M105 and Flex questions.

Patrickcarter

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So I've got this stuff today I'm borrowing from a buddy of mine, and I've been reading for the last few days on the M105 and the Flex (in the past I've only used a PC) and learned that the M105 is a PITA and you can only get a few passes before it breaks. I figured I'd give it a try any way and it SUCKS, I get maybe 2 passes on a 2'x2' area with it, so I sprayed some QD on the pad before I re-applied the M105 to it and that seemed to help some I might get 4 passes now, but it still breaks down real hard to the point that I have to use QD to get the residue off. Don't get me wrong the results are OK, not fantastic, no marring or swirls, there weren't any to begin with but at least I'm not adding any, and I'm able to cut out the scratches I was trying to get out. What am I doing wrong or is this just how bad M105 really is? I can wait to move on to M205 cause it is a serious pain to remove the M105, like I said I have to use QD to get some spots off.

Thanks
Patrick
 
Are you wiping off the residue right away or waiting til vehicle is done before removing ? If it dries on the surface completely it is a pita.
 
Are you wiping off the residue right away or waiting til vehicle is done before removing ? If it dries on the surface completely it is a pita.

Right when I get done with the area I set the Flex down and wipe the area, I think what I may be doing it working the M105 until its drying, so I may need to work it less. What do you think?

Thanks
P
 
So I've got this stuff today I'm borrowing from a buddy of mine, and I've been reading for the last few days on the M105 and the Flex (in the past I've only used a PC) and learned that the M105 is a PITA and you can only get a few passes before it breaks. I figured I'd give it a try any way and it SUCKS, I get maybe 2 passes on a 2'x2' area with it, so I sprayed some QD on the pad before I re-applied the M105 to it and that seemed to help some I might get 4 passes now, but it still breaks down real hard to the point that I have to use QD to get the residue off. Don't get me wrong the results are OK, not fantastic, no marring or swirls, there weren't any to begin with but at least I'm not adding any, and I'm able to cut out the scratches I was trying to get out. What am I doing wrong or is this just how bad M105 really is? I can wait to move on to M205 cause it is a serious pain to remove the M105, like I said I have to use QD to get some spots off.

Thanks
Patrick
That's just how M105 is. Short buffing cycle, hard to remove. Go pick up some Meguiars Ultimate Compound from your local autoparts store. It's MUCH easier to work with compared to M105. Long buffing cycle, way easier to wipe off, and is close in cut to M105.
 
Not sure exactly what went wrong but maybe you used to much. Unless you have a ton of it left on the surface your 205 should take care of it. I used Z-PC in the past and it cleaned up my mistakes (too much, left on too long, etc.) nicely. I have 205 in my arsenal now and would expect about the same. I actually liked the fact I didn't have to work the stuff too long before it corrected the surface. I just waited too long to remove it.
 
Are you working in the shade?
Are you using too much product?

Try spreading the M105 thin and even across your pad.
Don't be afraid to experiment a little. Spritz a wee bit of water on there if you have too. Remove the bit of 105 thats left immediately after each section.
Keep some IPA/H20 handy to get rid of the bit of residue that remains.
 
Are you working in the shade?
Are you using too much product?

Try spreading the M105 thin and even across your pad.
Don't be afraid to experiment a little. Spritz a wee bit of water on there if you have too. Remove the bit of 105 thats left immediately after each section.
Keep some IPA/H20 handy to get rid of the bit of residue that remains.

In the shade, yes, and I'm using a single thin bead around the circumference of the pad, is that too much?

Thanks for the suggestions

Patrick
 
Meguiar's M105 is a great compound but as with other compounds there is a little learning. I hear allot of complaints from folks indicating that it dries too quickly or it "cakes" up.

One key element when using M105 is to prime the pad properly. Foam pads tend to absorb....allot. When the product is applied to an incorrectly primed pad it tends to migrate into the pad rather than working the finish.

Keep in mind that Meguiar's M105 is designed to work quickly. With a properly primed pad 3 to 4 passes over a 2 X 2 area is usually sufficient.

This link provides a nice guideline to proper pad priming.

Polishing How To with Meguiar’s M105 / M205 – Detailed Image
 
Don't get me wrong the results are OK, not fantastic, no marring or swirls, there weren't any to begin with but at least I'm not adding any, and I'm able to cut out the scratches I was trying to get out.

Sounds like 105 is working perfect! Not marring, not leaving swirls and removing the scratches you were trying to get out. What more were you wanting? With no marring, swirls and all scratches removed sounds like you are LSP ready.

However, I agree 105 is a pain to use. I spritz my pad with a little water and seems to make a nice difference. I also found priming the pad correctly does help a lot, too.

While it is finnicky on how to work with it, the results are fantastic. In my experience it works better than UC, but UC is FAR easier to work with. If UC will acheive what you are looking for, then UC is what you would want to use.
 
Here's a question.....

Everyone talks about the KB method and Priming the pad.

I'm not doubting this is the right way to go. BUT

When product becomes caked on the pad the pad loses it's cutting ability. When priming the pad doesn't this just accelerate that process and cause the need to change pads quicker?

Thanks.
 
Here's a question.....

Everyone talks about the KB method and Priming the pad.

I'm not doubting this is the right way to go. BUT

When product becomes caked on the pad the pad loses it's cutting ability. When priming the pad doesn't this just accelerate that process and cause the need to change pads quicker?

Thanks.

You need to clean the pad in-between applications of fresh product.

Remember ANYTIME you're abrading the surface whether you're using an aggressive cutting compound of an ultra fine polish, you have two things building up on the face of your buffing pad...

  • Spent product
  • Removed paint

You need to remove both of these substances from the face of the pad and the panel you're working on before you apply fresh product. If you don't,

  • Adding fresh product to spent product and removed paint adulterates the fresh product, it also dilutes it.
  • Buffing with a dirty pad will be more difficult
  • The product will cake-up on the face of the pad
  • The product will become gummy on the paint and hard to wipe off

How to clean your pads and other options to make buffing clean again...

  • You can scrub the face of the pad with a nylon brush like a pad conditioning brush or even a nylon toothbrush
  • If using a DA or a RB you can clean your pad on the fly with a terry cloth towel
  • You can wash your pads in a bucket of water
  • You can wash your pads in a sink under running water
  • You can wash your pads in a pad washer
  • You can switch to a clean, dry pad
  • You can switch to a brand new pad

:)
 
any vids on how to clean pads inbetween sections? ;-)

i only ask because i know there must be a somewhat simple way to do this so it doesn't take an enoumous amount of time inbetween panels...but from what i'm reading i feel like i'm going to spend just as much time cleaning pads inbetween sections as i will polishing....

Thanks
 
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