LSP stripping - soaps/foam cannon

Photecs

Photecs

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So after reading plenty of threads and forums, it's clear that CG CWn'G is the winner when it comes to taking off any remaining LSP before adding a fresh coat.

I know some guys say use Dawn, but others TOTALLY disagree... so we'll stick with soaps that are meant for cars... makes sense.

I know doing a polish will also do this, which is more obvious - but if your paint is in good shape... here's my question:

If i'm using CG CWn'G, or similar product (comment of this if you like), the dilution ratio's are there for a 2 bucket method... but wouldn't it be a good idea to hit it with a foam cannon first... let it dwell, then maybe hit it with a mitt/2 bucket after?

IF SO - what's the ratio for a 32 oz foam cannon canister? 3 oz?
 
You have to figure out the panel impact ratio. You figure this by getting the total volume of water the pressure washer puts out to empty the cannon, then add the volume of water the cannon holds. That will give you your volume, then add enough soap for 1oz/gallon.

However, CW & G will only strip the most delicate LSPs IME.
 
CG actually lists Citrus W&G as wax safe on their own website. Try Bug and Tar remover soap. It is the only one with no gloss enhancifiers and is listed as not wax safe.
 
If your gonna polish the paint you don't have to foam the car down but if your gonna just apply a lSP after stripping then a foaming the paint would make sense also it will allow the product a longer dwell time 3 oz in a 32oz sounds alright also for your wash bucket add one oz to one gallon of water
 
Photecs said:
So after reading plenty of threads and forums, it's clear that CG CWn'G is the winner when it comes to taking off any remaining LSP before adding a fresh coat.

I know some guys say use Dawn, but others TOTALLY disagree... so we'll stick with soaps that are meant for cars... makes sense.

I know doing a polish will also do this, which is more obvious - but if your paint is in good shape... here's my question:

If i'm using CG CWn'G, or similar product (comment of this if you like), the dilution ratio's are there for a 2 bucket method... but wouldn't it be a good idea to hit it with a foam cannon first... let it dwell, then maybe hit it with a mitt/2 bucket after?

IF SO - what's the ratio for a 32 oz foam cannon canister? 3 oz?
Click to expand...

To dispense 1 oz. per gallon from a foamer, add 3 oz. of soap and 9 oz. of water (or 1:3 if you want to make more or less...3:9 is what I use for a regular car). Set foamer to middle setting (setting C). Someone else did the math on this a while back on another thread. I'll post it back here if I can find it.
 
I'm not going to get into my beliefs, but...

This is some testing I just did the other day on 4 month old Adam's Machine Super Sealant topped with D156 after every wash. (This is after the winter season)

1. Power washed car
--Foam Cannon was next with 4 different shampoos--
2. AutoFinesse Avalanche (pH 13) left to dwell
3. Chemical Guys Bug & Tar Heavy Duty Car Wash Shampoo (deemed not safe for wax) left to dwell
4. IronX Snow Foam left to dwell
5. Adam's Shampoo mixed with APC left to dwell

After all of this the sealant still sheeted water...

Not much will get rid of a sealant--maybe a spray wax or weak paste wax, but a sealant; no.



I like Swanicyouth's equation of determining the shampoo dilution...I'll have to try that. I usually just test to see my results then just remember how I diluted it in the cannon.
 
Andr3wilson said:
CG actually lists Citrus W&G as wax safe on their own website. Try Bug and Tar remover soap. It is the only one with no gloss enhancifiers and is listed as not wax safe.
Click to expand...

It's a wax-safe soap at the 1oz/4-5 gallons; when used at the stripping ratio (1oz/1g) I believe it's supposed to strip waxes.

The Bug & Tar Remover and the "Citrus Wash Red" on AG's site are true stripping shampoos, right?
 
I use CG wash clear or CG wash red mixed with OPC to start the LSP stripping process. If the paint is near perfect, I'll machine apply a paint cleanser with mild abrasives and then apply another LSP.
 
I dont want to hijack a thread, but I think this applies here as well.

I have seen people adding APC to soap to strip. So if I add Fabuloso or industrial Astromat orange to my soap, this will strip all the layers or mnost of them correct?
 
wdmaccord said:
To dispense 1 oz. per gallon from a foamer, add 3 oz. of soap and 9 oz. of water (or 1:3 if you want to make more or less...3:9 is what I use for a regular car). Set foamer to middle setting (setting C). Someone else did the math on this a while back on another thread. I'll post it back here if I can find it.
Click to expand...


I think the OP will be using a foam "cannon" instead of a foam "gun" with lettered settings.
 
I will chime in, only briefly, to say that a product designed for bucket wash will do one of the following to an LSP:

1) Nothing
2) Coat it with surfactants which make it look like the LSP is diminished or gone.
3) Strip it

Chemically and in every test I have ever done, #3 has never occurred. Every single time I think it has, it has turned out to be #2. So, in all likelihood, much of the LSP stripping discussed will be nothing more than surfactant films (or a neon sign telling you that the LSP you have is not great).
 
arghhhh.... what a confusing topic - which is exactly why I posted the question.

Yes, i'll be using a foam cannon, followed by a 2 bucket wash... not that I have to use a cannon, but figured the dwelling of the suds would help remove the lsp.

If the paint is in good shape, then I really don't want to have to go through a whole polishing step if I don't have to - just want to be able to apply a new coat of wax, but don't want to mix with the old as it won't adhere properly.
I live in Southern Ontario - and I can't get a bottle of CG red up here for less then $50 (16 oz bottle at that). The CG CWn'G does have stipping ability when diluted 1:1 (according to their site).

If a low dilution wash mixed with something like OPC will help - then maybe that's the trick...

If I were to use something like a polish with no abrasives like PB Black Hole... is that enough to remove lsp - or does it need some type of abrasives to help remove it? I have Meg's D151 - but didn't think it would be a good idea to use that each and every time I did something on the car...
 
Photecs said:
arghhhh.... what a confusing topic - which is exactly why I posted the question.

If I were to use something like a polish with no abrasives like PB Black Hole...
Click to expand...

It is...

But the biggest thing to remember is that if you want to remove an old wax/sealant--coatings have to be abraded to my knowledge--you must use either a "polish" or "paint prep/cleaner". Since you don't want to use a polish--then focus on paint cleaner. There are products like:

Griots Paint Prep
CarPro Eraser
Finish Kare Soil & Coating Remover/ Wax & Detail Pre-Cleaner
Iron-X
Klean Strip Prep-All

All these can just be applied to the paint without polishing. Then all you have to do is clay.

PB BlackHole is a glaze that cleans; I assume it'd be ok to use but it has fillers in it so it's not a pure paint cleaner. Generally, Griots Paint Prep or Prep-All are fairly inexpensive and available locally if you have an AutoZone/Advance Auto/O'Reilly's near you. If you want to get in bulk, try the Finish Kare product.
 
CDot said:
It is...

But the biggest thing to remember is that if you want to remove an old wax/sealant--coatings have to be abraded to my knowledge--you must use either a "polish" or "paint prep/cleaner". Since you don't want to use a polish--then focus on paint cleaner. There are products like:

Griots Paint Prep
CarPro Eraser
Finish Kare Soil & Coating Remover/ Wax & Detail Pre-Cleaner
Iron-X
Klean Strip Prep-All
.
Click to expand...

Now THAT's what i'm talking about... this is the first time i've heard of a paint prep. I've heard plenty about CarPro Eraser... but knew it only to be the step BEFORE waxing/after polishing... didn't know it removed waxes/sealants.

Just did some reading, and lots of people seem to be fans of the Griots PP - so that's now on my list. WELL DONE SIR, you win the prize!

No point in wasting time and money on soaps that do a half @$$ job - get this stuff that works for sure.
 
Photecs said:
Now THAT's what i'm talking about... this is the first time i've heard of a paint prep. I've heard plenty about CarPro Eraser... but knew it only to be the step BEFORE waxing/after polishing... didn't know it removed waxes/sealants.

Just did some reading, and lots of people seem to be fans of the Griots PP - so that's now on my list. WELL DONE SIR, you win the prize!

No point in wasting time and money on soaps that do a half @$$ job - get this stuff that works for sure.
Click to expand...

Lol...thx, but I take back the CarPro Eraser--it's billed as a "pre-wax cleaner" so I can't say with 100% certainty that it removes waxes (I haven't used it personally). The others on the list do though :-)
 
I don't ever worry about stripping wax. If you're going to polish it won't that polish all the old off? If you clay doesn't clay remove wax?
 
I ran into a that situation with DG 105. I had to stick a rubber pice onto the bumper.
I called and asked what to use to remove it. After a lengthy conversation (kept saying buff it off), and telling them I want it GONE, it came down to IPA.

I agree with Prep-all (not Prep-sol; way more money for the same stuff.) It is used in body shops to remove everything when prepping for painting. Won't harm the paint at all. I think I paid $7 for a gallon at Carquest.

With Prep-all, or any of those, it is technique. Some people (and I saw one painter do this) think it is just a wipe-over. You have to wipe on wet and wipe off with another towel while still wet. Otherwise you can soften the old stuff and just leave it there or smear it around. Your dry towel may be looking "dirty" after a wipe. Keep changing sides on the dry one.

I go back with cheap 91% IPA after that, but I always overkill.
 
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