Issues with Buff & Shine Low-Pro's LHR21 MarkII

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VT675

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I love buff and shine, really high quality durable pads that finish well, I have almost every single pad they sell for the Flex and I've not encountered a single issue.

Now, I have a couple of the new Low Pro's for the Rupes and I'm not impressed at all, they seem to glaze fast, skip all over the place and don't seem to spread product well. I've tried them from speed 2-5 and the end result is lack luster. I mainly use the CarPro Gloss pads and Microfiber Pads for the Rupes without issue so I don't know if this is user error or a meh product. I've e-mailed the company but they've yet to respond so I'll try here.

Thanks.

I've looked long and hard but not many people run these pads so there really isn't any information floating about.
 
Hmm. I bought 12 and haven't encountered any issue? Did you prime the pad?
 
They are stiff pads, I don't like using them on long throw DA's. Use them on the Flex 3401, they contour much better.
 
I recently used the Green Low-Pro to buff out a car using the Rupes 15 Mk II with GG Boss Fast Correcting Cream with good results.

This was the compounding step and it left the paint almost ready for LSP, even though we followed up with a polishing step.

Another professional detailer friend of mine has been using this same combo for a while and he really likes the pad. He's the one that recommended them to me.

We were using the 5.5" pads, not sure if that makes a difference.

Maybe it's the polish you're using or the climate conditions.

We were in a garage with no A/C but we had fans going, the temperature inside the garage was around 78 degrees and humidity about 70%.
 
No issues with any of the Low-Pro's on my Rupes, most like the paint you working on prefers a different approach.
 
Thanks for the replies, the pads are super stiff, how are you gents priming the pads?
 
Issues with Buff & Shine Low-Pro's LHR21 MarkII

Try them on the 3401, you'll like them better.
 
VT675 said:
Thanks for the replies, the pads are super stiff, how are you gents priming the pads?
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I didn't prime the pads when I used them, just the normal 3-4 drops of product.

I've only used the green pad, I haven't tried the other ones yet.
 
I love the yellow B/S pads but they feel really, really stiff at first. What I find makes a HUGE difference in how soft they become (and does not affect the cut one bit!) is to run them under the water with warm water first. I get it soaking wet and then wring it out followed by spinning it for about 30 seconds at 3000 rpm on my rotary. What does that accomplish? It makes the pad soft and makes it feel like a finishing pad but will still do the cutting work you need it to. I would suggest this approach if you find these new pads to be hard and inflexible too. I haven't tried them yet but plan to.
 
richy said:
I love the yellow B/S pads but they feel really, really stiff at first. What I find makes a HUGE difference in how soft they become (and does not affect the cut one bit!) is to run them under the water with warm water first. I get it soaking wet and then wring it out followed by spinning it for about 30 seconds at 3000 rpm on my rotary. What does that accomplish? It makes the pad soft and makes it feel like a finishing pad but will still do the cutting work you need it to. I would suggest this approach if you find these new pads to be hard and inflexible too. I haven't tried them yet but plan to.
Click to expand...

Hey Richy, these low pros use a different foam than what you're used to with the older style Buff and Shines. The ones I used on my Flex are superb in every way possible. These ones on the other hand have a memory effect to them, if I push on the foam is takes a while for the foam to rebound, they also have a rubber liner in between the foam and the velcro.

They're also the 6.5inch version too if it matters, everytime I attempt to use them, while the results are decent I keep reaching for the Flex. I wonder how well they work with the Flex, I don't think they were designed for it?
 
VT675, You can email my office anytime at [email protected] The pads were designed to take the beating of the long throw type machines. They should be primed before use.
 
Just to highlight a theme I see in the posts here - people keep commenting that the pads are stiff. I'm sure B&S has honed in on the fact that our pads are stiff and this is by design. Softer foam structures will neuter some of the movement, even in lower profile designs. Additionally a foam that distorts excessively during the polishing operation builds up lots of heat (the individual foam cells rub against eachother) and can cause all manner of problems.

A large orbit machine, especially in the cutting phases, works best with a more rigid foam and while it does take some compensation/adjustment to technique its worth the performance gains IMHO
 
This was the design on the pads for doing fster correction. Thanks Dylan
 
I've used the low pros with my G21 and HD speed, no issues with glazing over
I only do about 3 to 4 peasized drops
I don't prime my pads btw
 
Hmmmm, ok, be interested to know what you discover with them.

Sent from my E6853 using Tapatalk
 
They're stiff to the point that the outer rim of the pad doesn't seem to be touching the surface of the paint(almost like they don't want to contour the panel) and if I dare go near a slight curve the Rupes freaks out. Sort of like when you're first introduced to the Flex VRG. I bought 3x Green, Orange, Maroon and Red -- so far very disappointed. I've paint corrected close to 150 cars so this isn't my first rodeo. Process is as follows, completely flat panel, prime the pad with 3-4 small dots, gently press the polisher on the panel, start the polisher, as the polisher is starting spread the product for your section, stabilize the polisher and start making section passes. The entire process is not smooth and effortless at all.
 
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