My Waterless/Rinseless wash method

Pats300zx said:
It seems in the video that you were taking so long to just do one panel. Was that just for the purpose of making the video? If not, how long does this method take you?
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I got carried away talking and covering all information I could think of.

Of course it does not take this long. The whole route with the WW/RW and Spray wax takes an hour or so.

Setec Astronomy said:
You mentioned saving the rocker panels for last because they are the dirtiest...does that matter when you are using the "single use" wash media method?

IMO you shouldn't be drying the panel until the panel is clean, so the drying towel shouldn't be getting dirty, so is that conventional wash "top down" conventional wisdom really applicable to this method?

I know it's not a perfect world and it's safer to do it as you suggest, I just thought this was another key advantage of the "single use" media method, is not going around and around the car working your way down, the way you would with a RW and a (rinse) bucket. For instance, if I'm rinseless washing with a single piece of media and a rinse bucket, I'm going to probably split that into "above the beltline" and "below the beltline" and go around the whole car twice (after doing the windows, roof, hood, and trunk).

You already did the top and bottom of the door in one shot, so if it was me I'd likely just continue and do the rocker panel, I'd just make sure to wrap around the bottom of it with the wash towel to make sure I didn't pick up any dirt on my drying towel from that area.

Of course then we get into the whole issue of if you've used that wash towel under the rocker panel, do you ever want to use that on the hood of your black car again, even after washing the towel. So I guess there's a good question, do you use dedicated media (washing and drying) when you go back and do the rocker panels?

I'm not trying to give you a hard time, and hey, the purpose of your thread was to show "your method" after all, I'm just playing a little Devil's advocate, but I have a headache now from thinking about this too much.
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This is the way I do it. Feel free to do it in a way that suits you.


AZ Mike said:
Thank you for taking the time for such an in depth write up and video. Is the paint on the BMW coated?
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Thank you AZ Mike.

Coated
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ct-review-pinnacle-paint-coating-synergy.html

Kamakaz1961 said:
Mike as always thank you for the information!!

Mike Phillips aka Yoda

Mike at Dedicated Perfection aka Obi Wan Kanobi

Me aka Jabba the Hut

May the Force Be With You
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Thanks CJ!

I just enjoy sharing what I do. Im nothing special.
 
Hi Mike, great write up and car looks fantastic.
I haven't used waterless/rinseless wash method yet but I have some questions to ask. My source of water for washing is well water so I use CR Spotless filtering system and car is outside 24/7. I still get water spots, maybe from pollution and lots of rain. I am guessing yours may be outside 24/7 also, have you had spotting issues after using your method? Does a coating and this method eliminate water spotting from pollution and rain? I do live in Washington where we get lots of rain.
I am able to get the water spots off the paint by using Flex 3401 with Menzerna polishes, sealants don't seem to last more than 3 months. I use Wolfgang 3.0 sealant.
Thanks for the write up, pictures and video, they are a great source of information and inspiration.

Rex
 
Fantastic, Mike! Vielen Danke! This is almost exactly how I do it, except I have the luxury of doing a 2BM most of the time in winter, with warm water, and I use two MM IncrediPads (on my personal cars) or two Proline Grout sponges (everyone else's). The Prolines pull up and then release dirt SO WELL with D114 I'm not even sure the IncrediPads make any sort of difference.

Good write-up!!!

:dblthumb2:
 
99C5Coupe said:
Hi Mike, great write up and car looks fantastic.
I haven't used waterless/rinseless wash method yet but I have some questions to ask. My source of water for washing is well water so I use CR Spotless filtering system and car is outside 24/7. I still get water spots, maybe from pollution and lots of rain. I am guessing yours may be outside 24/7 also, have you had spotting issues after using your method? Does a coating and this method eliminate water spotting from pollution and rain? I do live in Washington where we get lots of rain.
I am able to get the water spots off the paint by using Flex 3401 with Menzerna polishes, sealants don't seem to last more than 3 months. I use Wolfgang 3.0 sealant.
Thanks for the write up, pictures and video, they are a great source of information and inspiration.

Rex
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Thank you sir. Mine is outside 24/7

You should not be getting any spots after using filtered water from the CR spotless machine it tuned properly.

You can only so so much to prevent water spotting. A coating will surely help reduce water spotting. The Flex and Menzerna will eat water spots.

If you need more protection than just 3 months, a coating is for you. Just remember you will need a garage for sure to do it and remember the proper application method.

Glad I could help


SameGuy said:
Fantastic, Mike! Vielen Danke! This is almost exactly how I do it, except I have the luxury of doing a 2BM most of the time in winter, with warm water, and I use two MM IncrediPads (on my personal cars) or two Proline Grout sponges (everyone else's). The Prolines pull up and then release dirt SO WELL with D114 I'm not even sure the IncrediPads make any sort of difference.

Good write-up!!!

:dblthumb2:
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Thank you Francesco!

D114 really does a great job of cleaning your mitt when rubbed around in the bucket against the grit guard. D114 is fantastic stuff along with its brothers.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
You mentioned saving the rocker panels for last because they are the dirtiest...does that matter when you are using the "single use" wash media method?
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I would say the same thing applies when using the "single use" wash media. With the single use media, chances are higher IMO as one media in the WW/RW method as you are trying to get the entire vehicle clean with one media rather than multiple fresh medias.

Here you are guaranteed a clean media. Just grab a new one from the wash bucket.

IMO you shouldn't be drying the panel until the panel is clean, so the drying towel shouldn't be getting dirty, so is that conventional wash "top down" conventional wisdom really applicable to this method?
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Agreed. You should not dry the panel until the entire panel has been washed. Then you can come back and dry that section. In the video I washed the door and when complete I came back to dry it.

The top down method still applies as you first presoak the panel and all excess will run down the sides. So if you start with the lower rocker panels and dry them, as soon as you move up to the door the lower panel will become saturated again with excess product from above.

I know it's not a perfect world and it's safer to do it as you suggest, I just thought this was another key advantage of the "single use" media method, is not going around and around the car working your way down, the way you would with a RW and a (rinse) bucket. For instance, if I'm rinseless washing with a single piece of media and a rinse bucket, I'm going to probably split that into "above the beltline" and "below the beltline" and go around the whole car twice (after doing the windows, roof, hood, and trunk).
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Normally yes start at the top of the vehicle and work your way down. As you mentioned, above and below the belt line. That is my normal routine.

However you could pre soak the roof and all the glass and then start making your wash passes over the entire green house area. Then come back to dry that completed area. Or you could break it down to what suits the user.

Here I shot my video on the side of the vehicle as it was the easiest to capture.

You already did the top and bottom of the door in one shot, so if it was me I'd likely just continue and do the rocker panel, I'd just make sure to wrap around the bottom of it with the wash towel to make sure I didn't pick up any dirt on my drying towel from that area.
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You could also do that. Just fold the towel and continue on or clean up you single media. The main thing is to make sure everything is clean before drying with your dry towel.

Of course then we get into the whole issue of if you've used that wash towel under the rocker panel, do you ever want to use that on the hood of your black car again, even after washing the towel. So I guess there's a good question, do you use dedicated media (washing and drying) when you go back and do the rocker panels?
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This is the beauty of using multiple towels for washing. When one gets used go in and grab a fresh one. Of course you will need say minimum of six compared to one single use media but with the multiple towels in reserve you are always guaranteed a fresh media.

I'm not trying to give you a hard time, and hey, the purpose of your thread was to show "your method" after all, I'm just playing a little Devil's advocate, but I have a headache now from thinking about this too much.
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Try not to over think it. I see your points and they are all valid. I was just showing one option of attacking a wash session without the use of a hose.

I must say that I did take it the wrong way. Hence the reason my earlier one sentence response. I had a few Heineken's in me. My sincerest apologies.

Best Regards,
Mike
 
I use a very similar method.

One thing I would recommend, is to use a towel that is NOT dark in color/gray - using a lighter colored towel allows you to better judge the amount of dirt/grime on the media
 
Frozen beads from this morning. LSP Meguiar's D156

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:)
 
Heinekens? In Germany?? Are you looking to get deported???

:D
 
Hey Mike I'm pretty new to rinseless washing and wonder why you use the wash and wax to pre soak and then wash with D114. I would think you would want to use D115 last.
 
I'm not mike but I guess it's personal preference :)
D115 can be quite expensive if use as pre soak. You can use either D114 or D115 alone too.
I had been using D114 (1:10) in spray bottle after pressure wash the vehicle for waterless wash and without pressure wash for very light dirt. The pns sealant lasted for few months.
You can mix a 16oz bottle and carry in your trunk, it makes an excellent emergency cleaner for bird dropping too :D
 
1:10 is too strong for D114, I would think. 1:32 is about as strong as I would go for any normal use, and even then it's only on seriously salt-encrusted cars that will get a fresh LSP (spray sealant or whatever).
 
D114 at 1:10 will strip wax for sure and most sealants. At that concentration, you should only use before a polishing session. That's why I use D115 as a presoak. D114 is a strong cleaning rinseless so careful about concentrations. PNS is extremely tough sealant but I can't help think you're fighting against yourself hitting it with D114 at 1:10.
 
silverfox said:
D114 at 1:10 will strip wax for sure and most sealants. At that concentration, you should only use before a polishing session. That's why I use D115 as a presoak. D114 is a strong cleaning rinseless so careful about concentrations. PNS is extremely tough sealant but I can't help think you're fighting against yourself hitting it with D114 at 1:10.
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Thanks for the tips :D
 
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