IPA wipedown necessary?

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rman

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I'm very new to detailing and do this as a hobby on my own cars. Ive been doing a little bit of research and haven't found a clear answer. I plan on using Meguiars UC and UP followed by WGDGPS 3.0. My question is should I do an IPA wipe down after the UP? Will this help with the bonding process?
 
Yes, what the IPA will do is remove any polishing oils that are still residing on your paint ensuring that the sealant will bond only to the paint for maximum durability.
 
rman said:
I'm very new to detailing and do this as a hobby on my own cars. Ive been doing a little bit of research and haven't found a clear answer. I plan on using Meguiars UC and UP followed by WGDGPS 3.0. My question is should I do an IPA wipe down after the UP? Will this help with the bonding process?
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Nowhere in the directions, instructions, or recommendations for the application of WGDGPS do I find that IPA should be used, prior to said application, to remove polishing oils from a vehicle's paint.

I'm a huge proponent of WGDGPS, and I never
have used IPA in conjunction with its application:
in no way, form, or fashion.


Bob
 
I use Meg's UC and UP followed by WGDGPS on my daily driver with fantastic results. Since your new to the hobby I'd suggest skipping the IPA wipe and instead just give your car a quick wash to remove any leftover residue you may have missed before applying WGDGPS.

How are you going to apply UC and UP? By hand or with a machine?
 
FUNX725 said:
Nowhere in the directions, instructions, or recommendations for the application of WGDGPS do I find that IPA should be used, prior to said application, to remove polishing oils from a vehicle's paint.

I'm a huge proponent of WGDGPS, and I never
have used IPA in conjunction with its application:
in no way, form, or fashion.


Bob
Click to expand...

I'm with Bob on this one. No need to IPA paint that isn't going to be coated.
 
Angus said:
I use Meg's UC and UP followed by WGDGPS on my daily driver with fantastic results. Since your new to the hobby I'd suggest skipping the IPA wipe and instead just give your car a quick wash to remove any leftover residue you may have missed before applying WGDGPS.

How are you going to apply UC and UP? By hand or with a machine?
Click to expand...

It will be by machine. Got myself a cheap HF DA because of a thread I found on this forum and the good reviews it had. :buffing:

Thanks everyone for the quick replies! :xyxthumbs: I see that no IPA wipe down is necessary.
 
As a general rule of thumb, it's better to use a panel wipe (such as IPA) before applying sealants. they will bond better to 'chemically clean' paint, and so longevity is increased. There is no need to do this when applying waxes, as they bond differently and are perfectly happy to sit over glazes, oils and fillers. That's why if you're using both types of products, it's always advisable to apply sealant first and then wax, rather than the other way around.
That said, there are no hard and fast rules in this game, and if you're not that worried about maxing out the longevity of a product then it's really not an issue :xyxthumbs:
 
Niblick said:
As a general rule of thumb, it's better to use a panel wipe (such as IPA) before applying sealants. they will bond better to 'chemically clean' paint, and so longevity is increased. There is no need to do this when applying waxes, as they bond differently and are perfectly happy to sit over glazes, oils and fillers. That's why if you're using both types of products, it's always advisable to apply sealant first and then wax, rather than the other way around.
That said, there are no hard and fast rules in this game, and if you're not that worried about maxing out the longevity of a product then it's really not an issue :xyxthumbs:
Click to expand...

but wait! now I'm confused reading this ^^^post....
I was taught that "glaze first, sealant's atop glazes, and waxes atop sealants".

so, someone please clarify me, cause now I'm "cornfused".
wouldn't putting sealant first, and then glaze be like cleaning your fingernails with a grease pencil..... help :)
mahalo
rob
 
I'm new to detailing as well. I literally just used my hf da polisher for the first time. I washed, clayed and did an ipa wipedown before I applied Collinite 845. Ipa was super easy to do and left the paint "sterile" clean versus the quick detailer layer on the paint from claying. After the ipa, the paint was clean but not slick and I feel gave the Collinite a good surface to bond to.
 
For those who say it is necessary -- how would you go about doing this on very soft black paint without working backwards and potentially marring the paint with the microfiber? Looking for suggestions please.. Thanks
 
The one time I had a problem I used Megs UC followed by UP and then Menzerna PL. It didn't bond very good. The next time I used Chemical Guys EZ Crème after polishing and before sealant and that worked for me.
 
b0b said:
For those who say it is necessary -- how would you go about doing this on very soft black paint without working backwards and potentially marring the paint with the microfiber? Looking for suggestions please.. Thanks
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Use carpro eraser, instead of IPA, with a high quality super soft MF. Good technique, you are not trying to remove compound so no need for a lot of pressure. I read on here that someone posted that it has some chemical in it for lubrication.
I like to use a good amount of eraser on the first panel, and also spraying some on the MF. Might be overkill but it works for me
 
eaglefan said:
Use carpro eraser, instead of IPA, with a high quality super soft MF.
Click to expand...

Agree. I have used it before applying WG DPS..did not have any issues with not sticking, etc. if that is the fear.
 
Niblick said:
As a general rule of thumb, it's better to use a panel wipe (such as IPA) before applying sealants. they will bond better to 'chemically clean' paint, and so longevity is increased. There is no need to do this when applying waxes, as they bond differently and are perfectly happy to sit over glazes, oils and fillers. That's why if you're using both types of products, it's always advisable to apply sealant first and then wax, rather than the other way around.
That said, there are no hard and fast rules in this game, and if you're not that worried about maxing out the longevity of a product then it's really not an issue :xyxthumbs:
Click to expand...

Did you mean IPA before a coating instead?

I'm working a 2006 Mustang in black right now. After I am done cutting I will go over it with polish enhancer before wgdgps, then I will top it with Fuzion. I'm really looking forward to getting this car done!
 
sealant no need for IPA IMO.. I did m205 on 2 Hondas personal DD's and used Opti Seal no wipedown and still beading great! 3.5 months later
 
There's no need to IPA a car before a sealant.

After polishing, you'll want to re-wash the car to remove all of the dust, so that washing will remove most of the oils already.
 
IPA wasn't designed to clean paint, so it has no lubricants in it. I don't understand why anyone would use it when they could use Optimum Power Clean or another dedicated product.
 
b0b said:
For those who say it is necessary -- how would you go about doing this on very soft black paint without working backwards and potentially marring the paint with the microfiber? Looking for suggestions please.. Thanks
Click to expand...
Honestly, that's not an easy task. Google microfiber madness. I'd suggest picking up some of their towels. Highest quality MF I've ever used.

IPA, generally speaking, is very grabby and will marr the paint(especially soft paint). No lubricats in IPA. There's other IPA "mixes" such as CarPro eraser which contain lubricants, but they're still a bit grabby. The best wipedowm mixture I've found(from Mike Stoops of meguiars) is 30 ounces of 20% IPA solution and 2 ounces of Meguairs D114.
 
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