Meguiars DA MF System vs. Flex 3401, LC Orange Pad, M105 *PICS*

WRAPT C5Z06

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I had some time today to test different methods on a 2007 Dodge RAM. I did not use the MF finishing wax, so I guess I shouldn't have titled it "system"

Here's what I started with. I forgot to snap a photo when the sun was out, so I had to use the brinkmann. The brinkmann doesn't show how BAD the swirls were like the sun did. Oh well...

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FIRST PASSES

Below, I used the Flex 3401(speed 6), M105, LC 5.5" Orange Pad. 4 section passes with firm pressure. Still noticeable swirling.


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Below, I used the Griot's DA(speed 3.5), 5.5" MF cutiing disc, and D300. 4 section passes with firm pressure. Still very slight swirling, but much better!


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SECOND PASSES- same technique as first passes. I moved the truck to get better sun.

Flex 3401...As you can see there's still swirling. Looks worse than the first pass. The sun is brighter in these pics!



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Griot's DA...Looks excellent!


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In conclusion, some might say that I wasn't using an aggressive enough pad with the 3401, well, I used a more aggressive compound in M105. Also, the second pass didn't yield better much results. Also, remember, I did the correction on the Griot's at ONLY speed 3.5 while the 3401 was at full throttle!! This goes to show the POWER of a traditional DA vs. a forced rotation DA. I worked on this same truck a long time ago and I remember getting frustrated using the 3401 with LC cyan/M105 and the surbufs finished with a lot of micro-marring. The MF system is revolutionary, IMO.
 
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After reading reviews from Pro's and others I trust then hearing my buddy down in Charlotte tell me how good the cutting pads and D300 are I ordered some tonight. Great pics thanks for sharing
 
Awesome write up to compare the new system vs what was previously one of the go to choices for defects.

This new system seems to be making things easier and easier for us.
 
Thanks for this Mark. Looks like I will be forking out some more money this week, but hey at least I will get a pretty hefty discount.
 
Did you do any IPA wipedowns after any of those?
 
Did you do any IPA wipedowns after any of those?
I used Griot's Pre-wax cleaner(after all passes) which is specifically used to remove polishing oils and leave a bare surface.
 
No problem guys. I think if I used heavy pressure with the Griot's, it would have looked perfect in one pass(4 section passes).
 
Thanks for the comparison Mark. It's crazy to read normal DA beats forced DA! Reminds me of a while back when someone said "my PC using the KB method has my rotary sitting on the shelf". I really need to test this system out!
 
nice little write-up, thanks for sharing. as i've mentioned many times before, when someone having to choose a DA for the first time, i would recommend/opt for the traditional DA like the GG6, G110v2, etc, (why i do like my Flex, i could do without it) first (more versatile), as technology with new products/pads have changed things and are only advancing. who knows what's ahead of us and what will come out next. does one think that things wouldn't change?
 
I used Griot's Pre-wax cleaner(after all passes) which is specifically used to remove polishing oils and leave a bare surface.

Is this a must? Do I need to remove the old waxes and sealants? Ill probably be looking you up soon as I'll be trying this out for the first time (Megs DA MF).

Nice work on the write up and vehicle
 
Is this a must? Do I need to remove the old waxes and sealants? Ill probably be looking you up soon as I'll be trying this out for the first time (Megs DA MF).

Nice work on the write up and vehicle
Thanks, and no you don't need to remove wax or sealants prior to polishing, the polishing will remove them. You will want to do an IPA or Griots pre wax cleaner wipedown after you do your test spot to remove polishing oils to see your true results. Griots pre wax cleaner is a spray. Wipe on, wipe off.
 
nice Mark!

looks like ill be getting the GG and the MF system soon :)
 
Thanks, and no you don't need to remove wax or sealants prior to polishing, the polishing will remove them. You will want to do an IPA or Griots pre wax cleaner wipedown after you do your test spot to remove polishing oils to see your true results. Griots pre wax cleaner is a spray. Wipe on, wipe off.

Is there any difference in your opinion as to which one cleans better? (IPA or the GG)
 
Thanks, and no you don't need to remove wax or sealants prior to polishing, the polishing will remove them. You will want to do an IPA or Griots pre wax cleaner wipedown after you do your test spot to remove polishing oils to see your true results. Griots pre wax cleaner is a spray. Wipe on, wipe off.

Why do I need to do the pre wax cleaner? What does it do? And what's this test spot you speak of?
 
Why do I need to do the pre wax cleaner? What does it do? And what's this test spot you speak of?
A test spot is the taped off square you'll see in the second link below. You want to do a test spot before you do the whole car so you can see if you're getting the results you desire. You don't wanna buff the whole car, pull it out into the sun, and still see a bunch of swirls. You eliminate this by taping off a small test spot. After you compound your test spot, you'll want to wipe the area with IPA(more readily available than Griot's, but will do the same thing) http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ow-mix-ipa-inspecting-correction-results.html to remove all polishing oils that may cover up swirls that are still there. This will give you true inspection results from your polishing.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...le-7424xp-g110v2-griot-s-garage-polisher.html
 
A test spot is the taped off square you'll see in the second link below. You want to do a test spot before you do the whole car so you can see if you're getting the results you desire. You don't wanna buff the whole car, pull it out into the sun, and still see a bunch of swirls. You eliminate this by taping off a small test spot. After you compound your test spot, you'll want to wipe the area with IPA(more readily available than Griot's, but will do the same thing) http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ow-mix-ipa-inspecting-correction-results.html to remove all polishing oils that may cover up swirls that are still there. This will give you true inspection results from your polishing.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...le-7424xp-g110v2-griot-s-garage-polisher.html

Those are some crazy long and detailed articles.....better get something to drink and hit the bathroom before hand!! ;) Thanks for that info!!!!!!!! :props:
 
Those are some crazy long and detailed articles.....better get something to drink and hit the bathroom before hand!! ;) Thanks for that info!!!!!!!! :props:
LOL!! I went through the same thing when I started a few years back. Hang in there, you'll get it in no time!! :dblthumb2: Detailing is SO much fun!
 
Great test Mark! Thanks for taking the time to share it with us. I do find it amazing how the MF compound can be so effective at only setting 3.5 and finish down so well.

On a side note do you find you have to wipe the paint down after D300? I often have a film of sorts on the paint creating what looks like holograms that wont wipe off by towel alone. I have to pull out IPA to get rid of it.
 
Working on the new-to-me white 4x4 over the last couple of days I came to the same conclusion with a much less disciplined process. In some spots on the sides it looked like the previous owner had driven through some underbrush leaving trailers and what looked to be mild, shallow scratches. 2 - 3 firm passes with the MF wasn't cutting it. I reached for the rotary, 105 and PFW and it leveled 'em right out. Then I had to deal with the splatter, dust and less-than-pleasing wipe-off of the 105. I forgot what a pain in the neck that stuff can be. :doh:

The light bulb finally went on and I tried the MF Correcting Compound on a clean, primed PFW with the rotary. Worked as good as the 105 with no mess, no dust and easy wipeoff and minimal marring. A light pass with the MF on the GG finished it off nicely. The pads and correcting and finishing capabilites aside, I find one of the sweetest bonuses of this system is the easy and clean wipeoff, even if it gets considerably drier than you'd want it to be. Wipes off clean around pinstripes and nooks and crannies too. :xyxthumbs:

I'm thinking the MF system along with PFW and perhaps some Surbuffs might be all a guy might need to handle even challenging corrections. Save the rotary and M105 for removing sanding scratches. Then again, I haven't tried the Correcting Compound and PFW after sanding yet. I may be getting rid of a lot of foam pads...

I also have yet to use the Finishing Wax as the white finish was LSP ready under the halogens and Brinkmann so I figured to go straight to 845. Ran out of time so I had to wipe a quick coat of Opti Seal on before taking it out in the snow. It's a real pain doing the job in steps because you've got to drive somewhere. :(

TL
 
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