Nanoskin Pad Marring, What did I do wrong?

MendhamCarSpa said:
My guess is the clay lube: Cheap clay lubes have silicone in them. you can determine this by looking at the ingredients. And guess what?... Silicone is the PRIMARY cause of holograms. I didn't learn this myself, but i 100% remember a reputable someone else saying it on these forums. Also, I do know that silicone is extremely hard and durable and does NOT break down microscopically like aluminum particles in polishes. I am 95% sure that is your problem. Unfortunately, clay lube isn't worth the cost (this is only my opinion), as *most* add silicone to the surface of your vehicle, and trust me, you don't want that. IF you ever use clay lube, be VERY sure to wash your car after claying to rid it of extant clay lubricant. If you'd like to contrive a marring-free finish via clay and polishing, use soapy water for the "lubricant", rinse the car totally, and then use your polish.

I firmly believe (my opinion) that your car was not marred by the pad, but by the clay lube.
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swanicyouth said:
I gotta tell ya, I don't believe it. With all due respect.
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What Stephen said :dblthumb2:
 
Spiralout:

spiralout462 said:
Far from it.........Nanoskin Autoscrub Fine Foam Pad

Marring induced by clay and clay substitutes would NOT be caused by Silicones or jeweling pads.
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Ah, I see now.. it's "rubber polymer". That's funny, I ocassionally use flat rubber pieces to remove various tire sling contaminants (light rubbing with soap only though). I would imagine that any particles on the paint would just get caught in the "rubber polymer" pad and spin with it, marring the paint drastically. I've never tried it, but that's an educated guess.
 
P.S. on the Auto-Scrub Lubricant bottle, it says "Silicone-Free" in the ingredients.
Just wanted to put that out there so everyone here knows that it doesn't have silicone in it (which is something an ingredient I was thinking may not have been good to use with the "nanoskin" pad)
 
MendhamCarSpa said:
My guess is the clay lube: Cheap clay lubes have silicone in them. you can determine this by looking at the ingredients. And guess what?... Silicone is the PRIMARY cause of holograms. I didn't learn this myself, but i 100% remember a reputable someone else saying it on these forums. Also, I do know that silicone is extremely hard and durable and does NOT break down microscopically like aluminum particles in polishes. I am 95% sure that is your problem. Unfortunately, clay lube isn't worth the cost (this is only my opinion), as *most* add silicone to the surface of your vehicle, and trust me, you don't want that. IF you ever use clay lube, be VERY sure to wash your car after claying to rid it of extant clay lubricant. If you'd like to contrive a marring-free finish via clay and polishing, use soapy water for the "lubricant", rinse the car totally, and then use your polish.

I firmly believe (my opinion) that your car was not marred by the pad, but by the clay lube.
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Has to be a joke post.
 
Evan.J said:
And just to add that while soapy water may work as a lubricant for traditional clay, the clay alternatives like the nanoskin or speedy prep towel do not work the same.

Now I have used the mitts in a bucket of water with the proper dilution of a product to make it into a clay lube and that had worked just fine. From my findings a testing is that soapy water just does not provide the proper lubrication for the towels, pads,mitts, and sponges.
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You may have a good point here. I always just used soapy water with traditional clay. I may need to change this up a little. I'm going to test this a little and try different lubes. I may even mix in a little onr with my soapy water and see if that helps.
 
Instead of making my own, new post I figured I would just bump this thread. I just used the nanoskin medium 6in pad with my HF DA on speed 1. I used Megs Detail Spray and I also tried ONR for lube. I made sure to use lots of lube and spray the pad itself. This is on a black (sigh) 2011 Subaru WRX. Subaru's are notorious for having soft clear coats. The nanoskin pad absolutely caused clearcoat marring/halogramming/haze or whatever you want to call it. I even tried using it by hand, very softly, with one of those plastic grips that you can use to polish by hand. Even that marred. I am thoroughly disappointed in this product after hearing so many positive reviews. I was able to remove the marring with a few passes of an orange LC pad w/ Megs 205, but still. I don't feel comfortable using this product if it's going to cause that kind of damage to the clear coat. I have the occasional issue with clay, but nothing compared to this. I was really hoping to speed up the claying process because it takes me so freaking long to clay the entire car. I would absolutely NOT recommend this product to owners of non-luxury cars with cheap paint jobs or soft clear coats.
 
Looks like you didn't break in the media on glass before you used it. Even after that, you'll still get marring, but it won't be nearly as bad.
 
scoobienoob said:
Instead of making my own, new post I figured I would just bump this thread. I just used the nanoskin medium 6in pad with my HF DA on speed 1. I used Megs Detail Spray and I also tried ONR for lube. I made sure to use lots of lube and spray the pad itself. This is on a black (sigh) 2011 Subaru WRX. Subaru's are notorious for having soft clear coats. The nanoskin pad absolutely caused clearcoat marring/halogramming/haze or whatever you want to call it. I even tried using it by hand, very softly, with one of those plastic grips that you can use to polish by hand. Even that marred. I am thoroughly disappointed in this product after hearing so many positive reviews. I was able to remove the marring with a few passes of an orange LC pad w/ Megs 205, but still. I don't feel comfortable using this product if it's going to cause that kind of damage to the clear coat. I have the occasional issue with clay, but nothing compared to this. I was really hoping to speed up the claying process because it takes me so freaking long to clay the entire car. I would absolutely NOT recommend this product to owners of non-luxury cars with cheap paint jobs or soft clear coats.
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You are using the medium grade pad. With the medium you will get marring and on soft paint it will leave even more marring. I firmly believe that if you are claying then you should polish after you have decontaminated the surface.

IMO the product did what its suppose to do and that was remove the above surface contamination. I think you might have been better suited to use the fine grade pad with a soft clear.

I have both and I can tell you that in some cases the fine grade mitt with mare the paint as well. With soft paints its something that happens and there isn't much you can do about but polish the paint.
 
Evan.J said:
You are using the medium grade pad. With the medium you will get marring and on soft paint it will leave even more marring. I firmly believe that if you are claying then you should polish after you have decontaminated the surface.

IMO the product did what its suppose to do and that was remove the above surface contamination. I think you might have been better suited to use the fine grade pad with a soft clear.

I have both and I can tell you that in some cases the fine grade mitt with mare the paint as well. With soft paints its something that happens and there isn't much you can do about but polish the paint.
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^Exactly. I never recommend using these "synthetic clay" products unless you're planning on doing some sort of correction or polishing afterwards. If you are simply looking to do some routine decontamination in between scheduled polishing, start with chemical decontamination (ie IronX and Tarminator) then, if needed, use an ultra fine or fine grade clay bar to pick up any remaining bonded contaminates.




I use the nanoskin mitts and LOVE them. With that being said, I have never used them on softer paint or dark paint without noticing at least some marring.

Does this bother me? - NO

The time savings with the NanoSkin Mitt is incredible. The marring has always been incredibly easy to remove with machine polishing, so it adds no time or hassle to the process.
 
scoobienoob said:
Instead of making my own, new post I figured I would just bump this thread. I just used the nanoskin medium 6in pad with my HF DA on speed 1. I used Megs Detail Spray and I also tried ONR for lube. I made sure to use lots of lube and spray the pad itself. This is on a black (sigh) 2011 Subaru WRX. Subaru's are notorious for having soft clear coats. The nanoskin pad absolutely caused clearcoat marring/halogramming/haze or whatever you want to call it. I even tried using it by hand, very softly, with one of those plastic grips that you can use to polish by hand. Even that marred. I am thoroughly disappointed in this product after hearing so many positive reviews. I was able to remove the marring with a few passes of an orange LC pad w/ Megs 205, but still. I don't feel comfortable using this product if it's going to cause that kind of damage to the clear coat. I have the occasional issue with clay, but nothing compared to this. I was really hoping to speed up the claying process because it takes me so freaking long to clay the entire car. I would absolutely NOT recommend this product to owners of non-luxury cars with cheap paint jobs or soft clear coats.
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Was you clay lube "silicone free"?


j/k.


This product is the most aggressive way to remove contamination. For a guy working on his own car, where time is not of the essence, I'd stick to regular clay or a hand operated clay substitute. Unless your car is jacked up with contaminants, I can't see a dude working in his garage on a decently maintained car needing a decon pad spinning at xxx OPM on paint.

You would have to expect marring on most paint.
 
I always recommend doing a test spot with Nanoskin when decontaminating if you are not polishing afterwards.
 
FivePoint.0 said:
Looks like you didn't break in the media on glass before you used it. Even after that, you'll still get marring, but it won't be nearly as bad.
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If that is a prerequisite step, it should be noted as such on the packaging.

swanicyouth said:
This product is the most aggressive way to remove contamination. For a guy working on his own car, where time is not of the essence, I'd stick to regular clay or a hand operated clay substitute. Unless your car is jacked up with contaminants, I can't see a dude working in his garage on a decently maintained car needing a decon pad spinning at xxx OPM on paint.

You would have to expect marring on most paint.
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But my problem is that it isn't marketed that way. The marketing is disingenuous. Call me naive, fine, but I think they should warn people better about the harshness of this product.
 
I ALWAYS follow up with polishing after claying or using Nanoskin
It's just hard not to get the paint marred.
Doesn't have to be 105 , a fine Polish normally takes care of any left over marring.
 
I like the fine grade nano skin, however it does mar soft paint (I.e., black honda paint). It wasn't a big deal because I was planning to. Use Menz 2500.
 
hoamskilet said:
If its anything like the prep towel it is noted on the package to do it on glass first
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It's not, I can assure you. I can take a picture of the packaging if you want. In fact, there is very little direction at all. Just stuff like "Make sure to use our lube!". "Glass prep? Use this product from us!". Would be nice if they including a quick summary of, oh I don't know, maybe typical DA settings or an indication of what pressure to use. Anyway, I'm starting to sound like a nancy at this point. My only intention is to warn other casuals like myself. So hopefully someone else comes across this thread later on. It's not THAT big of a deal, like most everyone said, most of the time I would expect one to be polishing after which will get rid of the marring. But let's say I'm coming off of a polish and wax a few months back and I'm just looking to rewax. Personally I like to clay after wash and then just skip the polish stage and go strait to wax. Well this nanoskin product would absolutely not do well in that instance. I don't think that is 100% clear to people, so I'm just trying to get the word out.
 
scoobienoob said:
Instead of making my own, new post I figured I would just bump this thread. I just used the nanoskin medium 6in pad with my HF DA on speed 1. I used Megs Detail Spray and I also tried ONR for lube. I made sure to use lots of lube and spray the pad itself. This is on a black (sigh) 2011 Subaru WRX. Subaru's are notorious for having soft clear coats. The nanoskin pad absolutely caused clearcoat marring/halogramming/haze or whatever you want to call it. I even tried using it by hand, very softly, with one of those plastic grips that you can use to polish by hand. Even that marred. I am thoroughly disappointed in this product after hearing so many positive reviews. I was able to remove the marring with a few passes of an orange LC pad w/ Megs 205, but still. I don't feel comfortable using this product if it's going to cause that kind of damage to the clear coat. I have the occasional issue with clay, but nothing compared to this. I was really hoping to speed up the claying process because it takes me so freaking long to clay the entire car. I would absolutely NOT recommend this product to owners of non-luxury cars with cheap paint jobs or soft clear coats.
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I recently did a correction on a blue 2009 WRX hatchback. I used the fine grade mitt and it marred the paint pretty good. I did a experiment and the marring came out with just one slow pass of pf2500 on a orange pad, but the defects remained.
 
Hmm, thats weird. There's pretty detailed instructions on the package for the towel describing how to break it in on glass. Wonder why they wouldn't do the same for the pads
 
My NanoSkin Mitt says use it on glass first to break it in. I know u used a pad so maybe that is diff but I would break it in as well.

Black paint is very touchy. Know u are always in for a polish after any type of Clay or Nano type application to decontaminate. This is what u should expect and then u wont be disappointed. Some people get lucky and don't have marring or maybe they just don't see it.

NanoSkin is a great product though. Will never look back!
 
hoamskilet said:
Hmm, thats weird. There's pretty detailed instructions on the package for the towel describing how to break it in on glass. Wonder why they wouldn't do the same for the pads
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Just want to clear up some misinformation I stated above. Apparently the Nanoskid pad DOES come with instructions to break it in on glass first (so hoamskilet and others...you were correct). The reason I never received these instructions is because I ordered my stuff from an online retailer in a "kit" format. It came with a bunch of stuff including some Finish Kare products and some Optimum products. I don't know if the Nanoskid pad they sent me was a restocked/returned item or an older production model or what but it lacked packaging except for a plastic sleeve around it. Today I talked with the guy that runs the site and he told me that it does in fact have instructions to break it in on glass. Regardless, I think the pad will still mar soft paint, so I still those concerns I expressed in addition to the OP are valid.
 
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