Excellent write up Mike, a lot of pics! ( I hate uploading pics LOL )
Thanks Andrew! I had to really choose which ones I liked the most as I took roughly 400 pictures!
Sooo finally I had a moment to sit down, read this all, and give you my thoughts! (didn't read all comments, but again my thoughts)
Thank you for taking the time from your very busy schedule to comment on my write-up. It is truly appreciated.
First I find it interesting Menz is bring a stronger cut compound to the table... I have never felt the need for anything stronger than FG400 ( or really anything else I use ).
I feel mostly the same. You can always vary the cut with FG400 by switching to a wool pad with a 3401 or just pick up the PE14 to really knock out the defects.
On the other hand for users of just the 3401 and wool, the added cut may be just what is needed.
I guess you can say it is a market trend really, people are demanding more cut! But you really sacrifice finish and clarity ( as you have shown above ).
This is exactly the case. For me the PE14, wool, and FG400 can tackle anything thrown at it within reason and finish out to an incredible high standard for such an aggressive product. SC300 gives that extra cut but can not match the level of finish that FG400 can provide.
I haven't done any testing in a one step scenario with SC300, but I don't think it would be a good idea to use it as a one step given the level of hazing after use with the white pad.
Interesting how you intentionally put in RIDS by leaving grit and debris in-between paper, let the paper wad a bit on your block, high pressure ( I hope that makes something click for people who are new to wet sanding! ).
Good observation!
Where here in the forum world we all know the proper procedures and the importance of working surgically clean while wetsanding, the average body shop does not exhibit this level of care we take pride in.
I also wanted to capture real world testing by providing exactly that. A standard level of attention to the task at hand.
I too hope the many readers take this into consideration of what level of focus and attention is required to achieve show car results.
This will be captured in my 3n1 review.
As I read through I figured the wool and rotary would finish clearer with SC300 than on the 3401, but still it really points out how aggressive SC300 is! Almost like Scholls S0 matting compound!
This new SC300 is clearly no joke in attacking defects regardless of machine choice!
Again this leads me onto my main thought. I am struggling to see where you would need this, maybe if you want to pull 800 or 1000 grit, but still you run into other issues compounding low grits like that out. My usual route for flat sanding is (600)-800-1200-1500-2000 and done. FG400 (along with pretty much everything else out there) does not struggle. I would like to guess this is more aimed at a market that is less experienced and/or in a bind and needs something that will just work regardless of finish!
As mentioned above, I too do not see much use for this given the level of knowledge on what exactly is requierd to accomplish a specific task.
As you mentioned I see this aimed for the market that needs something that cuts no matter what it takes. I will make sure I keep some of this stuff on hand just in case but in small quantity. You never know when you may need that extra Oomph!
From all of your side by side pics, FG400 was always clearer! Really on a rotary, you demonstrated quite damn well how clear wool and compound can get! ( Really it SHOULD always be like that! ) Light finishing polish and soft pad, then you have perfection. Really if you have a clean pad, low speed and light pressure, most paints can get near hologram free with FG and wool on a rotary. I would give exception to soft new paint and unbaked of course (but thats a given really)
No matter what I did FG400 ALWAYS finished exceptionaly clear for its capabilities. I am really amazed at what FG400 brings to the table. The level of finish it obtains even when used on a rotary and wool pad amazes me. Grab SF4000 and a white Hybrid pad an it has enough pull to remove any halograms, hazing, or other issues while finishing crystal clear regardless of machine choice.
Another point, I noticed PPG and SATA guns - any more input on how it was painted? What clear and do you know the reducer mix?? I want to guess Deltron DC3000 or DCU2021??
Let me check to see what was most likely used and report back.
Looking forward to seeing the AIO work! ( ask Menz if you can up the cut of the AIO by adding a one of their polishes or compounds!)
Hey now that's an idea!
Thanks for the level of feedback Andrew! Really appreciated and I enjoyed what we shared here.
Thanks again.
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