McKee's 360

acuRAS82 said:
Better than Mckees 360, and Mckees Hydro Blue, right?
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I believe it is. The durability was better. This week I noticed yet more etching from bird droppings. I feel the protection is very minimal with McKee's.

With Hydro Blue, I found you have to apply a lot of it for it to really last. And it still doesn't last long.
 
NJNinja said:
With Hydro Blue, I found you have to apply a lot of it for it to really last. And it still doesn't last long.
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Understood. But you haven’t tried on bare paint yet, right? Just on the 360. Although I still only get a 4-6 weeks out of HB on bare paint if I recall. But thats better than 1-2 weeks you are getting on top of 360.
 
acuRAS82 said:
Understood. But you haven’t tried on bare paint yet, right? Just on the 360. Although I still only get a 4-6 weeks out of HB on bare paint if I recall. But thats better than 1-2 weeks you are getting on top of 360.
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That is correct, yeah. Only on top of 360. The paint and car does look good. I'm just finding poor water beading and etching far too often.
 
Update:

Had yet more bird droppings on the hood of my car last week. Wasn't on the car more than 2 days if I had to guess. I removed it and there is more etching yet again. It looks like melted plastic. I've never seen anything like it. I wasn't able to take a picture of it due to how it looked and how reflective it was. I even had my gf try.

HUGE thumbs down for McKee's. You would think between using their soap, AIO 360 AND HydroBlue Pro that I'd have sufficient protection. This will be the last time I ever use their products. Awful.

I've been fair about it and gave it a chance. Everything was applied professionally and used exactly as intended.

:confused: :mad:
 
NJNinja said:
I've been fair about it and gave it a chance. Everything was applied professionally and used exactly as intended.

:confused: :mad:
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What I was trying to point out in earlier posts was that Hydro Blue is not being applied as intended. It should be applied on bare surface or coating, so it’s hard to knock the Hydro Blue for not performing. But I understand your disappointment anyways... and although bird poi’s can sometimes be acidic and eat through clear coat easily, therefore anything, it sounds like you either have a lot of heavy-acid-poop birds lately or the protection on there (mainly 360) isn’t doing much for you. Hopefully the etchings polish off though.
 
NJNinja said:
I've been using Hydro Blue after each wash. The beading is poor and I experienced yet more etching from bird droppings that were there for 2 days. (having a hard time removing it) Not impressed at all with McKee's. I even use their soap.

These pics are 2 weeks after a wash, give or take a few days. This is the least durable product I've used. TWSNS had superior durability. Same conditions. Possibly worse conditions.
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NJNinja said:
Update:

Had yet more bird droppings on the hood of my car last week. Wasn't on the car more than 2 days if I had to guess. I removed it and there is more etching yet again. It looks like melted plastic. I've never seen anything like it. I wasn't able to take a picture of it due to how it looked and how reflective it was. I even had my gf try.

HUGE thumbs down for McKee's. You would think between using their soap, AIO 360 AND HydroBlue Pro that I'd have sufficient protection. This will be the last time I ever use their products. Awful.

I've been fair about it and gave it a chance. Everything was applied professionally and used exactly as intended.

:confused: :mad:
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Wild. Thank you for the update.
 
acuRAS82 said:
What I was trying to point out in earlier posts was that Hydro Blue is not being applied as intended. It should be applied on bare surface or coating, so it’s hard to knock the Hydro Blue for not performing. But I understand your disappointment anyways... and although bird poi’s can sometimes be acidic and eat through clear coat easily, therefore anything, it sounds like you either have a lot of heavy-acid-poop birds lately or the protection on there (mainly 360) isn’t doing much for you. Hopefully the etchings polish off though.
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I hope so too. My plan is to wash, clay, wash with dish soap (Dawn), polish those areas if need be, then move on to something else.
 
acuRAS82 said:
The beading of Hydro Blue is good though right after initial rinse, correct? It always beads real nice at first for me but I never let it sit to check durability (mostly use on my wheels every wash).

If you are using Hydro Blue on top of 360, I would imagine it’s not bonding well at all. It’s really meant for a bare service or coating topper. If you are only getting a few weeks of poor beading on bare paint I would be surprised, but not too surprised with it doing that on top of 360.
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i also limit hydro to my rims. iirc, it's not recommended for glass, and due to the cost and other options out there, I don't know many using it on the body.
 
It rained over night, which is 5 days after I did a wash. I'm already noticing the water beading is changing. I want to keep an eye on it and see what happens without using the Hydro Blue on top of the 360. It is possible that it contributed to the etching, but I'm not sure yet. Keeping Hydro for the wheels/rims is a great idea. I wish I had thought of that. My thinking was to add HB as a topper for additional protection. Trial and error...
 
NJNinja said:
It rained over night, which is 5 days after I did a wash. I'm already noticing the water beading is changing. I want to keep an eye on it and see what happens without using the Hydro Blue on top of the 360.
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Beading on the paint is changing for the better? Given it was previously really bad.
 
Update 6/18 (5 weeks):
I’ve washed 3-4 times with Hyperwash since the last update. Last wash being tonight. Car lives outside these days. Driven 10-20 miles per day. I stopped tracking the front half-roof (topped it), but the back roof remains in-glossed in any way until I see some bad behavior. Behavior is still pretty good at this point. It hasn’t really lost any performance in my opinion since week 2. Slow and steady. Not overly impressive beading but that’s expected. Definitely still beading though and protection is still good. Go figure.

Pics taken at around 1, 2, 4 and 6 seconds after hose turn off. This is ‘flat’ spray which has become my new favorite for car washes.

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I’m surprised. It must be the contaminants in the air over here that degrades it so fast.
 
acuRAS82 said:
Beading on the paint is changing for the better? Given it was previously really bad.
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Beads got larger after last rain. I washed it again with Meguiar's soap. It's going to rain at some point today so I'm curious how it does as the Hydro Blue continues to wear off.
 
NJNinja said:
About what mine look like. Mine are a tad worse.
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Still not happy with this type of beading?

If so, you should either get a sealant that you don’t mind updating regularly (every month or two?), or a ceramic spray sealant updating regularly or try a coating. The beads on my roof are pretty typical of a generic, couple month old sealant. Maybe a bit worse since this is an AIO, but the beads generally get flat with traditional sealants as they age.
 
Props for sticking it out. Kind of curious what mine would have looked like if I let it keep going.
 
Question, how long would have to wait for the AIO to completely wear off before starting fresh with something new? I'm trying to avoid having to polish it. I'd rather just let it wear off, clay and start over. I'm also considering a spray wax/sio2 to put on top. Hydro doesn't seem to work well with it.
 
NJNinja said:
Question, how long would have to wait for the AIO to completely wear off before starting fresh with something new? I'm trying to avoid having to polish it. I'd rather just let it wear off, clay and start over. I'm also considering a spray wax/sio2 to put on top. Hydro doesn't seem to work well with it.
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You asked the magic question that your thread was trying to uncover. I had mentioned that my father’s car came back to me at 6 months and still had beading, not great but appeared to still be protected.

There’s numerous ways to kill an aged sealant. If you have any IPA or paint stripper, that should do the trick along with claying. Or alone should remove it. There’s also alkaline prep soaps, paint cleaners, etc., but I assume you don’t have these. A polish itself could be used as a paint cleaner simply by quickly spreading over the car with minimal working it in.

I’m telling you way too much for the sake of info. Just clay thoroughly and if you don’t have IPA maybe you want to consider it as it will make the surface free of oils and stuff that will impact your Hydro Blue or other SiO2 products you want to use after. Or get Klean Strip Prep-All as an IPA substitute. Others here can let you know a good IPA ratio if you go that route.
 
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