Iron X... enlighten me...

Nicholas@Autowerx said:
Once you have determined that there are no negative effects with a test spot as the bottle recommends (there won't be any) just spray down the whole car. Monitor the bleeding and make sure it doesn't dry on the paint. Once it has been allowed to dwell, agitate with a soapy wash mitt and allow to dwell further.

Follow this process with a thorough rinse and then your clay job will be so much faster and easier.
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Thanx .:)
 
Nicholas@Autowerx said:
Once you have determined that there are no negative effects with a test spot as the bottle recommends (there won't be any) just spray down the whole car. Monitor the bleeding and make sure it doesn't dry on the paint. Once it has been allowed to dwell, agitate with a soapy wash mitt and allow to dwell further.

Follow this process with a thorough rinse and then your clay job will be so much faster and easier.
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I've seen some people just spray the paint down, let dwell a few minutes, and then hose it all off. Is that a good method?

Also, are plastics easily affected by Iron X?
 
TH3M B0N3Z said:
I've seen some people just spray the paint down, let dwell a few minutes, and then hose it all off. Is that a good method?

Also, are plastics easily affected by Iron X?
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That would work too. I usually see more bleeding after agitating so I like to let the Iron-X chemical dwell as long as possible. I've also wondered about snow foaming the whole vehicle again (instead of agitating with a soapy mitt) to help re-wet the Iron-X and let it dwell longer.

I've never noticed any part on a car getting damaged from Iron-X. The only thing that I have ever seen happen is certain wheel balancing weights turning green. It's reversible though just with APC or a wheel cleaner of your choice so not an issue I typically worry about.
 
Can someone educate me on the difference between the Iron x iron remover, Iron-x soap gel and Iron X Paste? I want to do make my claying job easier, which one of these three is the one to get for the paint on my new truck? Thanks
 
Shaggy1970 said:
Can someone educate me on the difference between the Iron x iron remover, Iron-x soap gel and Iron X Paste? I want to do make my claying job easier, which one of these three is the one to get for the paint on my new truck? Thanks
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Iron-X spray and paste are more concentrated than the soap gel. The paste is good if you need a longer dwell time for heavily contaminated paint. The spray is nice because you can get it into complicated wheel designs and is easier and faster to use on larger vehicles.

The soap gel is intended to be used as a way to maintain your vehicle to consistently keep it free of the damaging effects of ferrous iron particles. I think the soap gel will strip "normal" waxes and sealants if used in strong dilutions. It is mainly designed to be used in conjunction with CarPro's C.Quartz coatings (as these coatings are not stripped with strong soaps like normal wax or sealant).
 
Nicholas@Autowerx said:
Iron-X spray and paste are more concentrated than the soap gel. The paste is good if you need a longer dwell time for heavily contaminated paint. The spray is nice because you can get it into complicated wheel designs and is easier and faster to use on larger vehicles.

The soap gel is intended to be used as a way to maintain your vehicle to consistently keep it free of the damaging effects of ferrous iron particles. I think the soap gel will strip "normal" waxes and sealants if used in strong dilutions. It is mainly designed to be used in conjunction with CarPro's C.Quartz coatings (as these coatings are not stripped with strong soaps like normal wax or sealant).
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Thanks Nick,
Would you put the full strength Iron X spray on new paint, or would you save that for the wheels and such, and buy the soap gel that is diluted down for the paint?
 
I`m interested in ironX. I read that you shouldn`t get the ironX on brake parts such as calipers etc. Can someone comment on this.
 
jimjc said:
I`m interested in ironX. I read that you shouldn`t get the ironX on brake parts such as calipers etc. Can someone comment on this.
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Think I read somewhere that is dis-colors Chrome and aluminum including the balancing weights on the tires.
 
Nicholas@Autowerx said:
Iron-X spray and paste are more concentrated than the soap gel. The paste is good if you need a longer dwell time for heavily contaminated paint. The spray is nice because you can get it into complicated wheel designs and is easier and faster to use on larger vehicles.

The soap gel is intended to be used as a way to maintain your vehicle to consistently keep it free of the damaging effects of ferrous iron particles. I think the soap gel will strip "normal" waxes and sealants if used in strong dilutions. It is mainly designed to be used in conjunction with CarPro's C.Quartz coatings (as these coatings are not stripped with strong soaps like normal wax or sealant).
Click to expand...

I only use the snow soap when I am going to add another layer of sealant, for example, 60 days after my spring tear down and full detail, sealed with BF WDAFPP and CS, I did a full hand wash starting with snow soap in a foam master. Then did my normal 2BM and re-applied the BF CS.
 
I am doing a white GMC Yukon for a friend and the right side of the truck is stained really bad from sprinklers that use ground water. Some of the staining almost looks rust on top of the paint and some of it has the look of a oil slick on top of water. I tried using a cleaner wax, didn't really touch it, then I used M105. The M105 got maybe 80% but there are still some spots that seem to be deeper in the paint. Would Iron X or a similar product help in this situation. Thank you for any help you can give.
 
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