Is It Worth Upgrading From 7424XP TO GG6?

[Champ]

Plain and simple question.

I have the 7424XP. I've done my fair searching before I asked this question.

The consensus is that the GG6 is better, but the 7424XP is not bad. Since I've not done a correction in sometime, I am trying to sway away from the Flex.

Is it worth it to spend the extra money on this upgrade?

Purchased two new cars and both of them need a 2-step.

I don't mind the 7424XP, but, if I remember correctly, it took 20-30 minutes per panel, if not more. GG6 is more powerful. It seems to me that the Flex would solve my problem, but I'm afraid that I may end up burning the paint or damaging the vehicle so that is why I am limiting myself to more newb-friendly buffers. Fatigue was also a big factor when using the 7424XP and the vibration.

Any advice/recommendations is much appreciated. Thanks

 

[k20trick]

imo anything with high speed can burn paint its probably the user behind the tool will cause it.... Im not pro here, but if I were to step up from pc finding a griots which is similar in many ways wouldnt be too much of an upgrade. There are flexs/rupes that are game changers and imo those are worthy upgrades.

 

[ski2]

Why not equip the PC with a 3" backing plate for tight areas and get something like a GG Boss 15. Still a random orbital so very safe, very smooth so less fatigue and corrects faster bkz of the larger orbit.

Another thought if you want to just keep the PC is to equip it with some of the new very thin pads which make it more effective with less stalling.

 

[Mantilgh]

I think that's a good answer ski2.

If price is a concern, then I would go with just upgrading your pads depending on what you already have.

It it may make a bigger difference.

Make sure you are using a good quality compound and polish too. It doesn't have to be super fancy/expensive, but good. The BOSS Creams or Meguiars Ultimate combo would be fine.

 

[UltraDetail]

Why not equip the PC with a 3" backing plate for tight areas and get something like a GG Boss 15. Still a random orbital so very safe, very smooth so less fatigue and corrects faster bkz of the larger orbit.

Another thought if you want to just keep the PC is to equip it with some of the new very thin pads which make it more effective with less stalling.

This is exactly what I would like to do. I did some research and figured this is my best option for now.

 

[MarkD51]

Why not equip the PC with a 3" backing plate for tight areas and get something like a GG Boss 15. Still a random orbital so very safe, very smooth so less fatigue and corrects faster bkz of the larger orbit.

Another thought if you want to just keep the PC is to equip it with some of the new very thin pads which make it more effective with less stalling.

This is what I'd probably do myself if I was looking to go past the PC7424XP.

Tough choices I know, because after just typing that above, I'm later saying, "well that Flex is truly a workhorse, and the Rupes sound like such a smooth machine too." LOL

As for warrantee, you cannot beat Griots Garage.

 

[Champ]

imo anything with high speed can burn paint its probably the user behind the tool will cause it.... Im not pro here, but if I were to step up from pc finding a griots which is similar in many ways wouldnt be too much of an upgrade. There are flexs/rupes that are game changers and imo those are worthy upgrades.

Exactly why I want to sway away from it, because I do not have enough confidence just yet, although, I don't believe I'd burn the paint.

Why not equip the PC with a 3" backing plate for tight areas and get something like a GG Boss 15. Still a random orbital so very safe, very smooth so less fatigue and corrects faster bkz of the larger orbit.

Another thought if you want to just keep the PC is to equip it with some of the new very thin pads which make it more effective with less stalling.

Is the GG Boss 15 the one that is similar in price to the Flex? Do you have any recommendations in pads that I should use? I believe I have a 5" backing plate.

I think that's a good answer ski2.

If price is a concern, then I would go with just upgrading your pads depending on what you already have.

It it may make a bigger difference.

Make sure you are using a good quality compound and polish too. It doesn't have to be super fancy/expensive, but good. The BOSS Creams or Meguiars Ultimate combo would be fine.

Price is a moderate concern.

Which pads do you recommend? I normally use M105/M205. I use the M205 first then the M105 (unless the area needs major correcting).

One question though: Do polishes/compound expire? My M105/M205 is roughly 2-3 years old since I bought the 32oz and have a lot leftover.

 

[RatZ1LLa]

I only have a PC 7424XP right now, and my choice will be going to a long throw machine (Boss G15 or G21). I feel the GG6 is only side step in correction ability unlike a large step forward with a larger orbiting machine. The reduced noise and vibration of the Rupes/Boss line is what is really drawing me in over the 7424XP. If you don't plan on doing paint correction outside of your own vehicles, I would stick with the 7424XP and maybe grab some Lake Country ThinPro pads.

 

[MarkD51]

Plain and simple question.

I have the 7424XP. I've done my fair searching before I asked this question.

The consensus is that the GG6 is better, but the 7424XP is not bad. Since I've not done a correction in sometime, I am trying to sway away from the Flex.

Is it worth it to spend the extra money on this upgrade?

Purchased two new cars and both of them need a 2-step.

I don't mind the 7424XP, but, if I remember correctly, it took 20-30 minutes per panel, if not more. GG6 is more powerful. It seems to me that the Flex would solve my problem, but I'm afraid that I may end up burning the paint or damaging the vehicle so that is why I am limiting myself to more newb-friendly buffers. Fatigue was also a big factor when using the 7424XP and the vibration.

Any advice/recommendations is much appreciated. Thanks

Sorry, that I forgot to mention, welcome to the forum! Enjoy your stay.

Others mention the importance of pads, and there has been some nice additions of thin Pads from various makers lately.

I see you mention the 2 vehicles, and wishing to do 2-step processes on both. With that said, and you're not a professional, but more a hobbyist as myself, I really don't see huge gobs of time saved on just you're own personal vehicles.

A professional then yes, because time can equate to money.

Sure, a forced rotation machine like the Flex 3401 is not bogging down period. But the section passes will still need to be done, regardless.

Thin pads and good technique will help with making the PC DA a better, more efficient machine to use.

Other factors are too, what polishes are being used? And then dialing in what is needed. As Mike P would say, try to simplify processes as much as possible, and to not work backwards.

Some modern polish types are so good and technically advanced, that they can often be just one step products which will remove heavier swirls and sleeks, yet still finish down so beautifully that no further work might need to be done.

Such a product I've found that does this impeccably, is Wolfgang Uber Compound. I've found that it finishes down just as nicely as Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover, yet has the ability to remove deeper swirls, and damage.

YMMV.

 

[kevincwelch]

I have no experience with the Porter Cable.

The GG6 was my first DA polisher. Two things can be said about the PC and the GG6 - they are both very good instruments. It's interesting to me to see that with all the great new polishers out there, I still see people like Mike Phillips periodically using the PC in even some of his most up to date videos and details. This suggests to me that the PC can still hold its own when it comes to paint correction.

I echo some of the other sentiments here: it could be the compound/polish selection; it could be pad selection (the thinner pads are easier to work with); it could be technique. It could be any combination of the above.

For me, the GG6 did an excellent job, but I wanted something faster and more en vogue, so I eventually went with the Rupes 15 and the Flex. I converted my GG6 to one with a 3 inch backing plate and used it for the tighter areas. Now I have a Rupes Mini, so I sold my GG6/3.

If money is not a concern (relatively speaking), then I'd upgrade to one of the BOSS polishers or the Rupes line. Since they aren't forced rotation like the Flex, I think you'd be less likely (but definitely can burn -- you can do that with a PC too!) to burn through the paint. Then convert your PC to a 3 inch polisher.

Alternately, since the PC is still a respected device, maybe invest a little in some new pads and different polishes to see if that's the issue.

Also - I agree with what's been said about the GG warranty. It amazes me that GG replaces polishers that at times have seemed to be more user-related failure than manufacture-related failure. All around, it's a great company.

 

[Champ]

Sorry, that I forgot to mention, welcome to the forum! Enjoy your stay.

Others mention the importance of pads, and there has been some nice additions of thin Pads from various makers lately.

I see you mention the 2 vehicles, and wishing to do 2-step processes on both. With that said, and you're not a professional, but more a hobbyist as myself, I really don't see huge gobs of time saved on just you're own personal vehicles.

A professional then yes, because time can equate to money.

Sure, a forced rotation machine like the Flex 3401 is not bogging down period. But the section passes will still need to be done, regardless.

Thin pads and good technique will help with making the PC DA a better, more efficient machine to use.

Other factors are too, what polishes are being used? And then dialing in what is needed. As Mike P would say, try to simplify processes as much as possible, and to not work backwards.

Some modern polish types are so good and technically advanced, that they can often be just one step products which will remove heavier swirls and sleeks, yet still finish down so beautifully that no further work might need to be done.

Such a product I've found that does this impeccably, is Wolfgang Uber Compound. I've found that it finishes down just as nicely as Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover, yet has the ability to remove deeper swirls, and damage.

YMMV.

Thank you! Do you think M105/M205 is sufficient or the Prima line of products?

Also are these the pads everyone is recommending (thin)? Lake Country 5 1/2 x 7/8 inch Beveled Edge Pads 6 Pack, foam pad kit, build a kit, buffing pads, curved edge pads Or is it this: http://www.autogeek.net/hydrotech-low-profile-3pack.html

I have no experience with the Porter Cable.

The GG6 was my first DA polisher. Two things can be said about the PC and the GG6 - they are both very good instruments. It's interesting to me to see that with all the great new polishers out there, I still see people like Mike Phillips periodically using the PC in even some of his most up to date videos and details. This suggests to me that the PC can still hold its own when it comes to paint correction.

I echo some of the other sentiments here: it could be the compound/polish selection; it could be pad selection (the thinner pads are easier to work with); it could be technique. It could be any combination of the above.

For me, the GG6 did an excellent job, but I wanted something faster and more en vogue, so I eventually went with the Rupes 15 and the Flex. I converted my GG6 to one with a 3 inch backing plate and used it for the tighter areas. Now I have a Rupes Mini, so I sold my GG6/3.

If money is not a concern (relatively speaking), then I'd upgrade to one of the BOSS polishers or the Rupes line. Since they aren't forced rotation like the Flex, I think you'd be less likely (but definitely can burn -- you can do that with a PC too!) to burn through the paint. Then convert your PC to a 3 inch polisher.

Alternately, since the PC is still a respected device, maybe invest a little in some new pads and different polishes to see if that's the issue.

Also - I agree with what's been said about the GG warranty. It amazes me that GG replaces polishers that at times have seemed to be more user-related failure than manufacture-related failure. All around, it's a great company.

I may just that. Imma go a second run with the PC and see how it goes. If it isn't good enough, then I'll go ahead and upgrade to the BOSS/Rupes.

Were these the pads you were mentioning (thin)? Lake Country 5 1/2 x 7/8 inch Beveled Edge Pads 6 Pack, foam pad kit, build a kit, buffing pads, curved edge pads Or is it this: http://www.autogeek.net/hydrotech-low-profile-3pack.html

 

[JustJesus]

Champ, take the easy/cheaper approach first. Good quality pads and polishes. Thin is good for the PC. Microfiber discs (like Megs MF Cut discs) are good for compounding when coupled with the right stuff (Like Megs D300). Thin pads and good quality polishes make this machine more efficient. And it's cheaper than buying a whole new machine!! WAY cheaper. So try that first. You can always use those pads /polishes on the new machine if you decide to go that way.

And if saving time is a concern, and you're not a pro (you mentioned two new cars?) I recall that Larry of AMMO NYC did a video comparing the GG6 with a Rupes. The Rupes was just minutes faster over a section of a panel. In other words, don't expect to save a bunch of hours from one of the newer long throw machines when you're only working on your own cars.

 

[RatZ1LLa]

I would look into these pads, Champ. Lake Country ThinPro Foam Pad System 5.5"

 

[Mantilgh]

The LC ThinPros linked above are the ones being recommended. I haven't tried them, but I've heard nothing but good things about them.

I just picked up the Griots BOSS pads during the holiday sales. Same as above, well recommended. I only really had the opportunity to use the microfiber ones so far. Just did some test spots with the white Correcting pad. The BOSS microfiber ones are very user friendly so far.

 

[MarkD51]

Thank you! Do you think M105/M205 is sufficient or the Prima line of products?

Also are these the pads everyone is recommending (thin)? Lake Country 5 1/2 x 7/8 inch Beveled Edge Pads 6 Pack, foam pad kit, build a kit, buffing pads, curved edge pads Or is it this: Lake Country Hydro-Tech 5 1/2 x 7/8 Inch Foam Pads 3 Pack - Your Choice!

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Champ, The Meguiars products you mention are very good. I've used M205 but never M105. They say M105 can be sort of "dusty" to use. But M205 is an excellent, versatile finishing polish, and works very well.

I have both the 7/8" Thin LC, and the newer LC Thinpro Pads in 5.5" diameter with a 5" Backing Plate. Either Pads work well, and are durable, well made Pads.

Yes, you can kill rotation with any free-wheeling DA, the PC, the Rupes, the Griots, but that does give a bit of a safety margin because of such, that with such machines it then becomes quite difficult to damage paint by burning. The Flex 3401 is a horse of another color though, it "can" burn through paint if used improperly, just like a rotary buffer-polisher can.

Free wheeling DA's become a little more challenging to use on curves, or dips in panels, that rotation can cease, but with good attention to technique, one can lessen such from occurring. It all depends largely upon how the Pad's surface is held to any given panel. And to lesser extents, Pad thickness, over-saturated Pads, and speed chosen.

Speeds 3-4 on a Porter Cable DA with just about any pad will basically only offer the ability to spread products on a panel, or for applying waxes-sealants, where rotation is not needed, either to apply, or remove if you convert the PC with a Pad and the appropriate sized Terry, or MF Bonnets.

If for say, no joy with the PC DA, the 5.5" Pad Size can be used upon the Griots Boss 15 with the proper sized Backing Plate they make. Then use the PC for tighter areas, with the smaller Backing Plates available, and compatible Pads. This makes for a more efficient and faster correction process, where you simply put down one machine and pick up another.

 

[MarkD51]

Keep in mind, that it can prove difficult to say "Oh, I'll do a 2-step process, or a 1-Step on any given vehicle with just a general assumption at hand, because such can be nothing more than educated guessing.

This can vary due to polishes and pads used, the degree of damage and correction needed, and the hardness qualities of the paint itself.

Do read up on how our Forum Master, Mike Phillips explains the use of the "Test Spot", to determine which combination of pads, polishes and processes will get the job at hand properly done.

 

[LydiaGP]

Like Mark mentioned, M105 can be slightly dusty. What I've done that seems to help is add a little bit of #7 to help prolong the work time of M105. So for instance, once the pad is primed, I'll put 4 large drops of M105 and 1 of #7. It seems to help the work time. As far as pads, I haven't used the Lake Country pads so I can't speak to them, but I would highly recommend the Meguiar's microfiber pads for times when you need more cut. They step up the cut ability pretty significantly. Their foam pads are good as well but, like I said, I can't compare them to LC.

 

[dlc95]

Champ, take the easy/cheaper approach first. Good quality pads and polishes. Thin is good for the PC. Microfiber discs (like Megs MF Cut discs) are good for compounding when coupled with the right stuff (Like Megs D300). Thin pads and good quality polishes make this machine more efficient. And it's cheaper than buying a whole new machine!! WAY cheaper. So try that first. You can always use those pads /polishes on the new machine if you decide to go that way.

And if saving time is a concern, and you're not a pro (you mentioned two new cars?) I recall that Larry of AMMO NYC did a video comparing the GG6 with a Rupes. The Rupes was just minutes faster over a section of a panel. In other words, don't expect to save a bunch of hours from one of the newer long throw machines when you're only working on your own cars.

This a great advice.

The Megs microfiber system was specifically designed for the traditional random orbital, like the PC. It was designed to approximate defect removal typically handled with a powerful rotary buffer, and does a great job at it's task.

I've done most of my work with Porter Cable tools. In the cold, in the heat for hours on end, and dropped it off my cart, and the thing just won't quit.

More recently I set the XP version aside, and am using a 1st gen tool. It's smaller, and a touch lighter. Rarely am I over speed 5, unless I'm removing sanding marks with a foam pad.

This year I planned on using through Rupes system, but my PC, Megs liquids, and my Buff and Shine pads will be on stand by if I have issues.

 

[DBAILEY]

Try adding some of the Meg Ultimate compound to the M105. You can get it at Walmart for like $9 a bottle. Either mix it in another bottle or put like 3 dots of M105 and 2 of UC on the pad. It will cut down the dusting and provide a longer working time. You also benefit from the paint cleansers in UC.

Having a machine with the 5" pads (GG6) and another machine with 3" or 4" pads (PC) would help speed things up. Cut in whatever is needed with the smaller pad and then do the larger part of the panel with the larger pad machine. Kind of like a painter does. Keeps you from trying to polish smaller sections of panels with a pad that is too big for that surface. Then move onto the next panel.

 

[dlc95]

Try adding some of the Meg Ultimate compound to the M105. You can get it at Walmart for like $9 a bottle. Either mix it in another bottle or put like 3 dots of M105 and 2 of UC on the pad. It will cut down the dusting and provide a longer working time. You also benefit from the paint cleansers in UC.

Having a machine with the 5" pads (GG6) and another machine with 3" or 4" pads (PC) would help speed things up. Cut in whatever is needed with the smaller pad and then do the larger part of the panel with the larger pad machine. Kind of like a painter does. Keeps you from trying to polish smaller sections of panels with a pad that is too big for that surface. Then move onto the next panel.

That extremely dusty nature of M105 is why I switched to M100.

On a rotary, M105 is pretty good though. The work time of M105 seems better suited for the faster work time of the higher speeds of the rotary.