n00b - Proper application of polish compound?

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IslaTurbine

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So I'm new to the orbital polishing world. I'm using Lake Country 5" Orange and White pads along with Griot's 1, 2, and 3 polishes. My orbital is the Harbor Freight DA polisher with the grease and backing plate mods.

My question is simple (I think): When applying my polish, how long do I go back and forth the the cross-hatch pattern? What I mean is, how do you know when the application is done and you can wipe the residue off with a microfiber towel and some detail spray.

I don't know if I'm overthinking this, but I felt like the Griot's was difficult to remove with a simple wipe of a towel after application with the DA. Even with detail spray applied to the towel and paint, it still took a fair amount of effort to remove.

Should the polish be applied until it nearly "disappears" from the paint?

Thanks.
 
Go three to four passes in each direction then buff off residue and inspect your work and if you feel more is needed than do the process over, though your experience with griots due to the fact the product was not broken down enough or it was too much product lastly try folding your microfiber in fours and sit it upon you buffed out area twist then slow bite/work the towel outward till area is buffed then flip and gently wipe...just a few ideas
 
Use a lot less product than you think you should use--probably the most common novice mistake, using too much product.
 
I do 5-6 section passes and work the product until it breaks down.
 
IslaTurbine said:
So I'm new to the orbital polishing world. I'm using Lake Country 5" Orange and White pads along with Griot's 1, 2, and 3 polishes. My orbital is the Harbor Freight DA polisher with the grease and backing plate mods.

My question is simple (I think): When applying my polish, how long do I go back and forth the the cross-hatch pattern? What I mean is, how do you know when the application is done and you can wipe the residue off with a microfiber towel and some detail spray.

I don't know if I'm overthinking this, but I felt like the Griot's was difficult to remove with a simple wipe of a towel after application with the DA. Even with detail spray applied to the towel and paint, it still took a fair amount of effort to remove.

Should the polish be applied until it nearly "disappears" from the paint?

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Where are you located? Those Griot's polishes are dated and may not be the easiest to use.
 
Do yourself a favor and get Griots B.O.S.S. creams. They are smooth working and can be worked for what seems forever. Easy wipe off. I have done any where from 2 passes up to 6 passes and no problem wiping them off.

How much product are you using?
How are you priming the pad?
How much pressure are you applying?
How many passes did you make?
how fast are you moving your arm?
 
To get used to the Griots polishes you might want to section of some test spots if you have a "test mule". If i remember right, Griots uses typical diminishing abrasives and the trick is getting used to when you've broken them down and exhausted the results to get the best finish. Some test spots with various work times will show you what looks best, both before wiping off the polish and the after look. Of course that test would show you how it works ON THAT PAINT but will give you an idea of how it works down and finishes. Maybe one section worked with about 2 section passes, another with 4, another with 6-7...you get the idea. And i have always liked some pressure on the pad/machine for the first couple of section passes and then lighten up as it breaks down.

I have gotten used to what my compounds/polishes look like after X amount of passes and am used to their workable characteristics. Menzerna works LOOONG! I get to almost a point of it being almost invisible producing what appears as a rainbow look on the paint in my work light. M105? Bam, quick and clean up the remaining with a finishing polish.

The point is...try it out with different work times and experiment but remember with diminishing abrasives to work it all the way down to it's powdery state and then use that state to refine the results. I have gotten as silly as actually looking at the dusting for those that dust a bit! I know, i'm whacky, but love to understand as much as possible. I have always found this to be the fun part of trying new products...finding out how it works best! Some perfect links to Mike's School Of Perfection were provided by jamesboyy. One of the important points is wiping off to reveal the true paint condition. I LOVE Car Pro Eraser for that to insure you have removed everything.
 
WRAPT C5Z06 said:
Where are you located? Those Griot's polishes are dated and may not be the easiest to use.
Click to expand...

I'm located in North Texas. I only picked Griot's because I was told by many than it was an easy system to use and get started with.

jamesboyy said:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/19956-final-wipe-print.html


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ow-prime-foam-pad-when-using-da-polisher.html


Seee if this helps
Click to expand...

Thanks! My pad was primed each time I used a new one. Luckily I had previously seen that second video.

StephenK said:
Do yourself a favor and get Griots B.O.S.S. creams. They are smooth working and can be worked for what seems forever. Easy wipe off. I have done any where from 2 passes up to 6 passes and no problem wiping them off.

How much product are you using?
How are you priming the pad?
How much pressure are you applying?
How many passes did you make?
how fast are you moving your arm?
Click to expand...

Too much.
Detail spray and swirl of product, then I rubbed it into the pad with my hand.
Moderate pressure.
Around 4 passes.
Not too fast in my passes. I tried to be slow and methodical.


Puckman said:
To get used to the Griots polishes you might want to section of some test spots if you have a "test mule". If i remember right, Griots uses typical diminishing abrasives and the trick is getting used to when you've broken them down and exhausted the results to get the best finish. Some test spots with various work times will show you what looks best, both before wiping off the polish and the after look. Of course that test would show you how it works ON THAT PAINT but will give you an idea of how it works down and finishes. Maybe one section worked with about 2 section passes, another with 4, another with 6-7...you get the idea. And i have always liked some pressure on the pad/machine for the first couple of section passes and then lighten up as it breaks down.

I have gotten used to what my compounds/polishes look like after X amount of passes and am used to their workable characteristics. Menzerna works LOOONG! I get to almost a point of it being almost invisible producing what appears as a rainbow look on the paint in my work light. M105? Bam, quick and clean up the remaining with a finishing polish.

The point is...try it out with different work times and experiment but remember with diminishing abrasives to work it all the way down to it's powdery state and then use that state to refine the results. I have gotten as silly as actually looking at the dusting for those that dust a bit! I know, i'm whacky, but love to understand as much as possible. I have always found this to be the fun part of trying new products...finding out how it works best! Some perfect links to Mike's School Of Perfection were provided by jamesboyy. One of the important points is wiping off to reveal the true paint condition. I LOVE Car Pro Eraser for that to insure you have removed everything.
Click to expand...

Thanks everyone. It appears that I was definitely using too much product. Live and learn I guess.
 
I've got another follow up question for the Griot's polishes. If I use the #1 polish, do I then have to go over the area with #2 and then #3? Essentially, do you have to progressively work each area up to the least aggressive polish if you had to initially hit the area with something more aggressive?
 
IslaTurbine said:
I've got another follow up question for the Griot's polishes. If I use the #1 polish, do I then have to go over the area with #2 and then #3? Essentially, do you have to progressively work each area up to the least aggressive polish if you had to initially hit the area with something more aggressive?
Click to expand...

Bump. Anyone?
 
IslaTurbine said:
I've got another follow up question for the Griot's polishes. If I use the #1 polish, do I then have to go over the area with #2 and then #3? Essentially, do you have to progressively work each area up to the least aggressive polish if you had to initially hit the area with something more aggressive?
Click to expand...

In my experience, you need to follow either 1 or 2 with 3 for good results. If you are doing 1 there's no need to use 2, though, and you can go straight to 3.
 
custmsprty said:
I do 5-6 section passes and work the product until it breaks down.
Click to expand...

This, so many people will just do 3 passes and wipe off, not even breaking down the polish or abrasive, i dont even count anymore, i work the abrasive and polish till its done and i wipe off.

Doing 3 passes then going again is just more time effort and a waste of product.

Thats just how i do it, everyone has there own polishing style
 
Joe@NextLevelDetail said:
This, so many people will just do 3 passes and wipe off, not even breaking down the polish or abrasive, i dont even count anymore, i work the abrasive and polish till its done and i wipe off.
Click to expand...

Those would be the people working with SMAT abrasives. Bam bam bam and it's done. Next section.
Got no time for DAT. lol
 
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