KB Method on the Flex?

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anson89

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Hey guys!

My new Flex arrives this Friday wooo!!! :dblthumb2: Can't wait to use it, I'm upgrading from a PC7424XP. Detailing is a weekend job for me I hope this monster can help me!

Anyways, I'm so used to using the KB method on the PC.

1. Prime pad
2. Apply 3 to 4 dots of pea sized polish
3. Spread the polish on 13x13 area
4. Start polishing at speed 6

Would the same method apply to the Flex as well and polishing at the highest speed on Flex? I understand the Flex has more power than the PC, so is there a risk on burning the paint at the highest speed?
 
anson89 said:
Anyways, I'm so used to using the KB method on the PC.

1. Prime pad
2. Apply 3 to 4 dots of pea sized polish
3. Spread the polish on 13x13 area
4. Start polishing at speed 6

Would the same method apply to the Flex as well and polishing at the highest speed on Flex?
Click to expand...

Yes. 13" by 13" is pretty small but it depends upon the condition of the paint, what you're trying to accomplish and temperature. Sounds like you have a system that already works for you so go with it.

anson89 said:
I understand the Flex has more power than the PC, so is there a risk on burning the paint at the highest speed?
Click to expand...

No normal risk of burning the paint. Just keep the polisher moving.

About the only time you have a risk of burning through the clear with a DA Polisher, Flex 3401 or a Cyclo is when you would have the same risk of burning through the paint by hand. That is if the paint is whisper thin to start with then there's always a risk no matter how you're doing your work.


The 6.0 speed setting is pretty fast on the 3401 for most correction work, test out the 5.0 speed setting first and see if it's removing the defects fast enough and effectively enough for you, if not you can always bump it up.


:)
 
I remember seeing several videos that encouraged laying a bead of product on the car (if you're on a flat surface) vs. putting 3 or 4 pea size dots on your pad. Not sure if it affects much, but it's what I do.
 
KBM is more about pad priming than anything. I use the pad priming techniques with my rotary and 7424 with fantastic results.

I prime the pad, then lay the pad on the paint, turn the polisher on for just a quick second, pick it up (while it's off, duh) and check out the pad. If everything checks out (product is perfecty distributed on pad) I then put 2 dime size drops on my work area which varies.

I find that on the 7424 I can spread the Meg's twins out further, but with the rotary it requires a small work area, but better results faster.

I lay a line down with the rotary on a wool pad.

All foam pads get the dots and proper pad priming.
 
VR8 said:
I remember seeing several videos that encouraged laying a bead of product on the car (if you're on a flat surface) vs. putting 3 or 4 pea size dots on your pad. Not sure if it affects much, but it's what I do.
Click to expand...
Laying a bead on the paint is for rotary use. OP is using the KBM so the pad needs to be primed first.
 
VR8 said:
I remember seeing several videos that encouraged laying a bead of product on the car (if you're on a flat surface) vs. putting 3 or 4 pea size dots on your pad. Not sure if it affects much, but it's what I do.
Click to expand...

If you watch the first YouTube video in this thread it shows how to pick up a bead or strip of product using the Flex 3401.

How to do a Test Spot using the Flex 3401


This technique actually works just fine with the 3401.

With a rotary the technique is called 10 at 10 which means picking you bead of product up at the 10 'O'Clock position on the pad as you look down on it from above and tilt your pad at 10 degrees as you run the pad over the bead. By doing this, because of the direction the pad is rotating the pad pulls the product into and under it instead of splattering it all over the place.

For the Rotary buffer, the 10 at 10 technique is actually relative once you figure out how it works and you can pick up a bead at any position on the pad as long as you're pulling the product into the pad in relation to how the pad is rotating and the direction you're moving the buffer.

Same thing applies to the Flex 3401, that is in the video I show picking the bead up at 4 'O'Clock at 10 degrees and moving the polisher from left to right, but after you figure out how this works it's kind of relative as long as you're pulling the product into the pad in relation to how the pad is rotating and the direction you're moving the buffer.


:)
 
zinc02gt said:
KBM is more about pad priming than anything. I use the pad priming techniques with my rotary and 7424 with fantastic results.

I prime the pad, then lay the pad on the paint, turn the polisher on for just a quick second, pick it up (while it's off, duh) and check out the pad. If everything checks out (product is perfecty distributed on pad) I then put 2 dime size drops on my work area which varies.

I find that on the 7424 I can spread the Meg's twins out further, but with the rotary it requires a small work area, but better results faster.

I lay a line down with the rotary on a wool pad.

All foam pads get the dots and proper pad priming.
Click to expand...
How often do you add more polish to the pad after your initial 4 dots on the pad? How often do you re-prime the pad?
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
How often do you add more polish to the pad after your initial 4 dots on the pad? How often do you re-prime the pad?
Click to expand...

It all subjective. I only use 2 dots per area after priming the pad and keep it at 2 dots per section untill the pad is oversaturated. The over saturation normally occurs (orange or yellow pad) after 1.5 panels. I can get the hood and 1 fender done on my car with M105 and a yellow before getting another pad.

I haven't used the rotary on my car yet.
 
What are you priming the pad with? XMT pad conditioner, water, QD, or product?
 
I am curious as well. With the KBM, what does he mean by "priming the pad"? I have looked and cannot find his writeup. Thanks and sorry for sort of taking the thread off topic.
 
In that thread it should also say that the pad priming with the product should be left to non-diminishing abrasive polishes.
 
kovalchuk71 said:
Why was his writeup never published?
Click to expand...

Everyone is waiting for the full Kevin Brown Method write up, last time I checked it was at least 30 pages (no idea exactly) of diagrams and theory behind the process.
 
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