Ipa wipe down with 70% isopropyl alcohol mixture question

Jpatchley

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What should the dilation be for an ipa wipe down using the 70% purchased at wal mart?
 
The below is a "sticky" in the "Hot Topics" forum group because it tends to be a topic that comes up all the time.

How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results



Here's the answer....


70% IPA
To mix a 32 ounce Spray Bottle
8 ounces (or ½ of a 16 ounce bottle) will make 32 ounce of 17.5% IPA to Water solution. Get a 32 ounce container, pour in 8 ounces, (or ½ of a 16 ounce bottle) of the 70% IPA and then fill the rest of the container up with water and you get 32 ounces of 17.5% IPA to Water solution.

All3IPAOptions.jpg




:)
 
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I use around 20%. First I dilute it as if the IPA was 100%. Then I figure the IPA is ABOUT 30% less than 100% (its 70%), so I add about 30% more IPA than the original amount of IPA I added. Easy to do in your head.
 
The below is a "sticky" in the "Hot Topics" forum group because it tends to be a topic that comes up all the time.

How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results



Here's the answer....


70% IPA
To mix a 32 ounce Spray Bottle
8 ounces (or ½ of a 16 ounce bottle) will make 32 ounce of 17.5% IPA to Water solution. Get a 32 ounce container, pour in 8 ounces, (or ½ of a 16 ounce bottle) of the 70% IPA and then fill the rest of the container up with water and you get 32 ounces of 17.5% IPA to Water solution.

All3IPAOptions.jpg




:)
As always great info Mike. :xyxthumbs:
 
What should the dilation be for an ipa wipe down using the 70% purchased at wal mart?

Just be careful. A IPA wipe down can soften paint while wiping which will cause scratching/marring. It happens to my car every time I do a IPA wipe down. I switched to wurth clean solv prep instead.
 
Just be careful. A IPA wipe down can soften paint while wiping which will cause scratching/marring. It happens to my car every time I do a IPA wipe down. I switched to wurth clean solv prep instead.

I should point out that it is quite plausible that your damage is being caused by the lack of lubrication provided by IPA, a problem that will not exist with a panel wipe like you now use.

Does no one ever question why Eraser, a product with 30% IPA, does not damage paint at all when so many straight dilutions of IPA probably will?
 
I should point out that it is quite plausible that your damage is being caused by the lack of lubrication provided by IPA, a problem that will not exist with a panel wipe like you now use.

Does no one ever question why Eraser, a product with 30% IPA, does not damage paint at all when so many straight dilutions of IPA probably will?

Actually Eraser does too. I have cut everything out with IPA in it. It might just be the paint on my car, but everything I use with IPA induces marring every time used. I will do a panel, wipe it down with menz top inspection and all is good. Rewash then reinspect, still all good. Use Eraser or a IPA to get anything else off then swirls/scratches there right after.
 
Just be careful. A IPA wipe down can soften paint while wiping which will cause scratching/marring. It happens to my car every time I do a IPA wipe down. I switched to wurth clean solv prep instead.

I should point out that it is quite plausible that your damage is being caused by the lack of lubrication provided by IPA, a problem that will not exist with a panel wipe like you now use.

Does no one ever question why Eraser, a product with 30% IPA, does not damage paint at all when so many straight dilutions of IPA probably will?


That's my issue with wiping with any dilution of IPA, it's not a good lubricant.

I cover this in my article on diluting IPA and also on the first page of this article,

Hologram Free with a Rotary Buffer



So anyone reading this, keep in mind just because I wrote an article on how to use IPA to wipe paint it certainly doesn't mean I endorse the practice

In fact I state this in the second paragraph of the article right after the more important article and that's the warning not to wipe IPA on fresh paint.


How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results


Mike Phillips said:
Note: The below article is NOT an official recommendation by Mike Phillips or Autogeek. It is an attempt to clear up any confusion on the topic of chemically stripping paint with the common products used for this procedure as discussed on detailing discussion forums. If you choose to chemically strip your car's paint, or your customer's car paint, all the risk is yours. Anytime you use a new product or procedure, it's a great idea to first test in an inconspicuous area and check the results before moving forward.




:)
 
Thanks for the discussion and links everyone. So from your responses, would using a paint cleaner like the Detailers Plus be recommended over using an IPA wipedown?
 
I should point out that it is quite plausible that your damage is being caused by the lack of lubrication provided by IPA, a problem that will not exist with a panel wipe like you now use.

Does no one ever question why Eraser, a product with 30% IPA, does not damage paint at all when so many straight dilutions of IPA probably will?

How do you know Eraser contains 30% IPA or any IPA?
 
Thanks for the discussion and links everyone. So from your responses, would using a paint cleaner like the Detailers Plus be recommended over using an IPA wipedown?

What are you trying to do?

The BEST thing is follow the manufacturers instructions for any coatings. For example; Opticoat: use Optimum polishes, then gentle IPA or water wipedown. If the car is clean, and the towels are good, marring shouldn't be an issue on normal paint.

CQuartz, use Eraser. G Technique, use their Panel wipe. DP, use their polish. If the manufacturer cant provide or point you to a product to use prior to their coating, why use it? Too many out there that do. Unless you want to gamble?
 
Thanks for the discussion and links everyone. So from your responses, would using a paint cleaner like the Detailers Plus be recommended over using an IPA wipedown?


Here's the deal, how you prep the paint depends upon the product you're going to apply and then you follow the manufacturer's directions.

It's mostly coatings that need to have a surgically clean surface, not so much waxes and sealants.


So here's a couple of questions...


What are you working on?
What are you using?


:)
 
Ok, here was the original issue. After I used M105, followed by M205, I had lots or dusting and some dried hard specs of what I'm thinking was leftover product. I found it extremely hard to get the specs off and tried my best with QD and a microfiber. I then applied WGDGPS and after doing so, I noticed there were still some specs. I posted my problem, and the recommendation was to use an IPA wipedown to have the surface clean (remove the specs and show missed polished areas) and ready for the sealant the next time I encountered this problem. The car I was working on was a red mustang. In the picture, the specs I am seeing in places are circled in purple.
 
IPA is good to remove "polishing oils" or filler. Polish splatter and dust is likely best removed by washing the car via 2BM or rinseless wash.
 
IPA is good to remove "polishing oils" or filler. Polish splatter and dust is likely best removed by washing the car via 2BM or rinseless wash.

Excuse my ignorance, what is 2BM? I have optimum rinseless wash so I'll put that to use after Polishing next time.
 
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