ipa wipedown

[molarman]

is it absolutely necessary to do an ipa wipedown after polishing, and before apply sealant.

 

[daveinsweethome]

you could probably skip it but why. it is easy and full proof and only takes about 5 minutes. i know i miss spots all the time removing polish and this just makes me feel better. my 2 cents worth

 

[DARK HORSE]

is it absolutely necessary to do an ipa wipedown after polishing, and before apply sealant.

Doing an IPA wipe down will give you a true reading of the finish. It will remove any fillers left behind by the polish. This will allow you to see the true level of correction that you achieved. Also it will remove the oils left behind by the polish to ensure a better bond between your paint and your LSP.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Just a warning... recently when doing a test spot I was doing an IPA wipe-down to check the results and some of the Isopropyl Alcohol penetrated under the painter's tape and dwelled while I continued to do some testing. (I had placed a single strip of painter's tape to better show before and after results).

Later when I removed the painter's tape there were two places that the clear paint wrinkled.

This really surprised me as this was a factory clear finish and I was under the assumption that IPA wouldn't cause any harm to the paint.

Luckily, I was able to undo the damage but I wasn't a big fan of doing IPA wipe-downs in the past and I'm even less of a fan now.

So be careful...

 

[Brian_Brice]

Just a warning... recently when doing a test spot I was doing an IPA wipe-down to check the results and some of the Isopropyl Alcohol penetrated under the painter's tape and dwelled while I continued to do some testing. (I had placed a single strip of painter's tape to better show before and after results).

Later when I removed the painter's tape there were two places that the clear paint wrinkled.

This really surprised me as this was a factory clear finish and I was under the assumption that IPA wouldn't cause any harm to the paint.

Luckily, I was able to undo the damage but I wasn't a big fan of doing IPA wipe-downs in the past and I'm even less of a fan now.

So be careful...

Don't you agree that using a solvent of some sort is a great way to make sure your work is what you think it it?

 

[Brian_Brice]

Oh, and that is whacky, I have never experienced something like that glad it happened to you instead of me....no offense.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Don't you agree that using a solvent of some sort is a great way to make sure your work is what you think it it?

Of course it's a good idea to at least check the results of your test spot, (I've been teaching people to do test spots since about 1993 or 1994, when I first started posting to the Internet). I think if you prove your system in your test spot and then duplicate the same process over the rest of the car you should be getting the same results. People can decide for themselves what works best for them.

I've used Mineral Spirits or an APC and never had any problems.

All I'm doing is "sharing" what I saw and experienced, everyone reading this can take from it what they will.

 

[Brian_Brice]

I'm not judging you, just asking

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I'm not judging you, just asking

Didn't think you were. I tend to type for a very wide audience, including lurkers...

The problem of the clear paint softening and wrinkling could have been caused by simply dwelling on the surface or it could have been a chemical reaction of the alcohol and the adhesive, I don't know but I thought I would share this so others could be cautious.

 

[DARK HORSE]

Just a warning... recently when doing a test spot I was doing an IPA wipe-down to check the results and some of the Isopropyl Alcohol penetrated under the painter's tape and dwelled while I continued to do some testing. (I had placed a single strip of painter's tape to better show before and after results).

Later when I removed the painter's tape there were two places that the clear paint wrinkled.

This really surprised me as this was a factory clear finish and I was under the assumption that IPA wouldn't cause any harm to the paint.

Luckily, I was able to undo the damage but I wasn't a big fan of doing IPA wipe-downs in the past and I'm even less of a fan now.

So be careful...

Thank you for sharing this Mike! I have never heard of this being a problem before, nor have I ever had an issue with IPA wipe downs... How were you able to undo the damage? Also when you use APC to check your work, what is your process? (i.e. What is the dilution ratio, and do you just spray it on from a hand sprayer and wipe it off like doing an IPA wipedown?)

 

[Big Turkey]

I tend to have trouble getting the IPA to come off completely with 1-2 wipes, so I generally spray the IPA onto a towel, wipe, then take another towel and wipe so I can get a clear look at the correction. I have found this works better for me rather than spraying the IPA directly onto the paint.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Thank you for sharing this Mike! I have never heard of this being a problem before, nor have I ever had an issue with IPA wipe downs...

I have never heard of or seen this happen before either that's why it surprised me.

How were you able to undo the damage?

Very carefully by hand using M105 and a foam applicator pad.

Also when you use APC to check your work, what is your process? (i.e. What is the dilution ratio, and do you just spray it on from a hand sprayer and wipe it off like doing an IPA wipe-down?)

I use MS more than anything because I like how it wipes off. APC's tend to make the paint look smeary like IPA and you have to wipe more to get clear, no smear finish. If I use an APC I will spray it on and wipe it off using a microfiber towel.

I don't know the dilution levels for other APC's only Meguiar's as I had to get this from Jason Rose accuracy reasons... You can use either APC or APC+ to remove or strip car waxes and paint sealants from your car's paint. This is technically for what's called de-waxing but the same principals apply to removing any unwanted film or residual polshing oils off the surface for inspection.

64:1 For a regular car wax type products
20:1 For hi-tech polymer type products


It's also recommended to chemically strip paint before damp-sanding to insure not chemicals sand off and load-up or contaminate your paper or discs.


It's a good idea to test any product on any coating if you've never worked on it before and you're unfamiliar with it.

 

[DARK HORSE]

I have never heard of or seen this happen before either that's why it surprised me.



Very carefully by hand using M105 and a foam applicator pad.



I use MS more than anything because I like how it wipes off. APC's tend to make the paint look smeary like IPA and you have to wipe more to get clear, no smear finish. If I use an APC I will spray it on and wipe it off using a microfiber towel.

I don't know the dilution levels for other APC's only Meguiar's as I had to get this from Jason Rose accuracy reasons... You can use either APC or APC+ to remove or strip car waxes and paint sealants from your car's paint. This is technically for what's called de-waxing but the same principals apply to removing any unwanted film or residual polshing oils off the surface for inspection.

64:1 For a regular car wax type products
20:1 For hi-tech polymer type products


It's also recommended to chemically strip paint before damp-sanding to insure not chemicals sand off and load-up or contaminate your paper or discs.


It's a good idea to test any product on any coating if you've never worked on it before and you're unfamiliar with it.

Thanks for the input and quick response Mike!

 

[Al1515]

Sorry for the newb question, but what is the purpose of the polish and why do they put oils in the polish if all one does right afterwards is clean it off? I guess some polishes have very mild correction ability, and one could use it for this, but otherwise, when would you use polish? The oils and fillers in the polish will help the paint look good, but then we are talking about removing all of it anyway, so I am not sure what the polish application will accomplish.

I have some polishes at home, and I would like to use them, but I am not sure when I really need to use them. Often I am strapped for time with the detail, so after washing, +/- claying, +/- using swirl remover or other similar correcting substance, I may go straight to the LSP. The paint seems to look great with this process. The polish ends up getting skipped. I would like to incorporate it, but I am not sure how or when.

BTW, the family cars are the main ones that I detail - 2004 Honda Pilot and 2008 Acura TL-S.

Thanks to all.

-Al

 

[molarman]

mike, thanks for the quick reply. it seems that as long as u follow the steps recommended and do a test spot initially, then the final finish will look much better, esp. for most of us who are not professional detailers nor have show cars.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Sorry for the newb question, but what is the purpose of the polish and why do they put oils in the polish if all one does right afterwards is clean it off?


-Al

Great question.... how's this for an answer?

Polishing paint is an art form

(You can quote me on that)


Oils lubricate the surface, something I tell people all the time is that when detailing a car, you're not just GRINDING ON THE PAINT. You're trying to create beauty.

Paint and especially clear coat paints are thin, delicate coatings that are easily scratched and dulled and once scratched and dulled will require the right products, pads, tools and techniques PLUS the human elements of care and passion to restore to a crystal clear, high gloss finish.

Certain oils can also do other things, check out this article,

The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints



Look for the text above and below this picture...

But the above is the short answer... the oils lubricate the surface and cushion or buffer the abrading effect of the abrasives. Otherwise you would simply scour the finish.

I've seen people for YEARS refer to oils and fillers and while some oils may fill, in a professional quality product the purpose of the oil in any abrading product is to lubricate the surface, not merely to fill.

This is a horrible analogy but here goes... how long would the engine in your car run if you removed the lubricating oil and replaced the oil with water?

Here's an experiment, get some abrasives, mix them with water, pour some on a clear coat finish machine buff the paint.

Also, water-based doesn't mean oil-free and oil-based doesn't mean water-free.


Lubricating oils are a good thing...

Good questions.

 

[Brian_Brice]

Man Mike, I don't envy the forum part of the job you have. You do a great job of answering many questions, kudo's are you on call with a forum beeper as well?

 

[CEE DOG]

Thanks for sharing that caution Mike!

I don't IPA the whole car. Something about alcohol on my paint just doesn't make me feel great. I do IPA a few times on the test spot and first couple sections of the hood.

After getting the whole car right I clean the paint with a paint cleanser type product before sealing. Of course the IPA would actually be easier...

What do you guys think about ONR wipedown instead of alcohol? Not strong enough to remove the oils?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

are you on call with a forum beeper as well?

Spidy senses... runs in the family...

 

[Bunky]

I just tried a sample of Griot's Pre-wax Cleaner. It is citrus based (smells like oranges). It did seem easier to remove (felt better) than using IPA. I have no way to compare to effectiveness but I think I used less in the end.