Just tried out my FLEX L3403.. What am I doing wrong?

[STi05']

So I have used a PC for years (only on my own/parents/friends cars) And decided to pick up a rotary. Looked around and decided on the L3403. Its quality is amazing and I love it, however I must be doing something wrong.. The whole time I was using it I felt like it was more using me. Very difficult to control on anything but a flat surface like the roof, hood, trunk. It just wanted to throw me around! (I felt like this guy :buffing What could I be doing wrong?
Maybe I should look into a 3401..

 

[W.O.T Srvices]

What speed are you running it at?

 

[memnuts]

I think i know what is going on. Since your used to a PC and holding it flat against a panel, with a rotary you can't hold it flat against the panel instead you want to have pressure on one side ie the left or the right depending on the direction you are going. The rotary has a learning process but once it clicks you won't really want to go back. I have a UDM, 3401, 9227 and a 3403. It comes down to which rotary is closest to me.

 

[oldmodman]

As a suggestion.
While learning how to control the rotary it makes it easier to start with smaller pads. I found it much easier to use 6.5 inch pads, and less aggressive ones to start out with. There will be less of a "being dragged around" feeling than with a large, aggressive pad. Also start out slower and try to practice on an old used hood or something. If you start out with high speed, a large and aggressive pad, or a wool pad you are likely to damage your paint. Or even worse, sour yourself on the rotary forever and damage the paint too.

 

[Pockets@PoorboysWorld]

I think i know what is going on. Since your used to a PC and holding it flat against a panel, with a rotary you can't hold it flat against the panel instead you want to have pressure on one side ie the left or the right depending on the direction you are going. The rotary has a learning process but once it clicks you won't really want to go back. I have a UDM, 3401, 9227 and a 3403. It comes down to which rotary is closest to me.

Right on :dblthumb2: but I wouldn't say put "pressure" on one side or the other just tilt one side up and let the machine do the work you really could use a rotary with one hand once you get the hang of it down it really does all the work for you. It pretty much just glides on the finish. :buffing:

 

[PAR Detailing]

I agree that you should use smaller pads, its much nicer. I use the w66 bp by megs. Asphault reccomended it to me and I love it. I use my 6.5 pads with it and fine it very easy to use. I love my rotary

 

[STi05']

Oh wow.. I wish I had known all of that before. I thought you had to keep it flat.. :doh:
So I would assume that you lift the side in the direction you are going?

 

[Rsurfer]

Oh wow.. I wish I had known all of that before. I thought you had to keep it flat.. :doh:
So I would assume that you lift the side in the direction you are going?

Just the opposite.

 

[Erik Mejia]

First I would recommend getting yourself a practice hood so you don't destroy your paint job while you tame the rotary beast. Secondly, don't try and force the machine to go in a certain direction, instead gently guide it. Using a polishing pad, and a polish with a long working time (try OPT Polish.) Try out the machine a 1100rpm (slowest) and without putting any pressure on the pad, set it on the panel you are working on and get a feel for where the machine wants to go. Try moving it side to side, and canting it slightly in different directions to get an understanding of its natural movements. Every panel is different, sometimes you have no choice but to tilt the buffer slightly to follow the curvature of certain panels, however you must remember to keep the pad as flat as possible at all times. Buffer hop is a pain, but it can be overcome with practice, and varying the buffers position.
​

The biggest mistake you can make is to use the pad at such an angle where you're almost grinding away with the edge of a pad. Big mistake, this could cause some serious damage since great amounts of heat will be generated.

While you are polishing, touch the panel section you are polishing frequently to make sure the paint doesn't get too hot. If you touch it and it makes you want to recoil your palm back to safety, then the panel is too hot (stop.) I've seen too many people buff at really high speeds with their polishers which really doesn't do all that much good.

Instead, slow the RPM speed as well as your arm speed. This practice will allow the polish adequate time to properly polish the area you are working, and is less likely to cause other problems down the road (like holograms*.)

In short, the best thing you can do is practice. Don't get too frustrated, go in there with an open mind, mistakes will be made, but learn from them. I suggest you go out every other day to the garage and practice for an hour or so. Sooner or later you'll start to get the hang of it. It takes time, practice and patience.

* Most pad/ polish choices will induce some holograms (that's why you'll have a DA with you at all times.) The key is to induce the faintest ones possible. Practice enough and sooner or later you'll be able to finish down hologram free with you rotary on certain paint types (not possible on all paint, it all depends.):xyxthumbs:

 

[STi05']

Alright. Thanks so much for all the advice guys!

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Alright. Thanks so much for all the advice guys!

What size pad are/were you using?


The lightweight body will get hot if you try to buff for extended times with large pads, like everyone else has stated stick with smaller pads, 5.5" and 6.5"are really easy to learn with when first starting out.

 

[ryandamartini]

This is one reason why I love my FLEX VVB. The monster seems to just about sit pretty on its own and I pretty much just guide it to where I need. Heavier, sure. However, I've never had any of the torque issues from it.

Anyways, do what they all have said to do hehe. Smaller pads, tilt it a smidge and just try to guide it. The machine is supposed to do the work for you, not the other way around

 

[STi05']

What size pad are/were you using?


The lightweight body will get hot if you try to buff for extended times with large pads, like everyone else has stated stick with smaller pads, 5.5" and 6.5"are really easy to learn with when first starting out.

I first tried my 7.5 pads, then I tried my 6.5 pads. Those were much easier than the larger ones but I was still having a tough time.

 

[STi05']

I now have some 6" kompressor pads and some OPT compound/polishes in my cart. Any thoughts on those?

 

[Rsurfer]

I now have some 6" kompressor pads and some OPT compound/polishes in my cart. Any thoughts on those?

I like the pads, but would rather have Meg's 105/205 combo or Menzerna polishes.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I now have some 6" kompressor pads and some OPT compound/polishes in my cart. Any thoughts on those?

The 6" Kompressor Pads are very easy to use on a rotary buffer, the slotted tabs make the pad very flexible to conform to any curved surfaces.

They also clean well by hand in a sink or bucket of water or using a pad washer.


What are you working on primarily? Customer cars? Your cars? Special projects?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

First I would recommend getting yourself a practice hood so you don't destroy your paint job while you tame the rotary beast.

Great advice, or a junker car that nobody cares about. Don't learn to use a rotary buffer on a black Viper.

Secondly, don't try and force the machine to go in a certain direction, instead gently guide it. Using a polishing pad, and a polish with a long working time (try OPT Polish.)

Try out the machine a 1100rpm (slowest) and without putting any pressure on the pad, set it on the panel you are working on and get a feel for where the machine wants to go.

Try moving it side to side, and canting it slightly in different directions to get an understanding of its natural movements.

Every panel is different, sometimes you have no choice but to tilt the buffer slightly to follow the curvature of certain panels, however you must remember to keep the pad as flat as possible at all times. Buffer hop is a pain, but it can be overcome with practice, and varying the buffers position.

More great advice...

The biggest mistake you can make is to use the pad at such an angle where you're almost grinding away with the edge of a pad. Big mistake, this could cause some serious damage since great amounts of heat will be generated.

While you are polishing, touch the panel section you are polishing frequently to make sure the paint doesn't get too hot. If you touch it and it makes you want to recoil your palm back to safety, then the panel is too hot (stop.) I've seen too many people buff at really high speeds with their polishers which really doesn't do all that much good.

More good advice, here's an article on the above topic,

Fight or Flight Method for Gaging Surface Temperature

Instead, slow the RPM speed as well as your arm speed. This practice will allow the polish adequate time to properly polish the area you are working, and is less likely to cause other problems down the road (like holograms*.)

More great advice...

In short, the best thing you can do is practice. Don't get too frustrated, go in there with an open mind, mistakes will be made, but learn from them. I suggest you go out every other day to the garage and practice for an hour or so. Sooner or later you'll start to get the hang of it. It takes time, practice and patience.

Mastering the rotary buffer is just a matter of putting time behind the tool...

* Most pad/ polish choices will induce some holograms (that's why you'll have a DA with you at all times.)

I would agree with this statement, but you need to know how to inspect for the holograms to know if they exist or not.

This is why for most people, if you want to ensure that the finish is swirl free, then simple include a follow-up polishing step using a DA Polisher. The reason this works is because you change the action of the tool, that is you go from a direct rotating action of a rotary buffer to two actions, rotating and oscillating and it's the dual action effect that will work-out any swirls while not leaving any swirls.

The key is to induce the faintest ones possible. Practice enough and sooner or later you'll be able to finish down hologram free with you rotary on certain paint types (not possible on all paint, it all depends.)

:xyxthumbs:

Very accurate information Eric...

:bowdown:

 

[STi05']

The 6" Kompressor Pads are very easy to use on a rotary buffer, the slotted tabs make the pad very flexible to conform to any curved surfaces.

They also clean well by hand in a sink or bucket of water or using a pad washer.


What are you working on primarily? Customer cars? Your cars? Special projects?

Its just for my cars, my friends, and family. What product is going to give me the longest time to work with?