swanicyouth
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- Mar 3, 2011
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I'll be calling Monday. Thanks.
Introducing: Duragloss Squeaky Clean
- Thread starter richy
- Start date
I'll be calling Monday. Thanks.
Interesting...
Interesting. What sort of residue? In my mind any residue left behind by squeaky clean doesn't equal "nothing is left behind".
Nothing wrong with doing an extra wipe down to "ensure" the paint is clean, but when a claim is made there needs to be a delivery as well. In this case, I think all that's needed is some clarification.
I'm not trying to rain on a new product from Duragloss, or richy's parade here (have no reason to), rather, it seems further explanation/clarification is needed, at least for me, as to why the extra wipe down was needed. I thought this products was to clean the paint before a coating was applied. That means you should be able to go straight from the squeaky clean step straight to the coating. Unless of course there's dust that needs to be removed, but I've never heard dust termed as a residue. As Mike Phillips has said so often, 'words mean someting...just ask any attorney'.
If the product is to work as described, and consumers buy it based on claims, then the product needs to deliver. In this case, not only deliver in cleaning the paint, but also negate the need for an additional wipe down prior to applying a coating, which was how it's been described here.
Richy does great work and I always enjoy his postings. I'm sure he can/will further explain why he did the additional wipe down, so I won't attempt to put words on this page for him.
I have no doubt that this Duragloss product is good. I don't doubt any of richy's claims in this introduction. However, given Marks comments ("nothing is left behind") in comparison to richy's description above...I am left a bit confused, and I think for good cause since the comments contradict each other and indeed richy did do an additional wipe down after using the new product.
I'm sure richy will chime in and clarify this for me, as well as for other folks. Again, not knocking richy, nor his introduction, nor the product. Just need some clarification.
WRAPT C5Z06
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- Nov 12, 2009
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Bill, I had no idea that Richy did a seperate wipe down. I was just going off what Richy said, "nothing left behind". If nothing is left behind, there shouldn't be any need AT ALL for a wipe down. If there is any doubt that a wipe down is needed, the paint cannot be "squeaky clean".
Exactly my point.:xyxthumbs:
Again, I didn't post that to pick on richy, rather, it's just something I picked up on in both threads and a question came to mind.
Klasse Act
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- Feb 21, 2012
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Yeah, that's what he said it was like in the 1st post, I can't wait to get a bottle soon!
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That's what I understood richy to write:
DG Squeaky Clean = cleaner with zero sealant.
DG 501 = cleaners AND sealant.
However...
Just so there's no confusion as to what was actually written. Click on the little red box in the quote to see the entire posts by richy.
Then ...
A yellow flag went up for me when reading these comments, thus my questions.
ArkayoDeetayo
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- Aug 12, 2011
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so is this pretty much Duragloss's version of the Wolfgang Paint Cleanser or Pinnacle Cleansing Lotion? (from my understanding, these are to remove old wax etc for a fresh coat of LSP)
richy
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- Mar 27, 2007
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- #28
Bill, I'm sorry if I caused confusion. When you are putting on a product such as this and wiping it off, I go over it with a dampened mf with ONR just to make sure I've removed everything (SC) from the surface. It's a very fast step and, in my opinion, is just an insurance policy to make sure you've not left any SC behind. You could probably follow it up with another mf too for that matter. I am just in the habit of using a dampened mf with ONR, that's all. Does that make sense? I'm not saying that SC leaves anything behind on its own. It's just any time you put a product on the paint, especially the last one, you want to make sure you've got it all removed, that's all. I'm just giving you the honest approach that I take. I am paranoid perhaps, but I'm OK with that, LOL.
Shortspark
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- Jun 14, 2012
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It seems Duragloss has now completed the circle and provided a paintwork cleaner specifically for the purpose of preparing the paint for an LSP. Previously, they had cleaner products with sealants that were used for different and very specific purposes. This product hodgepodge was at times confusing and put off some people who wanted more direct and clear cut instructions.
I have been using Duragloss products for a long time and this is what I believe is true from reading threads here and even from email responses from Jerry himself as to questions I have had:
101 - consider this as their AIO, comparable to Klasse AIO. It is a fairly strong cleaner and contains sealant - a one step product.
501 - actually made for fiberglass boats but also works very well for cars. This product is also a strong cleaner and as such, recommended for older vehicles.
105 - another polish/sealant combo that is made specifically for cars in newer and better condition. Not quite as strong a cleaner as the others but on newer paint could also work as an AIO because of the extra sealant it contains.
111 - pure sealant with virtually no cleaners or abrasives. Definitive LSP.
652 - pure polish to be used to remove oxidation, swirls, scratches, water marks, etc. Used primarily for neglected vehicles. Their strongest cleaner and paint prep. This may be Squeaky Clean's kissing cousin.
Because my car is only a year old, I have used P21S Paintwork Cleanser followed by 601/105 or 601/111. During the past year I have topped the Duragloss with wax twice - once with Collinite 845 and once Using Griot's Premium Wax. I have been happy using these combinations on my Diamond White MB ML350, which I believe is as hard a paint as you will find. As I said in a previous post, I love the P21S, but since Duragloss is my go to sealants I may just have to give Squeaky Clean a try.
I have been using Duragloss products for a long time and this is what I believe is true from reading threads here and even from email responses from Jerry himself as to questions I have had:
101 - consider this as their AIO, comparable to Klasse AIO. It is a fairly strong cleaner and contains sealant - a one step product.
501 - actually made for fiberglass boats but also works very well for cars. This product is also a strong cleaner and as such, recommended for older vehicles.
105 - another polish/sealant combo that is made specifically for cars in newer and better condition. Not quite as strong a cleaner as the others but on newer paint could also work as an AIO because of the extra sealant it contains.
111 - pure sealant with virtually no cleaners or abrasives. Definitive LSP.
652 - pure polish to be used to remove oxidation, swirls, scratches, water marks, etc. Used primarily for neglected vehicles. Their strongest cleaner and paint prep. This may be Squeaky Clean's kissing cousin.
Because my car is only a year old, I have used P21S Paintwork Cleanser followed by 601/105 or 601/111. During the past year I have topped the Duragloss with wax twice - once with Collinite 845 and once Using Griot's Premium Wax. I have been happy using these combinations on my Diamond White MB ML350, which I believe is as hard a paint as you will find. As I said in a previous post, I love the P21S, but since Duragloss is my go to sealants I may just have to give Squeaky Clean a try.
Setec Astronomy
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- Aug 31, 2010
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I dunno...can it really be a DG product without a 3-digit number?
Klasse Act
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- Feb 21, 2012
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That honestly made me laugh out loud, for real Setec, maybe we should start a poll and come out with a number for it, I mean the early bottles are prototypes, right?
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With the above logic, there's nothing at all wrong with making sure you've removed all of the Squeaky Clean...as it does need wiping off, as do other Duragloss polishes and sealants. So, the residue you was wanting to remove would be 'any additional product' they may be left over from the wiping off process and NOT really a residue at all, as you described. That makes sense. Sort of like making sure there isn't any smudges or smears left where the SC might not have been fully wiped off.
I sort of thought that is what you meant richy, but I wanted to make sure.
Richy is correct, at least from the descriptions I've seen posted by Chris @ Optimum, and posts by Dr. G himself stating that the products are synergystically compatible with Optimums waxes and coatings.
I tried to edit the above post, but I took to long and it timed out on me. So, I've copied and pasted my edit of post #35 below:
With the above logic, there's nothing at all wrong with making sure you've removed all of the Squeaky Clean...as the product does need wiping off, as do other Duragloss polishes and sealants. So, the residue you was wanting to remove would be 'any additional residual product' that may be left over from the wiping off process and NOT really a residue at all, as you described. That makes sense, and I'm good with that. Sort of like making sure there isn't any smudges or smears left where the SC might not have been fully wiped off, and similar to missing spot of applied wax during removal.
I sort of thought that is what you meant richy, but I wanted to make sure.
Richy is correct, at least from the descriptions I've seen posted by Chris @ Optimum, and posts by Dr. G himself stating that the products are synergystically compatible with Optimums waxes and coatings.
Aside from pure water, most products will leave a true redisue behind. This is true with almost any cleaning products/degreasers whether those cleaning products are for paint, glass, metal, whatever.
The real question for me at least, as concerns any residue that's left behind is: Does a microscopic level of Squeaky Clean residue left (not refering to a spot of missed product left during wipe off, rather a true residue left behind) on the surface of the paint negatively affect the adhesion of a coating?
Since richy did an ONR wipe down the answer to the above question still remains in my mind. However, there apparently was no issues between the SC and the ONR which may be an indicator of how a true SC residue might react with an Optimum coating, or any coating, with no effect at all possibly.
My guess would be that any microscopic level of residue left behind would be a moot point...meaning that Squeaky Clean does it's job...which would be as richy described...to make the paint surface squeaky clean prior to applying a coating.
At any rate, I'm sure at some point Optimum and other coating manufacturer's will come up with an official stance on this issue (what product to use ensure no 'oils' remain and to ensure proper coating adhesion). My guess is that the response won't be anything like what real world examples will provide. The manufacturer's have to ('have to' description used loosely) protect themselves.
With the above logic, there's nothing at all wrong with making sure you've removed all of the Squeaky Clean...as the product does need wiping off, as do other Duragloss polishes and sealants. So, the residue you was wanting to remove would be 'any additional residual product' that may be left over from the wiping off process and NOT really a residue at all, as you described. That makes sense, and I'm good with that. Sort of like making sure there isn't any smudges or smears left where the SC might not have been fully wiped off, and similar to missing spot of applied wax during removal.
I sort of thought that is what you meant richy, but I wanted to make sure.
Richy is correct, at least from the descriptions I've seen posted by Chris @ Optimum, and posts by Dr. G himself stating that the products are synergystically compatible with Optimums waxes and coatings.
Aside from pure water, most products will leave a true redisue behind. This is true with almost any cleaning products/degreasers whether those cleaning products are for paint, glass, metal, whatever.
The real question for me at least, as concerns any residue that's left behind is: Does a microscopic level of Squeaky Clean residue left (not refering to a spot of missed product left during wipe off, rather a true residue left behind) on the surface of the paint negatively affect the adhesion of a coating?
Since richy did an ONR wipe down the answer to the above question still remains in my mind. However, there apparently was no issues between the SC and the ONR which may be an indicator of how a true SC residue might react with an Optimum coating, or any coating, with no effect at all possibly.
My guess would be that any microscopic level of residue left behind would be a moot point...meaning that Squeaky Clean does it's job...which would be as richy described...to make the paint surface squeaky clean prior to applying a coating.
At any rate, I'm sure at some point Optimum and other coating manufacturer's will come up with an official stance on this issue (what product to use ensure no 'oils' remain and to ensure proper coating adhesion). My guess is that the response won't be anything like what real world examples will provide. The manufacturer's have to ('have to' description used loosely) protect themselves.
604_Snooze
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- Oct 30, 2011
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If I am going to polish the car with a light polish ( either M205 or hyper polish ), will going over the paint with Squeaky clean going to make the sealant bond better or is this product best be use on a wash/wax type job with no polishing?
mavin
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- Apr 14, 2013
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If you are going to polish out the car, it is easier to just use an IPA/Eraser/Griots pre-wax wipe down prior to wax/sealant.
richy
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- Mar 27, 2007
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- #39
In my opinion, you have 2 choices from DG: SC or 501. SC will work in ALL cases. 501 will be fine if you're going with a wax or sealant. 501 rocks prior to a sealant or wax. 501 has protection in the product, but if you're using it to clean the paint, then follow it up with more 501 (now you're using the 2nd coat as a sealant and not a cleaner) or a sealant or wax of your choice. 501 is so awesome at cleaning, that's why I had asked Jerry for a product "like 501 but with no sealant at all".
Make sense?
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richy
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- Mar 27, 2007
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As an example of using SC, I'm doing a 5 year old 3 series that I finished polishing with 205. Since I'm coating it, I wanted to make sure no oils from 205 would be left on the surface. I put SC on by hand with a foam applicator. SC does 2 things: cleans any oils AND lets you see the true condition of the paint after polishing.
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