MF D300 leaves lines after wipe off

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The Count

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Hey guys ok I have the D300 and D301 and mf discs after I D300 it, btw I have a flex, after I wipe it off it leaves little lines, they look like scratches but they do wipe off, but when I go over them again and push really hard they can come off but it induces more lines, its wierd. Using optimum mfs, have you ever heard of this before or know what it is? So you thought maybe the mfs were bad well I tried it with a meguiars mf and it did the same thing, it happends with D301 a little too, once it starts with the uc its hard to stop.


What is this and do you know how to get rid of it?
 
The Count said:
Hey guys ok I have the D300 and D301 and mf discs after I D300 it, btw I have a flex, after I wipe it off it leaves little lines, they look like scratches but they do wipe off, but when I go over them again and push really hard they can come off but it induces more lines, its weird. Using optimum mfs, have you ever heard of this before or know what it is? So you thought maybe the mfs were bad well I tried it with a meguiars mf and it did the same thing, it happends with D301 a little too, once it starts with the uc its hard to stop.


What is this and do you know how to get rid of it?
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If they wipe off then after removing the residue try moving on to the next step for a section. Buff the section using the D301 and then inspect the paint.

Let the next product do the removing and because it's leaving behind wax it will be a lot easier to wipe-off and you should see a clear finish.


:)
 
Are these fine scratches or toweling marks? Or is it from the product itself? From my intial thoughts you're using too much product and not cleaning the pads often enough. Maybe clumps of product is being flung around and landing on the paint and then when you wipe down its spreading. IDK...maybe posts some pics?
 
Towling marks that what they sound like, it gets the haze off but then it leaves trailing marks and the marks are the haze again get it, like if you go up and down then there will be marks like 1/16" wide sparaticaly and if you go in circles it kinda looks like swirls, they come off but when you try to take them off you put more of them on there, its really weird and wondering if this happend to you guys before
 
The Count said:
Towling marks that what they sound like, it gets the haze off but then it leaves trailing marks and the marks are the haze again get it, like if you go up and down then there will be marks like 1/16" wide sparaticaly and if you go in circles it kinda looks like swirls, they come off but when you try to take them off you put more of them on there, its really weird and wondering if this happend to you guys before
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If the marks are in the direction that you use the towels, then it's toweling marks. You must be working with very soft paint. Not much you can do about it.
 
If the paint is soft enough to scratch by simply wiping off, machine apply a cleaner/wax like XMT 360 or Meguiar's ColorX, something with a light abrading ability.

Use the wet buffing technique. There's an article on this in my article list.

Leave a thin coat to dry to a haze

Carefully wipe off the wax

The cleaners in the cleaner/wax work out the fine toweling marks

The wax acts as a lubricant to allow you to remove the residue without leaving a scratch.


Remember, dried wax is a type of dry lubricant, people been waxing their snow skis and surfboards for decades.


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
If the paint is soft enough to scratch by simply wiping off, machine apply a cleaner/wax like XMT 360 or Meguiar's ColorX, something with a light abrading ability.

Use the wet buffing technique. There's an article on this in my article list.

Leave a thin coat to dry to a haze

Carefully wipe off the wax

The cleaners in the cleaner/wax work out the fine toweling marks

The wax acts as a lubricant to allow you to remove the residue without leaving a scratch.


Remember, dried wax is a type of dry lubricant, people been waxing their snow skis and surfboards for decades.


:)
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Another product that works very well on soft paint is the Sonax Nano Technology paint cleaner. It has very light correction ability and does leave some protection like an all in one.
Very good product for paint that is hard to finish out defect free.

SONAX Paint Cleaner, sonax prewax cleaner, sonax car polish, sonax cleaner polish

autogeek_2213_54173569
 
Its not scratches guys its just trails of remaining compound.
 
Have you tried a brand new MF to wipe down, What have you washed your MF towels with? Maybe mist your MF with water.
 
I usually put them in with woolite or tide. I even tried onr with it, the clay diluted spray, and the megs mf was bran-spankin-new.
 
The Count said:
Its not scratches guys its just trails of remaining compound.
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Mist your MF with IPA diluted to about 12% and then wipe off the polishing residue. You should be golden. You could also try CarPro Eraser (I've never used it before) I hear tons of good things about it though. That should give you a streak free finish when you wipe off your compound or polishing residue and further prep the paint for your LSP.
 
Nicholas@Autowerx said:
Mist your MF with IPA diluted to about 12% and then wipe off the polishing residue. You should be golden. You could also try CarPro Eraser (I've never used it before) I hear tons of good things about it though. That should give you a streak free finish when you wipe off your compound or polishing residue and further prep the paint for your LSP.
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Good think man, I bet your idea will work, is all Ipa the same, like do you guys order it from ag or just go to walgreens and pic it up?

And you don't use it straight? So do like a 1 part ipa 10 parts water?
 
I just used D300 for the first time had same experience for the first few tries, and that was with a brand new pad primed before. Once I put light on the section I could see residual lines that took a bit more rubbing to get out. I think it might of been from using a bit too much compound or not working it enough. Once I got into it and figured it out, seems the lines were not there as often. Also IPA did help to remove them, I used 10%.
 
The Count said:
Good think man, I bet your idea will work, is all Ipa the same, like do you guys order it from ag or just go to walgreens and pic it up?

And you don't use it straight? So do like a 1 part ipa 10 parts water?
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I'm not sure if AG sells it but if you go to a grocery store or something similar you will find all the IPA you will ever need. For simplicity I recommend looking for 99% IPA because it is just easier in my opinion to dilute it, plus it pretty much costs the same as the 70% or lower dilutions.

And yeah, don't use it straight, it is WAY too strong and must be diluted. Mike had a thread on using IPA and proper dilution levels a few weeks back. Try doing a search for IPA and you should be able to find it. I dilute it to about 12% and I can barely smell the chemical when I spray it. It saves so much time for panels that I accidentally use too much product on.
 
TurtleRA said:
I just used D300 for the first time had same experience for the first few tries, and that was with a brand new pad primed before. Once I put light on the section I could see residual lines that took a bit more rubbing to get out. I think it might of been from using a bit too much compound or not working it enough. Once I got into it and figured it out, seems the lines were not there as often. Also IPA did help to remove them, I used 10%.
Click to expand...

Since the above was your first post to out forum...

Welcome to Autogeek Online!


:welcome:
 
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