iron x after full detail??

[Qusai]

For the past couple months, i've been slowly but surely getting around every square inch of paint on my altima(black) by doing one panel at a time. I began thinking too hard since im pretty damn paranoid about never using iron x before i started to detail and seal my work. If i do end up ordering some iron x, i would like to know how to use it on paint? And what would be recommended for me to do at this point after i detailed the last panel on my car(complete polish/seal whole car)?Feed back please

Thank you!

 

[PiPUK]

Iron-X and equivalents should be used before the polish and sealing stages.

 

[mwoolfso]

Use IronX after your between the wash and clay steps. You can use IronX after claying but it is more efficient beforehand and will increase the life of your clay and lube.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Iron-X and equivalents should be used before the polish and sealing stages.

Agreed...


If you want to decontaminate car paint then you would,

Wash and rinse the car like normal
Remove any excess water off the car
Spray the IronX onto a panel and allow it to dwell for 3-5 minutes without letting it dry
Rewash the panel and then rinse the panel
Move to a new panel.

Another option is to get the IronX paste as this is a gel and it will cling to vertical panels better and offer longer dwelling time without drying like the spray-on version.


I like the idea of decontaminating paint to key word, ensure any and all iron particles or other ferrous metal contaminants are removed before doing any other steps and this is especially true for any daily driver that's parked outside a lot and a few years old.

The tricky part if using the spray-on version is allowing the IronX to dwell on a panel to do it's work without having it dry. That's why I would work one panel at at time because you can maintain your focus on a single panel and if you see any areas starting to dry re-wet or re-spray with another mist of IronX.

It's hard to see the bleeding effect on dark colors. When you rinse though, if there were some type of iron contamination then you'll see it in the run-off water on the concrete when you rinse the car.


IF you're already past the point of decontaminating for iron particles because you've clayed the car and have moved onto polishing and waxing steps then it's kind of too late for doing any type of iron decontamination unless you're okay with starting the polishing process over again.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Use IronX after your between the wash and clay steps.

The most important reason to use the IronX after washing but before claying is to dissolve the iron particles before claying so you remove them before claying.

If you don't remove iron particles before claying then you risk removing them with the clay and then via the clay, grinding them into your paint causing scratches.

The entire idea behind using IronX on car body panels is to remove the possibility of iron particle in the paint so they wont' cause problems in all the next steps.

 

[Chris@AutoCleanse]

The most important reason to use the IronX after washing but before claying is to dissolve the iron particles before claying so you remove them before claying.

If you don't remove iron particles before claying then you risk removing them with the clay and then via the clay, grinding them into your paint causing scratches.

The entire idea behind using IronX on car body panels is to remove the possibility of iron particle in the paint so they wont' cause problems in all the next steps.

Any suggestion on how to prevent or going about keep it off brake calipers and wheel weights.


Note: Iron X should not be used on chrome, bare metal parts, brake calipers, wheel balancing weights, or SMART paint repairs. Mask off these areas. Avoid letting Iron X dry on any surface.

 

[Qusai]

Thank you for such valuable information everybody! So since I completed my detail, would it even be necessary to ever use the iron x on my car if i just wanted to strip and reapply an lsp on it?? Thank you

 

[PiPUK]

Thank you for such valuable information everybody! So since I completed my detail, would it even be necessary to ever use the iron x on my car if i just wanted to strip and reapply an lsp on it?? Thank you

Yup, really you won't need it until you strip back and start again.

Another option is to get the IronX paste as this is a gel and it will cling to vertical panels better and offer longer dwelling time without drying like the spray-on version.

The tricky part if using the spray-on version is allowing the IronX to dwell on a panel to do it's work without having it dry. That's why I would work one panel at at time because you can maintain your focus on a single panel and if you see any areas starting to dry re-wet or re-spray with another mist of IronX.

I won't link to other products but here in the UK there are several alternatives to IX, one of which is a sprayable gel which addresses much of what you say. Do you guys not have home grown products competing with IX?

 

[FUNX650]

Do you guys not have home grown products competing with IX?

1.) There's ValuGard's "A-B-C" (Neutralization) Kit...which I rate 5 out of 5-Stars.

2.) Finish Kare's Paint Decontamination System...little more "harsher" than: 1.) above

Finish Kare Paint Decontamination System, auto paint cleaning system, de-contamination solution


{Both: 1) & 2.) = Better decontamination-systems than any IX products...IMHO.}


Bob

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Any suggestion on how to prevent or going about keep it off brake calipers and wheel weights.


Note: Iron X should not be used on chrome, bare metal parts, brake calipers, wheel balancing weights, or SMART paint repairs. Mask off these areas. Avoid letting Iron X dry on any surface.

Sure, requires a lot of work though...

Remove the wheels before washing them. Be sure to use safety jack stands to support car while wheels are off.

As for the actual wheel weights you'll just have to be creative. Clean and cover with clear paint, or tape, or ???

If they're behind the wheel and out of sight then not sure it matters...

Thank you for such valuable information everybody!

AGO is a very user-friendly forum...

So since I completed my detail, would it even be necessary to ever use the iron x on my car if i just wanted to strip and reapply an lsp on it?? Thank you

I'd let it go myself...

Do the IronX treatment on the next car after washing and rinsing but before claying or on this current car when the paint goes downhill enough that you're going to machine buff the paint again...

 

[PiPUK]

Thanks FUNX725. I guess those are indeed alternatives rather than replacements for IX - they are strong pH based cleaners rather than pH neutral. Over here in the UK there are those who favour a similar approach to fallout removal (i.e. acids) but it is interesting to note that they do not concern themselves with the neutralisation - whether that means you guys are doing something un-necessary or the guys in the UK are failing to do a necessary step, I would not like to say.

I actually meant bleeding, pH neutral, 'safe' products. As I say, we have several manufactured here in UK & Ireland but I haven't heard much of US manufactured products.

 

[Detailingdoc]

Also been wondering but has anybody had success using products like IRON X or even Griots paint prep if you are unable to rinse or do a traditional wash?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Do you guys not have home grown products competing with IX?

No household name brands or products come to mind, looks like an opportunity knocking on some chemist's door...


:dunno:

 

[Avi@CarPro]

Any suggestion on how to prevent or going about keep it off brake calipers and wheel weights.


Note: Iron X should not be used on chrome, bare metal parts, brake calipers, wheel balancing weights, or SMART paint repairs. Mask off these areas. Avoid letting Iron X dry on any surface.

you have mistake there!

IronX can be used on Chrome without any problem, bare metal as well, on calipers need to be careful with aftermarket painted ones, which are mostly acrylic water base paints,
wheel balancers can be easy brushed and turn back to there grey color.
Ironx can dry on the surface , just not under the sun light.
please read it all info at our site :

Car Pro Professional Car Coatings

about the other so called iron removers over the UK,most of them are made by one producer factory, no one has the same power grade of iron removing as IronX there, some of them damaging plastic surface !, and this was tested well by many detailers there. thats why IronX is the most popular among all detailers over the UK.
another note to remember , not any color changing cleaner is strong enough to remove iron dots from car paint !!

 

[VISITOR]

you have mistake there!

IronX can be used on Chrome without any problem, bare metal as well, on calipers need to be careful with aftermarket painted ones, which are mostly acrylic water base paints,
wheel balancers can be easy brushed and turn back to there grey color.
Ironx can dry on the surface , just not under the sun light.
please read it all info at our site :

Car Pro Professional Car Coatings

about the other so called iron removers over the UK,most of them are made by one producer factory, no one has the same power grade of iron removing as IronX there, some of them damaging plastic surface !, and this was tested well by many detailers there. thats why IronX is the most popular among all detailers over the UK.
another note to remember , not any color changing cleaner is strong enough to remove iron dots from car paint !!

good info there avi, thanks for clarifying...

 

[Blackthorn One]

Any suggestion on how to prevent or going about keep it off brake calipers and wheel weights.


Note: Iron X should not be used on chrome, bare metal parts, brake calipers, wheel balancing weights, or SMART paint repairs. Mask off these areas. Avoid letting Iron X dry on any surface.

Big plastic bags over the wheels or plastic sheets over them. I think that should do it.

 

[Chris@AutoCleanse]

Big plastic bags over the wheels or plastic sheets over them. I think that should do it.

But in these videos of iron x they use the wheel as an example of use of the product. Nothing is covered but under the product discription they state otherwise, just curious of the people that used it what they did and they affects of the outcome.

 

[mwoolfso]

The most important reason to use the IronX after washing but before claying is to dissolve the iron particles before claying so you remove them before claying.

If you don't remove iron particles before claying then you risk removing them with the clay and then via the clay, grinding them into your paint causing scratches.

The entire idea behind using IronX on car body panels is to remove the possibility of iron particle in the paint so they wont' cause problems in all the next steps.

I think you are agreeing with me; albeit with more detail.