spreading it over a section. I have read ALOT about how to use M105 and all its problems, but I have also seen some spectaclur results posted from people using it. I tried the KBM method, I tried pad conditioner, I tried a brand new pad, I tried a different type of pad (Cobra cross grove vs CCS) with no difference, nothing worked! It was still going on dry and impossible to remove.
I was wondering if it possibly worked differently on different paints or if maybe I had a defective bottle. But since it worked great on the glass cleaning I figured it must be the former. I will try again on better conditioned paint, but that really misses the point of using M105 doesn't it?
 
ShannonD said:
Good timing with this post, I was very discouraged after trying it on paint for the first time!! Up until this week, the only experience I had with M105 was using it on glass to remove water spots. I attempted to use it on a 2002 Saturn L300 that had severely neglected paint and could not make it work. It was dry before I finished spreading it over a section. I have read ALOT about how to use M105 and all its problems, but I have also seen some spectaclur results posted from people using it. I tried the KBM method, I tried pad conditioner, I tried a brand new pad, I tried a different type of pad (Cobra cross grove vs CCS) with no difference, nothing worked! It was still going on dry and impossible to remove.
I was wondering if it possibly worked differently on different paints or if maybe I had a defective bottle. But since it worked great on the glass cleaning I figured it must be the former. I will try again on better conditioned paint, but that really misses the point of using M105 doesn't it?
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My understanding is that you are NOT suppose to spread it. Prime pad then two or three small dabs and buff.
 
People say #95 may be a better choice for some paints. #95 is a rotary only compound but I'd like to use a rotary for serious correction anyway. More oily and longer buffing cycle rather than the drier nature of #105 (the lubricators of #105 can be swallowed by a dry, old paint).

What do pros think?
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
IME, M105 reacts different on different paint systems...
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Which is why many pros say they need to have a variety of polishes on hand, as not every job will respond the same to the same polishes.

Kokopelli said:
More oily and longer buffing cycle rather than the drier nature of #105 (the lubricators of #105 can be swallowed by a dry, old paint).
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I keep asking this question but for some reason I don't get an answer. Back in the day when the compounds people were using were Menz Power Gloss and Hi Temp Extreme Cut, they used to reduce the dusting by mixing in some of the original Optimum polishes or compounds, which were very thin/solventy (relied mostly on pad for cut). Those original Optimum formulas had seemingly unlimited work time, so that would seem to be a natural to mix in with 105, but no one seems to do this. Is that because the newer versions of Optimum (I'm not talking about the sprays) don't lend themselves to this? Or because it's heresy, or what?
 
Like Dougaross said, it definitely helps to not spread it arond first, keeping all the product on the pad increases work time. You can add a small amount of mineral oil and I think glycerine might work too. Mineral oil can act a lubricant as we all probably know. If you look at the MSDS of M105, it is listed as 1-5% glycerine and 1-5% "hydrotreated distallite CAS#64742-46-7" (mineral oil). This is a pretty small amount that gets used up(mineral oil)/gummed up(glycerine) quickly in high friction and high heat situations, such as when using it on paint that is extraordinarily rough. I've found that I can usually get a little bit more work time if I spray my work area with a fine mist of water while I'm working. Also, it helps to always work on a cool surface and out of sun especially when using aggressive compounds.
 
Mineral oil most definitely helps to extend the working time of M105. I dislike using water as a lubricant as it flashes to quickly and the residue left on the paint afterwards is like cement.

I also am one to switch to M95 during high temperatures or high humidity as M95 is really oily compound compared to M105. It has a really good working time. Not as much as optimum polishes but still pretty decent for a compound.
 
Lasthope05 said:
Mineral oil most definitely helps to extend the working time of M105. I dislike using water as a lubricant as it flashes to quickly and the residue left on the paint afterwards is like cement.

I also am one to switch to M95 during high temperatures or high humidity as M95 is really oily compound compared to M105. It has a really good working time. Not as much as optimum polishes but still pretty decent for a compound.
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I have two issues with 105 but it is still has the most correction of the products that I own. One is the dust and the other is the cement-like residue that I occassionally had to deal with. Optimum polishes are much easier to use but even OHP doesn't cut like 105 on a dry, freshly-primed orange pad. Megs Ultimate Compounds is also much easier to use but doesn't cut as quickly as 105. I also have to admit that 105 still dusts less than CG ProPolish and maybe even WG TSR.

Alan, you may have solved one of my complaints. :xyxthumbs: I wonder if having to wash the pads so often with the heavy oxidized paint build up left enough water in the pad that it flashed early and left the cement-like residue? It was about 100F over the weekend so 105 changed characteristics as the day heated up. I used Final Inspection to get the polish off without damaging the paint.
 
I'll use it on certain areas when needed. It definitely works well at removing defects, just not too user friendly.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Which is why many pros say they need to have a variety of polishes on hand, as not every job will respond the same to the same polishes.
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Absolutely. I have several polishes and compounds that would seem to be overlapping products, but I have them for this very reason.
 
IME, M105 reacts different on different paint systems...
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07 z-oh-6 said:
I think it's very easy to use on paint in good condition(like mine). Buffing cycle still isn't that long, but it seems to disappear as you're buffing, and dusts very little. Therfore, not much to remove and the residue that's still there wipes off easy. On the other hand, paint that's old and not in great condition, this is where it becomes hard to use. Short buffing cycle, doesn't seem to disappear as you buff, which results in a lot more residue to remove, and it's pretty hard to wipe away. Again, this is just my experience. :dblthumb2:
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Are you referring to different paint systems (different paint manufacturers) or paint that's in a different condition? Every product could have different characterstics based on condition, application, environment, technique and pad used. However, out of all the products I've used, I've found that M105 to be the most predictable and consistent of them all. It's most likely the reason why many other companies try comparing thier own to it. I've been told they've gone to extreme lenghts by testing this product in multiple countries under an extreme of variables to insure for this.
 
David Fermani said:
Are you referring to different paint systems (different paint manufacturers) or paint that's in a different condition? Every product could have different characterstics based on condition, application, environment, technique and pad used. However, out of all the products I've used, I've found that M105 to be the most predictable and consistent of them all. It's most likely the reason why many other companies try comparing thier own to it. I've been told they've gone to extreme lenghts by testing this product in multiple countries under an extreme of variables to insure for this.
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My fault, good catch. I meant paint in different conditions, not the actual paint system.
 
David Fermani said:
Is there a product (used to correct paint) that reacts identical on every car? If so, which one?
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Identical? No. I've used optimum spray compund on a few cars with different paint conditions, and it seemed to be more consistent in terms of ease of use compared to M105. JMO.
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
Identical? No. I've used optimum spray compund on a few cars with different paint conditions, and it seemed to be more consistent in terms of ease of use compared to M105. JMO.
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Correct. I've found OSC to work easy on all my applications, but found its leveling consistency to vary quite differently than M105. JMO2 :)
 
Kurt_s said:
I have two issues with 105 but it is still has the most correction of the products that I own. One is the dust and the other is the cement-like residue that I occassionally had to deal with. Optimum polishes are much easier to use but even OHP doesn't cut like 105 on a dry, freshly-primed orange pad. Megs Ultimate Compounds is also much easier to use but doesn't cut as quickly as 105. I also have to admit that 105 still dusts less than CG ProPolish and maybe even WG TSR.

Alan, you may have solved one of my complaints. :xyxthumbs: I wonder if having to wash the pads so often with the heavy oxidized paint build up left enough water in the pad that it flashed early and left the cement-like residue? It was about 100F over the weekend so 105 changed characteristics as the day heated up. I used Final Inspection to get the polish off without damaging the paint.
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The baby oil(mineral oil) actually helps cut down the dusting by a lot. You can basically work M105 forever and get very little to no dust and removal will be like M205. I easily get over 10 passes without it even drying out. Give it a try. I know you're going to love it. ;)

Put some baby oil in a small travel size spritzer bottle and use two sprays to prime the pad and afterwards 1 spray for every 3-4 new sections. As always, constantly clean the pad on the fly.
 
David Fermani said:
Correct. I've found OSC to work easy on all my applications, but found its leveling consistency to vary quite differently than M105. JMO2 :)
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M105 will never be something I eliminate from my arsenal. :dblthumb2:
 
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