Menzerna steps for new 2015 VW in white?

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Borsig

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What would be the proper steps, using menzerna on a brand new 2015 VW golf? (white)

I am thinking
Clay
SF4000 (sine paint is so hard)
power lock


Thoughts?
 
You should add Iron X as a step after washing, and before claying, especially on a white car. You would be surprised at how much contamination/rail dust there may be on a new car. The rest of your steps look solid.
 
Wash the vehicle.

Then decontaminate. You can use clay, a clay substitute (mitts/block etc), chemicals like tar and iron removers, or a combination. Claying would, IMO, be the one step I would not leave out. With white the cleaner you get the paint the better it looks (as with all paint, but white tends to contrast with the dirt on paint more than say black, which tends to contrast with swirls better) so I agree, if your budget allows it, then adding in an iron remover step to be sure you have removed ALL of the iron contamination (which to me, makese sense when you are starting out with a new car) is definitely a good thing.

Then when it comes to selecting a polish you should conduct a test spot(s) starting with your least aggressive combination of pad/polish - in this case SF4000 is a good starting point. Their paint is somewhat on the harder side (generally) so perhaps if you really needed to on a brand new car with some heavier swirling, a medium cut polish would be needed (say like PF2500). You will only know what works for you on your car, once you do your test spots...:dblthumb2:

What machine, pads and polishes do you already have?
 
I have the Harbor freight pro da machine, which works well.

The only system ive used us the meguiars microfiber da system which worked well on my old black car.

This is a new car, and I dont see that many swirls and ibdont think it needs the correction that kit offers.

I need polish, sealant, and pads. While I'm sure blackfire and wolfgang is nice, I feel there's alot of marketing and boutique there. I want a product that's professional and works, I kind of feel the others are more expensive, due only to marketing, and aren't better than menzerna. (From research ive read only)

I think I need to decontaminate, polish and seal. Then from there its maintenance.

I neglected that black car. I didnt treat it like I did my old bmw. This car will not be neglected, and I want the paint sealed.

I got white because black is hard to take care of on a DD. And, I dont like silver.
 
As already suggested, i also like to fully decontaminate before any machine work and by that i mean the extra effort of iron and any tar/heavier "gunk" removal...if any. I've also done a few VW's and all have been medium to hard clears but your test spot(s) will help you determine what approach satisfies you.
 
Would ff3000 be a better choice than sf4000?

I don't have alot of time or budget to fiddle with polish testing and sampling. This is a DD, but I want it to stand out and be protected.

For $20 the iron x seems prudent, and well reviewed.
 
I personally like the 4000 as your first test area. If it isn't scarred up too bad being new that may be all you need to give you what you're looking for. I usually go from 4000 to 2500 as the next progression and might play with my pads a bit too. 2500 finishes so darn nice too!

And i don't overapply iron X. I spray it somewhat conservatively and then spritz a grout sponge and wipe it all over the vehicle. Then let it sit but NOT dry.
 
The 4000 seems logical, given vw's history with paint, and the car being new. With it being white, I don't think ill see the return on effort that people with colors do.

I unfortunately missed out on the 20 percent and free shipping at $50. Otherwise I would have tried the Wolfgang deep gloss combo sold here. However i can source powerlock and 4000 elsewhere for much cheaper when you factor in the shipping.

Lake county pads - I was thinking black for polish, red for sealer.

Eta - there ARE fine swirls in the car, just not alot
 
I've used a white LC pad with SF4000 before and notice a little more bite on certain paints but black and red for what you're planning sounds good. Again, look very carefully at what that gives you after a test area and adjust accordingly. I just recently read again Mike P's post about "What White Paint Teaches Us" and there's a bunch of good info in that. I treat ALL paint the same...it's just that whites, silvers, etc. are harder to evaluate after correction attempts. My all time favorite LSP pad is the LC gold's. Like putting it on with velvet!

Good luck and have fun doing it! :xyxthumbs:
 
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