acuRAS82
New member
- May 30, 2017
- 2,847
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I’ve got nothing but love for you, brother.![]()
Same!
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I’ve got nothing but love for you, brother.![]()
Not all sealants have the same water behavior. And not all hose spray patterns promote the same type of water behavior. By your definition, M21 fails from the moment it’s applied. In my definition, protection is protection. And that roof is still clearly protected.
And I don’t understand what the compromise is that’s is settling. Within 12-15 seconds these panels are 98% rid of water. And the panel looked completely clean the other day as all the pollen washed off from a moderate rain. There’s no risk of water spots.
What is your process before laying down your base sealent or wax (every 3 months). I noticed you had said that you dont polish prior. Do you do anything particular prior, or just lay it down over the maintenance waxes? *****im still trying to figure out how to "quote" only portions of someones post. Not sure if its possible using the mobile tapatalk app i use.....TBO the liquid sealant I personally use and what I consider to be the best liquid sealant ever created is a product that was discontinued about 5yrs. ago... I was able to predict it would be discontinued just before it happened and managed to pick up enough to last me the rest of my life.
It’s the same stuff you see beading on the passenger side of the roof in the experiment I posted earlier in this thread.
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How was I able to predict it would soon be discontinued? Easy, it was too good to be true. And when you have that then you also have the risk of the manufacturer somehow being dumb enough to discontinue it and that’s exactly what they did... Same exact thing happened to the TW Endura Tire Coating and there still doesn’t exist a tire product that can match what it was pound for pound.
I’ve never found another liquid sealant that can match it all things considered.. But if I were to recommend something that Should work I guess things like Collonite come to mind? However I’m pretty sure that’s technically a durable carnuba wax and therefore wouldn’t pair best with my other recommendation to go with it, which is Beadmaker.
So because of that I guess I’d probably recommend something like Meguiars Ultimate Fast Finish as a base layer then topped with Beadmaker as a drying aid every single time the truck is washed [that includes quik detail wipedowns and waterless washes] Every 1-2 weeks with some Beadmaker and at least 4 times per year a dedicated base layer with the Meguiars Ultimate Fast Finish.
That process Shouldn’t need any special reseting or re starting from scratch which is something I always like to not have to constantly do.
That’s exactly how I treat my own car. I just make sure to lay down that dedicated layer of sealant every 3 months, no special prep needed, I certainly don’t have to polish my car for the foreseeable future unless I have somekind of burning desire to have fun [which we can all relate to]
P.S. Based on your own current description saying that the “gloss is great” tells me that you maintain it washed and clean at most times and that alone will carry it much futher than the same truck left in the hands of an owner doesn’t care or have the time to keep their truck anywhere near as clean as yours.
Keep that in mind and you’ll see you have almost nothing to actually worry about.![]()
What is your process before laying down your base sealent or wax (every 3 months). I noticed you had said that you dont polish prior. Do you do anything particular prior, or just lay it down over the maintenance waxes? *****im still trying to figure out how to "quote" only portions of someones post. Not sure if its possible using the mobile tapatalk app i use.....
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That’s correct, no prep needed, just a simple bucket wash & dry and apply a new layer of sealant over the maintenance wax [Beadmaker]
As far as quoting just a portion of someones post via Tapatalk: Yes it’s very easy, all you have to do is “edit” the quote, but make sure to leave the beginning and end of the quote in tact so that it posts correctly.
Yup. Thx brotha!!!!Hmmm....hopefully this works lol...
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Yup. Thx brotha!!!!
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The beading of Hydro Blue is good though right after initial rinse, correct? It always beads real nice at first for me but I never let it sit to check durability (mostly use on my wheels every wash).I've been using Hydro Blue after each wash. The beading is poor and I experienced yet more etching from bird droppings that were there for 2 days. (having a hard time removing it) Not impressed at all with McKee's. I even use their soap.
These pics are 2 weeks after a wash, give or take a few days. This is the least durable product I've used. TWSNS had superior durability. Same conditions. Possibly worse conditions.
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The beading of Hydro Blue is good though right after initial rinse, correct? It always beads real nice at first for me but I never let it sit to check durability (mostly use on my wheels every wash).
If you are using Hydro Blue on top of 360, I would imagine it’s not bonding well at all. It’s really meant for a bare service or coating topper. If you are only getting a few weeks of poor beading on bare paint I would be surprised, but not too surprised with it doing that on top of 360.
Right. The beading initially is good. But it drops off dramatically a week or so later. I have 360 on it, then use the HB on top. I'm out of the HB now so I will just continue to wash the car the remainder of the year and probably apply something different come next winter.
If you think the 360 dies prior, do you have anything else to put on as LSP before fall?