Megs MF System Test Spot and Questions

XLNTShine

XLNTShine

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Before:

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After:

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50/50 on Tape Line:

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Here I tried to get the test spot and rest of the hood but didn't show well...

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A few questions....

I noticed I am getting swirls in the paint toward the end of the section pass. I am using the D300 with the cutting pad, and the Megs backing plate. The truck had been driven and the hood was still on the warmer side of hot after washing. Do you think the product may be drying out because of the heat and the dust putting marks back into the paint. Overall it removed 80% of the swirls and the scratches are GONE!

One other thing I notices was that my pad showed some blue tint on the outer 1/2" of the pad. I kinda freaked at first but the finish looked fine. No burns that I can see.

Might this have been from the blue painters tape? I did hit that with the pad a few times. I would not have seen it on most pads but the pink color of the Megs D300 showed it as a darker area with just a slight, slight, hit if purple or blue.

Thanks!!

Feed back please
 
Also to those who have used this system.. did you use speed setting 3 or 4 on the Griots DA? I was using 5.. maybe that is why the product was producing some swirls and drying so fast?
 
XLNTShine said:
Also to those who have used this system.. did you use speed setting 3 or 4 on the Griots DA? I was using 5.. maybe that is why the product was producing some swirls and drying so fast?
Click to expand...

I have an old PC, for D300 I use speed of 4 and 3.5 for polish.
Open your hood for 15 min and allow to cool before you start work.
I usually make 5 passes, 2 heavy pressure, 2 firm pressure, 1 no pressure.
 
Speed 5 on Griots sounds a little too high.

Doug's suggestions all seem on point.
 
About the blue transfer.
It probably is the tape.
I have gotten both blue and green tape color transfer on my pads from tape.
 
dougaross said:
I have an old PC, for D300 I use speed of 4 and 3.5 for polish.
Open your hood for 15 min and allow to cool before you start work.
I usually make 5 passes, 2 heavy pressure, 2 firm pressure, 1 no pressure.
Click to expand...

5 passes with just D300 only? How about D301?
 
I used 3.5 when I did mine with the griots. Didn't have any problems with it creating any new swirls.
 
Well I finished the hood and turned the speed back to 3.5 and 4 trying different speeds. At 3.5 I had a hard time keeping the pad moving do I kicked it up to 4. The blue transfer was in fact from the blue tape. Working on blue paint I was a bit nervous.

The D300 finishes down pretty nice, it looks like the new swirls were possibly swirls I did not get out in the first pass. The second pass took out the swirls but the deeper scratches are still there.

I hit the test spot with M105 and a HT Orange pad and there was no improvement so I left it alone for now. Maybe the cyan with the 105 would hit those.

I also experienced the dreaded MF adhesive failure, when starting the second part of the hood I was cleaning the pad and it flew apart. I am starting to wonder if there is something up with the adhesive on these pads? The backing tore away and took some of the foam with it. Man do those things take off.. it was not even spinning fast I had my brush on the pad cleaning it.

Overall I think this system about the same as the Wolfgang's TSR and a HT cyan pad that I used on my Cavalier. I wonder if the D300 and MF is less abrasive then the cyan and TSR?

Thanks for the help guys. I am going to start working in the fenders tomorrow. It sure does take a while to do the job right!
 
Looks good so far :) The D300/mf system was not developed for deep problems, so don't get upset if they don't take out those spots. Grab M105/Cyan and it will knock it out, may have to hit it with M105/Surbuf if it's hard paint. I use mine D300/mf cutting pad on speed 4 on the Griot's. Each paint is different so the number of passes may differ. For example, I polished a 2003 Mitsubishi Evolution recently and the paint was so soft that I only made 3 passes and it was finished - 1 horizontal, 1 vertical, 1 horizontal. Another car that I used it on I made 6 passes total. Out of 6 pads I've had one failure with the adhesive, the middle of the pad is hard as a rock but it didn't come apart. Give them some time and I'm sure they will work the bugs out, don't form an opinion just yet. Remember Lake Country had an adhesive problem with a couple pads at first? It's bound to happen with new products and mass production.

Keep up the good work :xyxthumbs:
 
when i clean my mf pads i use an air compressor and i havent had any problems yet. and id say the same about the MF system being the same as the wolfgang twins but atleast WG gives you an option of what lsp you want.
 
The only pad I had fail was after I was abusing it. Way too much pressure. Was the pad you had fail the one you were using at high speeds and/or high pressure?
 
detailgod said:
can you just top the D301 with another LSP?
Click to expand...

Jhaight11 said:
when i clean my mf pads i use an air compressor and i havent had any problems yet. and id say the same about the MF system being the same as the wolfgang twins but atleast WG gives you an option of what lsp you want.
Click to expand...

You can top the D301 with what ever LSP you want... I did my Z3 with Megs MF system then topped with MaxWax! Looks dripping wet now!
 
CrownKote said:
You can top the D301 with what ever LSP you want... I did my Z3 with Megs MF system then topped with MaxWax! Looks dripping wet now!
Click to expand...
wow, i was under the assumption you had to atleast let it bond before adding anything to it. might try my p21S 100% wax over it tomorrow.
 
If I use the D301 but don't want the wax properties can I remove it with an IPA wipe down or is that not strong enough? I don't have anything else for final polishing besides pinnacle pre-wax which I don't believe will do the trick.
 
Jhaight11 said:
wow, i was under the assumption you had to atleast let it bond before adding anything to it. might try my p21S 100% wax over it tomorrow.
Click to expand...

I give it about an hour between those coats...

dougaross said:
I wouldn't put a sealant over wax
Click to expand...

MaxWax isn't a sealant... I would say that a sealant is not a good choice but I have a buddy that did the MF system and topped with CQuartz and it looks amazing!
 
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