richy
New member
- Mar 27, 2007
- 5,158
- 0
I had the pleasure of doing a couple of his vehicles about 2 years ago. He drives 2 hours to see me and I really appreciate his loyalty. This is a 2017 E400. It needed to be compounded on the hood (see video link below), otherwise it was a single stage polish. This car was going to be getting Feynlab Self Heal Lite. I was also pulling the wheels for them as well. The paint took quite a bit to decontaminate, which is typical of white. Here it is as it arrived:
So the wheels and bottom trim were done first. The car was then rinsed off then sprayed with 3D BDX, followed by being hand washed with Feynlab soap. The top was also washed by hand with the same car soap. That was rinsed and then brought inside and clayed, old school, with Riccardo yellow + Prime as lube. An ONR wipe down followed that. The top was allowed to air dry.
The hood was swirled and needed some help. I ended up using Shine Supply's Flat Top to great use with a black wool pad and my 3401. That was followed by a white pad with M205. Here is a video I made for the customer to see the night before it was done. The video was taken when I had only compounded, and not polished, 1/2 of the hood. Here is a link:
YouTube
The remainder of paint was tried using 2 different approaches: 1- Use M205 + yellow pad followed by Squeaky Clean on a white pad or approach 2: Only use Duragloss Squeaky Clean on a white pad. I wondered how much of a difference M205 was going to make. As it turns out....not much. I worked the SC like a polish for longer than I usually do for just a cleaning step and the result was glorious. I keep having a love affair with SC!!
The wheels were pulled and the barrels cleaned first with Tarminator, followed by Squeaky Clean followed by Eraser. Then the barrels were coated by hand with DLux, using my flash cure method that makes it nice and shiny.
The faces were wiped down with Eraser and coated with Feynlab Wheel & Caliper.
The plastic wells were treated to a product to darken them up and protect the surface. Here's one completed:
The top was vacuumed after it was dry and then was treated to Duragloss 341. That stuff is wicked! It will coat anything, including cement!! I like how the 341 darkens the material a bit too...makes it look new. The head and tail lights were coated with Feynlab Ceramic. The paint was all coated with Feynlab Self Heal Lite. Here it is, getting its suntan:
This is a guy who knows how to take care of his cars, so it will stay looking brand new for 5 years (the length of the warranty). Here it is, hiding in the dark...
Here she is all done:
They were very pleased and that was what I was after. Thanks for looking!
So the wheels and bottom trim were done first. The car was then rinsed off then sprayed with 3D BDX, followed by being hand washed with Feynlab soap. The top was also washed by hand with the same car soap. That was rinsed and then brought inside and clayed, old school, with Riccardo yellow + Prime as lube. An ONR wipe down followed that. The top was allowed to air dry.
The hood was swirled and needed some help. I ended up using Shine Supply's Flat Top to great use with a black wool pad and my 3401. That was followed by a white pad with M205. Here is a video I made for the customer to see the night before it was done. The video was taken when I had only compounded, and not polished, 1/2 of the hood. Here is a link:
YouTube
The remainder of paint was tried using 2 different approaches: 1- Use M205 + yellow pad followed by Squeaky Clean on a white pad or approach 2: Only use Duragloss Squeaky Clean on a white pad. I wondered how much of a difference M205 was going to make. As it turns out....not much. I worked the SC like a polish for longer than I usually do for just a cleaning step and the result was glorious. I keep having a love affair with SC!!
The wheels were pulled and the barrels cleaned first with Tarminator, followed by Squeaky Clean followed by Eraser. Then the barrels were coated by hand with DLux, using my flash cure method that makes it nice and shiny.
The faces were wiped down with Eraser and coated with Feynlab Wheel & Caliper.
The plastic wells were treated to a product to darken them up and protect the surface. Here's one completed:
The top was vacuumed after it was dry and then was treated to Duragloss 341. That stuff is wicked! It will coat anything, including cement!! I like how the 341 darkens the material a bit too...makes it look new. The head and tail lights were coated with Feynlab Ceramic. The paint was all coated with Feynlab Self Heal Lite. Here it is, getting its suntan:
This is a guy who knows how to take care of his cars, so it will stay looking brand new for 5 years (the length of the warranty). Here it is, hiding in the dark...
Here she is all done:
They were very pleased and that was what I was after. Thanks for looking!
