604_Snooze
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- Oct 30, 2011
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did you guys have to upgrade your garage outlet to use this?
Metro MasterBlaster 8hp vs Leaf Blower
- Thread starter atoy
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I'm sorry but I disagree with you on this comment. I do Water Damage Restoration for living. We extract water from flooded homes and dry out the following with air movers: carpet, pad, wood floors, drywall and structure. Most of the air movers we use are around 3000 cfm. Air movement is very important. Most leaf blowers are between 300-700 cfm which pretty weak and not that much air. Additionally, most leaf blowers are between 130-200 mph and is a big part of moving leafs.
I agree with you on second paragraph.
FUNX650
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- Dec 1, 2010
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Since the MasterBlaster is rated at 130-229 CFM...Does that make it pretty weak, also?
I have used this before:
I attached a 12ft x 1.5" flexible vacuum cleaner hose, with a crevice tool on the business end, to my leaf blower.
Will this "restricted air-flow" going through the "now smaller diameter hose than the original 4" leaf blower's snout", plus the further restriction caused by the crevice tool attachment, be equivalent to the MasterBlaster's "restricted air-flow" with the same hose diameter and the hose attachments?
Just wondering...
Bob
High Five said the CFM is more important than MPH which I disagree with for moving leafs.
Has nothing to do with Masterblaster.
130-220 CFM is very good considering it is a small 1.5" hose that tapered down for a reason.
The reason it is tapered is to increase velocity and reduce cfm. The design is to hold up close and have velocityto move water out of the way. In this case CFM isn't as important as velocity. You could increase CFM by removing the tapered attachment. But at the same time it would decrease velocity/mph making the tool less effective.
If you read the following Metro MasterBlaster You will find out they mention feet per minute because that is what the machine is made for. Not CFM. Feet per minute can be calculated in mph and is also called velocity.
The reason it is tapered is to increase velocity and reduce cfm. The design is to hold up close and have velocityto move water out of the way. In this case CFM isn't as important as velocity. You could increase CFM by removing the tapered attachment. But at the same time it would decrease velocity/mph making the tool less effective.
If you read the following Metro MasterBlaster You will find out they mention feet per minute because that is what the machine is made for. Not CFM. Feet per minute can be calculated in mph and is also called velocity.
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Mike Burke
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- Aug 30, 2009
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I bought a Circuiteer II. It's advertised as a cattle blower / dryer but I think its comparable to the metro. It's a great tool. A little pricey but I use it every time I wash a car. I think It's a lot easier to use the hose instead of hoisting a leaf blower all over . I'm glad I
spent the money for one.
spent the money for one.
fredcandetail
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- Jan 5, 2011
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Not sure how cfm is on my 20 gal air compressor at 180 psi but it works to blow out the crevices but not so hot to move the air like what this dryer does ... Now as far as speeding things up .. Well maybe on your personal DD that gets pampered maybe but on DD that never get cared for and there is no beading or protection you can kiss this tool goodbye.
Long of the short is these are good when your finish is protected and cared for and for the folks that get their car detailed once a year or more NO DICE
Long of the short is these are good when your finish is protected and cared for and for the folks that get their car detailed once a year or more NO DICE
if you lower the cfm on the machine to lets say an air compressor. Which is super high velocity and very low cfm it wouldn't perform the same as masterblaster and wouldn't have heat. It still may be effective for the fact that it has a ton of velocity but increasing the cfm may help for car drying on a compressor.
I'd say the Cfm and Velocity are perfect on the Master Blaster. Plus the air is filtered.
Gas leaf blowers put out a ton of stinky exhaust that may make an interior smell bad.
WITH ANY TOOL THAT MOVES AIR - Ultimately you are trying to find the perfect balance between velocity and CFM to make the tool most effective for its specialty
I'd say the Cfm and Velocity are perfect on the Master Blaster. Plus the air is filtered.
Gas leaf blowers put out a ton of stinky exhaust that may make an interior smell bad.
WITH ANY TOOL THAT MOVES AIR - Ultimately you are trying to find the perfect balance between velocity and CFM to make the tool most effective for its specialty
Think about a very windy day in the fall maybe 35 MPH winds. That's a relatively low speed but a lot of air moving. Watch the leaves blow.
604_Snooze
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does anyone have both the MB and the vac n blo?
how do they compare if just 1 motor is on for the mb?
how do they compare if just 1 motor is on for the mb?
TheCougarGuy
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- Apr 13, 2010
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You really need a 20 amp circuit (using 12 gauge wire).
I used mine on Saturday and I plugged it into a 15 amp circuit in my sunroom (just to try). If you turn on both motors at the same time, the circuit will blow. When I turned turned on one motor at a time, waiting for the first motor to run for about 5 seconds before turning on the 2nd, it worked fine.
IndeedSS
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- May 13, 2008
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I need to see what amp breaker mine is on, although it must be a 20. I have at least 4 flourescent light bulbs on when using the MB and havn't thrown a breaker yet. However, the extension cord I'm using is very heavy gauge. I don't remember the gauge used, since we made it in '82 or so.
And amp up the speed to 200mph and it will really move. The velocity on a leaf blower is very high when compared to the cfm. 700cfm isn't that much compared to 200mph velocity. If it was all CFM you could just take an air mover that has a 3 times the CFM with 30mph velocity and it doesn't work like leaf blower because it needs more velocity.
FUNX650
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It would be a terrific idea to do so!
And since your talking about using an electrical appliance in a "wet environment"....A dedicated, 20-25 amp, GFCI protected outlet would be ideal.
IndeedSS
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- May 13, 2008
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rops:
Bunky
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- Jun 20, 2007
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One key aspect on air moving devices is handling of back pressure. When you impede the airflow, depending on the fan motor/impeller design, airflow can drop off dramatically. Airflow specs are often rated at specific back pressure since airflow drops off with back pressure.
You can hear this stalling effect due to back pressure happen since the fan motor will actually speed up (shop vacs do this easily). That is, they have good airflow until they get resistance. From my experiments, I know the metro vacs are better at this than the typical shop / vac.
You can hear this stalling effect due to back pressure happen since the fan motor will actually speed up (shop vacs do this easily). That is, they have good airflow until they get resistance. From my experiments, I know the metro vacs are better at this than the typical shop / vac.
How long did you leave it running?
Household breakers have both a thermal and a magnetic trip function. The thermal function trips when the breaker heats up due to a continious overload and often takes some time to trip. Depending on the amount of overload it may be a few seconds or take several minutes. The breaker is designed to trip before any wires heat up to the point of melting which is why someone should NEVER just change out to a higher rated breaker without upgrading the wires.
The magnetic trip function trips due to the increase in the magnetic field around the circuit at the breaker. This is a very fast trip but takes a lot of current to increase the magnetic field enough such as a dead short. Electric motors have a momentary spike at startup which is the Locked Rotor Amp (LRA) rating. Most household motors such as sump pumps, vacuums, and refrigeraters exceed a breakers AMP rating at startup but it is not high enough or long enough to trip the breaker and is perfectly safe. Turning on both motors at exactly the same time was high enough to induce the magnetic trip.
I agree that you really need a 20 AMP circuit for the Master Blaster.
FUNX650
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IMO.......
For brick&mortar shops/personal residence:
There would more efficient current usage with the 220v 8hp MB vs. the 110v 8hp MB.
For mobile detail operations:
1.)There would have to be an on-board generator capable of 110v & 220v current supply ($$$).
2.) Access to a 220v power source at someone's residence/business. (Earlier references to being professional could be taken under advisement for this scenario).
Bob