Is Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant supposed to not to be smooth to the touch?

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

This afternoon when I got in my car I rubbed my hand on the hood and found that it felt like there were tons of small bumps like I haven't clayed the car in ten years.


Ed

Need to get to where you don't feel the bumps before applying any wax or sealant.

Like mentioned, try re-claying a section of paint and then use the baggie test to inspect.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Initially, I was going to agree that dust or like contamination fell on it during the night but then you mentioned the condition was everywhere, even on the sides...

Sounds like some type of paint overspray? Most contamination takes place on horizontal surfaces because contaminants land out of the air and settle on these surfaces while drifting past the vertical surfaces to fall and land on the ground.

The exception would be sticky airborne contaminants like overspray paint and tree sap mist carried in the wind.

One thing I've noticed over the years is claying doesn't always remove all the contaminants, the baggie test reveals this but not your hand. The Nanoskin Autoscrub pads seem to completely remove everything off the surface, probably has to do with the machine application.


Feel a section of paint with a thin, plastic sandwich baggie and verify you feel the bumps. Then clay that section and re-inspect. See if it helps remove more contaminants then you previously felt or all the contaminants you previously felt and this will indicate what the problem is.

If you cannot get the paint completely flat and smooth using clay perhaps it's time to get out a magnifying glass and take a close look at the paint?


You want to dial in a process that works to one small area before tackling the entire car.


New car huh?


:dunno:

 

[Vegas Transplant]

The thing that is most confusing to me is that it was smooth when touching by hand, then getting resistance with the mf towel. I also thought about overspray.

 

[BobbyG]

Sounds like some type of paint overspray? Most contamination takes place on horizontal surfaces because contaminants land out of the air and settle on these surfaces while drifting past the vertical surfaces to fall and land on the ground.

The exception would be sticky airborne contaminants like overspray paint and tree sap mist carried in the wind.

Understanding the car is new I sort of ruled this one out.

Routinely factories do touch-ups is a finish defect is discovered and for the most part the results are pretty decent. On the chance that it was overspray I feel it would be localized and not over the entire finish....my view anyway

Attacking one panel to eliminate the problem is the right thing to do. This way you've discovered the corrective action and can apply it to the rest of the finish....rops:

 

[eyost]

Sounds like some type of paint overspray? Most contamination takes place on horizontal surfaces because contaminants land out of the air and settle on these surfaces while drifting past the vertical surfaces to fall and land on the ground.

The exception would be sticky airborne contaminants like overspray paint and tree sap mist carried in the wind.

One thing I've noticed over the years is claying doesn't always remove all the contaminants, the baggie test reveals this but not your hand. The Nanoskin Autoscrub pads seem to completely remove everything off the surface, probably has to do with the machine application.


Feel a section of paint with a thin, plastic sandwich baggie and verify you feel the bumps. Then clay that section and re-inspect. See if it helps remove more contaminants then you previously felt or all the contaminants you previously felt and this will indicate what the problem is.

If you cannot get the paint completely flat and smooth using clay perhaps it's time to get out a magnifying glass and take a close look at the paint?


You want to dial in a process that works to one small area before tackling the entire car.


New car huh?


:dunno:

Thanks Mike. Yeah, it is a new car - nine months old. The odd thing is that right after I applied the sealant it felt smooth to the touch but it took probably about 24 hours for these bumps to appear. Last night I clayed a small section and re-applied the sealant and it felt very smooth. Time will tell how my test went since it took about 24 hours for the problem to appear.

Do you think these bumps are contaminates are something else going on with the paint; defective paint job or bad application of the sealant? How do I know if I have applied to much sealant? Last night I applied a thin layer, barely could see it unless I look at an angle.

Ed

 

[eyost]

Understanding the car is new I sort of ruled this one out.

Routinely factories do touch-ups is a finish defect is discovered and for the most part the results are pretty decent. On the chance that it was overspray I feel it would be localized and not over the entire finish....my view anyway

Attacking one panel to eliminate the problem is the right thing to do. This way you've discovered the corrective action and can apply it to the rest of the finish....rops:

Thanks for the information. The thing that really confuses me is that the bumps didn't appear until about 24 hours after the application. Immediately after applying the sealant the paint was smooth, it was not until almost a day afterwards that the bumps appeared. Maybe the sealant was cured completely?

I sure hope the paint job is not faulty.

 

[eyost]

Need to get to where you don't feel the bumps before applying any wax or sealant.

Like mentioned, try re-claying a section of paint and then use the baggie test to inspect.

Thanks Mike. So a sealant may amplify any 'hidden' bumps despite it feeling smooth to my hand? It's a dramatic difference between pre and post sealant application.

 

[eyost]

Hey Ed,

No, this is not normal at all.

I've used Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 and achieved fantastic results.

Initially, I was going to agree that dust or like contamination fell on it during the night but then you mentioned the condition was everywhere, even on the sides...

If the paint was cleaned properly and the cleansing lotion fully removed then two things come to mind, residual moisture or bad product...however both seem highly unlikely...

Question

Did you thoroughly clean each panel to remove the cleansing lotion prior to applying Wolfgang's Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0? If not this could be at the root cause of the problem...

If there was polishing or cleaning residue on the paint it became sealed in once you applied Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 giving you the current condition..

Hey Bobby,

I wiped the cleansing lotion as I went along. Using the DA polisher I applied the lotion in a small section, set the machine down then wiped it off until I could not see it on the car. Repeated this process until the car was complete. If for some reason I didn't get all of the lotion removed, am I going to have to completely repeat this process, remove the sealant and get it to a base then re-seal?!

Ed

 

[Vegas Transplant]

Need to get to where you don't feel the bumps before applying any wax or sealant.

Like mentioned, try re-claying a section of paint and then use the baggie test to inspect.

Me personally, I feel that you're caught up in the semantics: slick/smooth. Paint issue? NO!

Slick, as opposed to rough. Maybe.
Maybe this is your dilema.

 

[swanicyouth]

Is this car and this work being kept / done all outside? Are you putting the sealant on super thin? It should take no more than 1/2 ounce of sealant to complete a regular size car.

I noticed you mentioned you let the sealant cure 45 mins. Any reason so long? If it was tacky that long you used too much. You should be applying it thin enough that it cures in 5-10 mins.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Thanks Mike. So a sealant may amplify any 'hidden' bumps despite it feeling smooth to my hand?

A plastic baggie will amplify any bumps on the paint...

The Baggie Test - How to inspect for above surface bonded contaminants

It's a dramatic difference between pre and post sealant application.

Claying and machine applying a paint cleaner will make the paint feel smoother.

Now follow me on this...

Any contaminants NOT removed by claying and machine cleaning will now stick-out or "feel-out" like a sore thumb because the paint surrounding them is clean and smooth.

Paint sealants don't "normally" leave bumps on paint. I think we can rule that out till you do some more testing. If you feel bumps on the paint right now, then try re-claying.

If claying doesn't remove these bumps then I doubt they are "bumps" left by the sealant because they would have to be some pretty stout bumps or substances to resist being mechanically removed by detailing clay and the downward pressure you're applying when you rub the clay over the paint.

My guess is these bumps are something else...


Might be time to get a Nanoskin Autoscrub pad...

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEWl3R6TPLo&hd=1]How To use the Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads on a PC7424XP - YouTube[/video]

 

[eyost]

Is this car and this work being kept / done all outside? Are you putting the sealant on super thin? It should take no more than 1/2 ounce of sealant to complete a regular size car.

I noticed you mentioned you let the sealant cure 45 mins. Any reason so long? If it was tacky that long you used too much. You should be applying it thin enough that it cures in 5-10 mins.

The wash of the car is done outside, with everything else done within the garage granted with the door open for temperature.

1/2 ounce! eeh - used more than that, this newbie didn't know. Guess a bottle will last a lifetime!

45 minutes is what was indicated on the website instructions for the Wolfgang product, I try to abide by the instructions.
Ed

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Here's a tip...

Baggie Test Tip from Paul aka 2old2change


Here's a tip from my buddy Paul aka 2old2change that I use all the time. That is, when doing the Baggie Test to inspect for above surface bonded contaminants, purchase and use thin sandwich baggies, not the thicker style common to premium styles like the zip-lock type of sandwich baggies.

The thinner plastic works better to reveal contaminants on the surface better than thicker plastic. A simple tip that really does make a big difference.


Paul even sent me a box of some very inexpensive, Plain-Jane sandwich baggies to use in the studio... thanks Paul!

These are Kroger brand regular sandwich bags

Use the right tool for the job and all that...


Sometimes the little things are the big things...

 

[BobbyG]

This is what I would suggest and on 1 panel, a panel that exhibits the defects..

1. Closely examine the defect with a magnifying glass to gain some insight as to what it might be; dust, dirt, small bubble
2. Wash it with your normal washing solution, rinse, they dry
3. Inspect the panel and see if the bumps are still there and if they are;
4. Clay the panel then wash, rinse, and dry
5. Inspect the panel and see if the bumps are still there and if they are;
6. Try claying a second time and be somewhat more aggressive
7. If they are not and the panel is smooth, use a paint cleaner and prep the surface
8. Wipe the panel with mineral spirits or IPA
9. Dry
10. Apply Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 with your dual action polisher using a blue or red foam pad on speed setting 3.
11. Allow to dry to a haze then buff with a clean microfiber towel..

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

This is what I would suggest and on 1 panel, a panel that exhibits the defects..

Definitely limit your testing to one panel or section of a panel as a way of troubleshooting.

Once you determine the problem and the solution to a small area then duplicate the solution to the rest of the car.


Nice instructional trouble shooting recommendations Bobby!



:dblthumb2:

 

[eyost]

Definitely limit your testing to one panel or section of a panel as a way of troubleshooting.

Once you determine the problem and the solution to a small area then duplicate the solution to the rest of the car.


Nice instructional trouble shooting recommendations Bobby!



:dblthumb2:

Sounds like a plan. I'm heading out early today so hope to get this started today; hurricane is brewing up rain so if I can at least get it washed before it rains I can then concentrate on the other stuff in the garage.

Thanks for all of the input everyone, and sorry I for the high anxiety; new to all of this and was concerned I wrecked my paint! :thankyousign:

 

[The Moose]

Welp. I learned something today. Never thought the baggie would actually amplify any bumps. I have been doing just the plain finger drag test after claying... shucks.


i also had a similar result to the OP once when sealing my truck with EX-P. I applied, waited 45 minutes, wiped off, let sit overnight in the garage, then when i went to wax it later, it had a rough feel to it... turns out my garage was SUPER dusty, and the dust settled INTO the curing sealer... i re-clayed and it was smooth as butter again. And i got to start the process over again after vacuuming and leaf blowing out the entire garage for like an hour.

 

[eyost]

Welp. I learned something today. Never thought the baggie would actually amplify any bumps. I have been doing just the plain finger drag test after claying... shucks.


i also had a similar result to the OP once when sealing my truck with EX-P. I applied, waited 45 minutes, wiped off, let sit overnight in the garage, then when i went to wax it later, it had a rough feel to it... turns out my garage was SUPER dusty, and the dust settled INTO the curing sealer... i re-clayed and it was smooth as butter again. And i got to start the process over again after vacuuming and leaf blowing out the entire garage for like an hour.

Good point, my garage is far from operating room clean, it was swept out but you never know what is flying through the air shame we can't shring wrap it while it is curing.

Stay tuned for what I hope will be a more successul second go.

 

[eyost]

O.K. supporters, here is a status update...

Just washed the car (man was it easy with the sheeting action). Dried it and interestingly when I ran a micro fiber cloth on a location that previously snagged, it ran across the area smooth. Did the baggie test and it was a bit rough but a ton less than what it was last night. Decided to reclay that area and just applied the WDGS in a very fine thin application.

I am wondering if I was to heavy handed with my previous application. About how thin is it supposed to be applied? For the reapplication, I used about two pea size amounts on a yellow foam applicator for the hood of a Honda CRV.

Bummer I have to reapply the sealant, it is real smooth after claying; do I have to reapply?

Thanks everyone,

Ed

 

[cleanmycorolla]

Good point, my garage is far from operating room clean, it was swept out but you never know what is flying through the air shame we can't shring wrap it while it is curing.

Stay tuned for what I hope will be a more successul second go.

Weird, I have applied WGDGPS in an open air car port before, and let it sit out that way overnight to cure(with no dew, dont get much of that here in so cal), and it cured fine and lasted months! I can't imagine a little dust landing while it cured would've caused that issue, but I am sure better people know more than me!:dblthumb2: