Looking for Advice on Serious Waterspots

VictoryRed08 said:
It's not sounding like I've got a lot of options here. I don't seem to be any closer to finding an answer to this problem...

I'll see if I can snap some pix.
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Do you have any desire to fix this yourself? If so order a DA, Meguiars 105 and a few orange pads

The guy from Las Vegas has a blue bmw with suicide doors as his avatar but his name is drawing blanks
 
VictoryRed08 said:
I don't seem to be any closer to finding an answer to this problem...
Click to expand...

I really do hope and pray that, somehow, this will come to fruition.

LasVegas-Covina.jpg



:)

Bob
 
Flash Gordon said:
Do you have any desire to fix this yourself? If so order a DA, Meguiars 105 and a few orange pads

The guy from Las Vegas has a blue bmw with suicide doors as his avatar but his name is drawing blanks
Click to expand...

As far as doing it myself... I just have no idea what I'm doing. Everyone has said be super careful if you take it to a shop because chances are they won't know what they're doing and won't do it right. Now maybe my logic is off, but if the pros working at a shop won't do it right, that doesn't really lead me to think I could do it right, having never tried this kind of thing.

I sent Joe@SuperiorShine a PM but I haven't gotten a response yet. I could potentially see about driving to LA if really necessary, but I'm just finding it hard to believe there's no one here in town that can do this. There's a lot of high-end exotics rolling around this city, and as bad as the water is here, I'm sure this happens a lot.

I tried taking some pix but I was having a hard time getting the spots to show up in the images. Believe me, when viewed in direct sunlight they are very noticeable. I took these with my snapshot camera. The battery on my high-end camera is charging up. When it's done I'll try taking some more pix with that. In the meantime..

49945
IMG_16541.JPG


IMG_16492.JPG


Thanks again for all the advice though. It is very appreciated.
49945
 
VictoryRed08 said:
Now maybe my logic is off, but if the pros working at a shop won't do it right, that doesn't really lead me to think I could do it right, having never tried this kind of thing.

It's more of a matter of finding the right pro...there was a thread here recently of a Texan that went to 3 different shops on the Virginia coast...all but the last took him for a ride.


...but I'm just finding it hard to believe there's no one here in town that can do this. There's a lot of high-end exotics rolling around this city, and as bad as the water is here, I'm sure this happens a lot.

First of all...take a close look at those high end swirled messes...ifyou have a detailers eye :xyxthumbs:
I apologise for my reply implying that no one can be trusted. I assumed that you had build-up, as opposed to etching, which was more prevalent, IME, in Vegas.
Your problem is very basic...simple. Sorry to cause an alarm.
However, I stand by my statement that there are more out there to take advantage, do shoddy work, or pass the buck...than there are those that will treat your vehicle as their own.

I tried taking some pix but I was having a hard time getting the spots to show up in the images. Believe me, when viewed in direct sunlight they are very noticeable. I took these with my snapshot camera. The battery on my high-end camera is charging up. When it's done I'll try taking some more pix with that. In the meantime..

49945
IMG_16541.JPG


IMG_16492.JPG


Thanks again for all the advice though. It is very appreciated.
49945
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You're welcome and good luck :dblthumb2:
 
I tried Google and other boards looking for a detailer in Las Vegas and have had very little luck. If your hire someone local ask them if they can deliever without burning your clear and leave the finish hologram free without using a glaze. If they look at you stupid, run! If there's a pause on the phoneline, hangup!

Are you able to do a little manual labor? This really isn't rocket science we're trying to accomplish. With a dual action polisher it's next to impossible to make a mistake

More pics would be great :Picture:




VictoryRed08 said:
As far as doing it myself... I just have no idea what I'm doing. Everyone has said be super careful if you take it to a shop because chances are they won't know what they're doing and won't do it right. Now maybe my logic is off, but if the pros working at a shop won't do it right, that doesn't really lead me to think I could do it right, having never tried this kind of thing.

I sent Joe@SuperiorShine a PM but I haven't gotten a response yet. I could potentially see about driving to LA if really necessary, but I'm just finding it hard to believe there's no one here in town that can do this. There's a lot of high-end exotics rolling around this city, and as bad as the water is here, I'm sure this happens a lot.

I tried taking some pix but I was having a hard time getting the spots to show up in the images. Believe me, when viewed in direct sunlight they are very noticeable. I took these with my snapshot camera. The battery on my high-end camera is charging up. When it's done I'll try taking some more pix with that. In the meantime..

49945
IMG_16541.JPG


IMG_16492.JPG


Thanks again for all the advice though. It is very appreciated.
49945
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Glad to see that you put em in your hip pocket Flash...good looking out hand :dblthumb2:
 
Flash Gordon said:
I tried Google and other boards looking for a detailer in Las Vegas and have had very little luck. If your hire someone local ask them if they can deliever without burning your clear and leave the finish hologram free without using a glaze. If they look at you stupid, run! If there's a pause on the phoneline, hangup!

Are you able to do a little manual labor? This really isn't rocket science we're trying to accomplish. With a dual action polisher it's next to impossible to make a mistake

More pics would be great :Picture:
Click to expand...
Thanks for looking. I appreciate it. I haven't had much luck myself in my own searches. Though I've talked to a few shops on the phone that have assured me they can do it right. I'm not opposed to trying it myself if I had someone who was physically here that could show me how to do it. There's kind of a disconnect here... On the one hand, people are telling me I should do it myself because it's really not that hard. On the other, people are saying, don't go to a shop because unless they really know what they're doing, they'll screw it up. I'm just not following. That's not making sense to me...

Here's another picture I took with my good camera. I tried to upload a really high-res version of it, but the website wouldn't take it. But at least in this picture you can get a better look at the damage that is on most of the vehicle's upper surfaces, except the roof, oddly enough. But looking at the high-res picture at full size, I can see just how much the car needs a full paint restoration now lol.

DSC00874_5_.JPG


So to everyone that's still following, I'm still at a loss. As I said before, I don't feel like I'm any closer to finding a solution. What action do you recommend I take at this point? I'm not taking power tools to my car without someone showing me how to do it. What is my best option at this point?
 
There's kind of a disconnect here... On the one hand, people are telling me I should do it myself because it's really not that hard. On the other, people are saying, don't go to a shop because unless they really know what they're doing, they'll screw it up. I'm just not following. That's not making sense to me...
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I was a noobie once and had never thought I'd be able to buff my own vehicles using power tool for the same reasons you are saying. The difference between a "pro" and doing it yourself is that a "pro" will use a rotary machine, wool pad, and rocks in a bottle and you will be using a dual action machine, and a foam (or micro fiber) pad. It may take you 20 hours or more but it is fairly safe.

Good luck.
 
VictoryRed08 said:
There's kind of a disconnect here... On the one hand, people are telling me I should do it myself because it's really not that hard.

On the other, people are saying, don't go to a shop because unless they really know what they're doing, they'll screw it up.


I'm just not following. That's not making sense to me...
Click to expand...


It's hard for all of us to understand too but here's the deal, doing it right is just as easy as doing it wrong.

In the detailing world we use the term "Hack Detailer" to mean someone that does it wrong. There's know way to know if a detailers knows what he'd doing if you're just walking into a shop and asking them because in their mind they think they're doing things right.

Most detailers are self taught and that can be good or that can be bad, it depends upon what they use to "touch" your car's paint. There's nothing wrong with abrasive products, wool pads and rotary buffers but you don't want some Hack Detailer finishing out with these things and that's where taking someone's word that they know what they're doing becomes risky.

As I posted previously, finding a detailer with an posting history on a forum like this showing they can walk the talk is a safe bet.

Detailers that hang out on forums like this one know more than detailers that don't. It's just common sense because it's in the forum world that all the newest products, pads, techniques are discussed.

I coined at term years ago called, "Horror Story" and it's because so often someone will come onto a forum like this with a a Horror Story and that story is the person sharing their experience taking their car to a company that is supposed to know what they are doing, this would include,

  • Body Shops
  • Detail Shops
  • Dealerships

But the facts don't show this. What the facts and history shows is the people that work in these industries use archaic products, pads and tools to get the job done and the results are you get a swirled-out car when they're done.


I have a couple of articles on this topic and I'll post them below and if you like I can even start digging up threads on this forum and my old stomping grounds, MOL that share "Horror Story's".


The story of 3 H's - Horrendous, Horror Story and Hack Detailers...

DISO = The Dealership Installed Swirl Option


:)
 
Here's something you can do that is real simple and real safe, and that's get a bottle of Meguiar's Ultimates Compound and a clean soft microfiber applicator pad or even a foam applicator pad and take some of this product and rub it with firm pressure to a section of paint about one foot squared and then wipe off the residue and inspect.


If the water spots are gone, or mostly gone this will mean two things,

1. They are not that deep
2. If one hand applied application of UC removes most of them then two applications should take care of all of them or at least leave a finish that's acceptable.


This test will cost you less than $20.00 by the time you get the product and a couple of quality applicator pads...


Meguiar's Ultimate Compound

UltimateCompound.jpg




The more aggressive but still very safe version of this is M105 and that's what you can also use or find a Pro Detailer to use it to buff your car car. IF they start with rotary buffer that's okay as long they finish out with some type of DA Polisher.


Hang tight, I know we have some pro detailers in the Vegas area and I just bumped your thread here...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/off-topic/55602-wanted-pro-detailer-las-vegas.html


:xyxthumbs:
 
VictoryRed08 said:
There's kind of a disconnect here... On the one hand, people are telling me I should do it myself because it's really not that hard.

On the other, people are saying, don't go to a shop because unless they really know what they're doing, they'll screw it up.
Click to expand...


Here's an example of the kind of work the "industry" puts out...


Dealership Corvette with Holograms and Swirls




:dunno:
 
One thing I can tell you for sure is that the offending mineral deposits that have your car looking so bad are still on the paint in that last photo you've posted. It really looks to me that this is a topical mess that may or may not have etched too deeply into your Corvette's paint.

The mineral deposits in the last photo can be seen around the edge of the water spots as a white crusty deposit that is actually laying on top of the paint at the time the photo was taken. I am not saying that these deposits haven't yet etched their way into your Corvette's paint. I am saying that at the time the photo was taken, "the cart is in front of the horse so to speak".

Here in Central Pennsylvania, we have an insane amount of "Ironstone" and "Limestone" in the water supply, so I see and deal with a lot of mineral deposits. Granted, the mineral deposits of your area will no doubt be different that ours around here but the basic principles of the remedy would be similar. I'll outline a few things that I have learned in dealing with mineral deposit removal that you can try at home "by hand" before shelling out the big bucks to a detailer that may or may not have a "least aggressive school of thought" when dealing with a problem like yours.

The mineral deposits can be very resistant to abrasive polishes because a lot of the minerals found here on earth are physically harder than (or just as hard as) the finely milled aluminum oxide (SMAT) abrasives found in today's best cutting and polishing compounds.

The mild dilution of Acetic Acid contained in white distilled vinegar works wonders at softening up and breaking down the mineral's composition, but it takes time. Straight "Glacial Acetic Acid" is stored in plastic bulk drums at many manufacturing facilities around the globe. They store it in plastic bulk drums because Acetic Acid really doesn't attack plastic. This Glacial Acetic Acid will burn the skin right off of your body but it does nothing to the plastic.

White distilled vinegar is a very light dilution (less than 3%) Glacial Acetic Acid. It won't burn your skin but if you put it in a cut on your hand, It burns like the Baajesus!!! It will be quite safe on the paint on your Corvette, because what is paint really? Anyone who really knows paint will tell you that it is basically a sprayed on and cured layer of plastic. The vinegar will however work at softening up or completely breaking down the mineral deposits on your Corvette's paint.

First step would be to go out either in the morning or in the evening when the sun is at it's lowest point and really soak the car with a garden hose to begin the mineral softening process. Spray the car down for a good 5 minutes, just going over and over the car with water to allow the water to really wet the mineral deposits.

Next, using a quality car wash concentrate such as Duragloss #901 or Meguiar's Ultimate wash, wash the car thoroughly being sure not to press too hard against the paint with your wash mitt, the mitt will pick up traces of the mineral deposits and can scratch the paint. The paint is going to get scratched regardless during the mineral deposit removal process but why be careless about things.

After the wash, either towel dry the car or use a leaf blower to remove the excess water. Blower obviously would be the best method here but not totally necessary.

Next, get a clean bucket or large bowl and pour a few inches of white distilled vinegar into it. Take a cotton tea towel and soak it in the vinegar, assuring that the towel is completely wet with the vinegar. Remove the towel and lightly squeeze off the excess vinegar (you want it really wet but not draining off onto the floor of the garage) and lay the vinegar soaked towel over the worst effected area of the horizontal panel of the car and allow the towel and vinegar to dwell over the mineral deposits for about 5 to 10 minutes.

Immediately after removing the towel from the paint, rewash that area with your wash mitt and rinse the car wash soap off the area and blot the area dry.

Next, only in the area that has been soaked with the vinegar, apply some Meguiars Ultimate Compound (Poorboy's World Pro Polish would be better) to a microfiber wax applicator pad and rub the area by hand. Rub with a medium pressure and be vigorous about it. If need be, repeat the process a few times keeping your applicator wet with product.

Keeping the applicator pad wet with product will work to keep the work area hyper lubricated and will minimize the amount of paint scratching this process is causing. As I stated earlier, you'll get scratching regardless, but it can be minimized by "working wet".

Give this a try on one tea towel sized section of the car that has the worst mineral deposits. If it works well in that area of the car, then repeat this process over the entire effected areas on the rest of the car.

You may be surprised at how minimal the etching actually is after performing a total mineral deposit removal.

This is the first step in doing things right in a situation like yours and can be quite time consuming. This is why those who have experience at doing this right, (using the least aggressive school of thought) will charge so much to do it.

Anyone can slather on a big bead of "Rocks in a bottle" and grind away at your car's paint with a rotary polisher and the most aggressive wool pad and call themselves a professional.

To be quite honest, doing it the right way certainly couldn't be profitable even at $1000 so even if the "Pros" knew how to safely tackle this problem, they wouldn't.

Hope this helps you out, TD
 
Flash Gordon said:
Man, those spots look nasty. You need to try to get something done about this ASAP

Thanks to an online shy friend I found the member I was looking for :)


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/members/smack.html


Contact Smack and see what his schedule is looking like :props:
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Thanks so much for finding someone local that can help. He replied on the "wanted" thread I posted in another section of the forum.

Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
It's hard for all of us to understand too but here's the deal, doing it right is just as easy as doing it wrong.

In the detailing world we use the term "Hack Detailer" to mean someone that does it wrong. There's know way to know if a detailers knows what he'd doing if you're just walking into a shop and asking them because in their mind they think they're doing things right.

Most detailers are self taught and that can be good or that can be bad, it depends upon what they use to "touch" your car's paint. There's nothing wrong with abrasive products, wool pads and rotary buffers but you don't want some Hack Detailer finishing out with these things and that's where taking someone's word that they know what they're doing becomes risky.

:)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the explanation. That makes a lot of sense when you put it like that. And I'm really seeing how being part of a forum like this gets the knowledge out there. I took a look at some of your other articles. Very informative. You've got some great knowledge.

tuscarora dave said:
One thing I can tell you for sure is that the offending mineral deposits that have your car looking so bad are still on the paint in that last photo you've posted. It really looks to me that this is a topical mess that may or may not have etched too deeply into your Corvette's paint.

The mineral deposits in the last photo can be seen around the edge of the water spots as a white crusty deposit that is actually laying on top of the paint at the time the photo was taken. I am not saying that these deposits haven't yet etched their way into your Corvette's paint. I am saying that at the time the photo was taken, "the cart is in front of the horse so to speak".

Anyone can slather on a big bead of "Rocks in a bottle" and grind away at your car's paint with a rotary polisher and the most aggressive wool pad and call themselves a professional.

To be quite honest, doing it the right way certainly couldn't be profitable even at $1000 so even if the "Pros" knew how to safely tackle this problem, they wouldn't.

Hope this helps you out, TD
Click to expand...

Thanks for the detailed explanation. Very informative. Those pictures were taken yesterday so the damage is like you see it. I haven't really driven it much since this happened because I've been trying to prevent the desert sun from baking the spots into the paint any more than they already are. I appreciate the advice.

Smack has responded to my other thread so I'm going to contact him and see if he can take a look at the damage.

I really appreciate all the responses and advice. You guys obviously know what you're talking about. Hopefully I'm on the way now to getting this fixed. Great goup of people on this forum. Thanks again :xyxthumbs:
 
VictoryRed08 said:
I can't tell you how much I appreciate all the help. You guys have an awesome community on this forum. The warm welcome and all the advice have just been phenomenal. Thanks again!
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VictoryRed08 said:
I really appreciate all the responses and advice. You guys obviously know what you're talking about. Hopefully I'm on the way now to getting this fixed. Great goup of people on this forum. Thanks again :xyxthumbs:
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No bout a doubt it.
 
VictoryRed08 said:
Thanks for the explanation. That makes a lot of sense when you put it like that.

And I'm really seeing how being part of a forum like this gets the knowledge out there.
Click to expand...


Good forums are both powerful and helpful and really good forums are powerful, helpful and friendly. You have to be careful because some forums for any topic there will always be the kind of people that talked down to you in a demeaning manner or post one-liner answers and expect you to figure the rest out on your own...


One thing for sure, it's very rewarding to see someone with a detailing problem join this forum and then watch the progress to their success...



:xyxthumbs:
 
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