Is a rotary THAT dangerous for a rookie?

Like said above and I have said this numerous times on forums it isn't the tool, it is the one working the tool that causes the problems. Patients, common sense, and some practice you will be fine.
 
If you think that a Flex DA will get the job done almost as fast as a rotary...then you don't know how to use a rotary.:buffing:

Trust me I know how to use a rotary.Carefully read what I said .Depending upon paint condition.
 
My advice would be to go with the Flex 3401. It's the best tool for great results in the hands of a beginner, and I don't think anyone can argue with that.

As mentioned, you almost need to try to screw up paint with a 3401 - especially hard Corvette paint.

With that being said, I would get the 3401 now, and in the future, if you still have the itch to master rotary technique, pick one up and use it on your beater several times. For the most part it's not too hard, but it would be a good idea to get some "seat time" before taking it to a nice car, since it can be pretty easy to burn edges and whatnot. If you plan to go this route, I would also try to find someone in your area who can teach you some rotary technique, or look up some videos/how-tos online. Maybe we can get Mike Phillips to help us out here... ;) ;)
 
Like said above and I have said this numerous times on forums it isn't the tool, it is the one working the tool that causes the problems. Patients, common sense, and some practice you will be fine.

That's right. A rotary buffer has the potential to cause problems but it starts in the hands of the person using it.

The best way to learn how to use a rotary buffer is to practice on cars that are NOT IMPORTANT to anyone. The worst thing to do is to try to learn on a black Corvette or Viper. I learned how to use a rotary buffer after painting my first car so I obtained hand-on learning on something that was important to me. At the time I didn't have a forum to offer me any advice.

Anyone reading this, if you decide to learn the way of the rotary buffer, besides getting a rotary buffer, find a car that no one cares about that you can practice on.


Ordered it from AG yesterday. :buffing:

Congrats.

If you have a car you would rather drive than your Vette from Pasadena to Apple Valley you're still welcome to come by and I'll do my best to show you some tips and techniques with the rotary and the Dual Action Polisher. I also have a Cyclo with me but no 3401


:)
 
That's right. A rotary buffer has the potential to cause problems but it starts in the hands of the person using it.

The best way to learn how to use a rotary buffer is to practice on cars that are NOT IMPORTANT to anyone. The worst thing to do is to try to learn on a black Corvette or Viper. I learned how to use a rotary buffer after painting my first car so I obtained hand-on learning on something that was important to me. At the time I didn't have a forum to offer me any advice.

Anyone reading this, if you decide to learn the way of the rotary buffer, besides getting a rotary buffer, find a car that no one cares about that you can practice on.




Congrats.

If you have a car you would rather drive than your Vette from Pasadena to Apple Valley you're still welcome to come by and I'll do my best to show you some tips and techniques with the rotary and the Dual Action Polisher. I also have a Cyclo with me but no 3401


:)
What, no 3401. The Training Director should have all tools and products at his disposal. We need to talk to Max about this.
 
If you are just trying to maintain one car that is already in good shape, then a rotary isn't worth it. It would be like using a canon to kill a mosquito. A DA will not only keep your car well polished, but you can also use it to apply sealants and waxes, which is something that you wouldn't necessarily want to do with a rotary. Unless you are trying to run a business, then there really isn't a reason to have a rotary to maintain a relatively new car that is already in good shape.
 
What, no 3401. The Training Director should have all tools and products at his disposal. We need to talk to Max about this.

Traveling light. I also have one day to do this car and I have not seen the finish quality yet. I've been told it's been sanded and buffed by someone?

That means it's really really nice!

Or

It has tracers or pigtails and it has rotary buffer swirls.


It could be it's flawless but my instincts tell me probably not. Either way, since I'm 3000 miles from home I'm traveling light. I evaluated my options and decided that the minimum tools I would need would be a rotary buffer and a dual action polisher.

:)
 
Traveling light. I also have one day to do this car and I have not seen the finish quality yet. I've been told it's been sanded and buffed by someone?

That means it's really really nice!

Or

It has tracers or pigtails and it has rotary buffer swirls.


It could be it's flawless but my instincts tell me probably not. Either way, since I'm 3000 miles from home I'm traveling light. I evaluated my options and decided that the minimum tools I would need would be a rotary buffer and a dual action polisher.

:)
Good luck on your detail..although you don't need luck, just the skills you have. Cross country for a detail..awesome.:buffing:
 
If you are just trying to maintain one car that is already in good shape, then a rotary isn't worth it. It would be like using a canon to kill a mosquito. A DA will not only keep your car well polished, but you can also use it to apply sealants and waxes, which is something that you wouldn't necessarily want to do with a rotary. Unless you are trying to run a business, then there really isn't a reason to have a rotary to maintain a relatively new car that is already in good shape.

I see your point, but as a non-professional who also enjoys his rotary, I can tell you I'm not going to give up any of my polishers anytime soon. A lot of time, I have a certain window of time to work on my cars. Maybe an afternoon, maybe a three-day weekend. With the right tools, I can get more done in that same time.
 
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