Need help hazing on my clients hood. Pics

After reading around some.. I'm almost wondering if since its just the hood I will be working on

Should I just do it by hand??
 
What would be the comparable products from

MENZERNA?
 
Jrocket said:
Thank You! Im using a GG6 should I be doing the above on about setting 3 or 3.5??
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I was thinking more like level 5 moderat pressure. I still think you may have over worked the polish. What size area are you working on? How many section passes are you making?

Stay with machine polishing. You need to use a polishing pad or even a light a cut pad. Is it SS paint?

As for embedded contaminants those need to go first.
 
rmagnus said:
This paint must be soft to leave hazing from XMT360. Or maybe the cleaner/wax was over worked (dry buffed)? In any case if it is SS paint then the color will come off on the pad. I'd recommend hitting it with Meguiars #7with polishing pad or waxing pad which will rejuvinate the paint with oils. If that doesn't clear up the haze I like M205 and a white pad then maybe #7 and finally wax. In either case if it's SS getting oil back into the paint will help it.

Also I don't see the need to do a chemical wipe if you plan to polish. That alone could leave hazing. More over your planning on waxing vs sealing so just polish and wax.
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:iagree:+++:iagree:+++:iagree:

That almost looks like what you would see with a calcium buildup. And what is calcium if not a 'salt'.

Coming from the old school, wax on wax off days when everything was SS, even metallics and it was mostly done by hand it was about getting to the finish line going a different direction.

Megs #7 would add some well needed oils to that paint!

UC really isn't that bad on the cut side but maybe you'd do well to try a spot and hit it with a little faster speed. Might not need the cut as much as it needs the speed and heat.
For that matter white (or finer) and UP running at 5 or better tends to pull a gloss on SS better. (after a good long soak with #7) Sounds like a good time to pull out the MF pads. (wink wink) It's not going to look and feel like CC does while it's being corrected as the SS is being buffed. Looking for it to come to life but it will not have the 'look' (and depth) that CC does. ;) I'm picturing in my mind the old school rotary guys standing that big ol' pad up on edge as the finish comes together. (If that makes any sense at all....) :dunno:

Later,
Cardaddy
 
The M07 is a good approach to take first. It has no cutting ability and would help nourish the paint. If that doesn't work I would try a test spot with UC and a white pad. Then if needed head to an orange pad. I did this on my jeep with SS paint and it made for a nice finish.
 
I don't think this problem has anything to do with single stage vs. base coat/clear coat. You would handle things the same way. It may have something to with environmental factors like you said. Maybe some guys that do a lot of detailing in beach areas could chime in or maybe even guys who work on boats that spend time in the ocean. They would be the best source for info on salt in the air and on paint.
 
sears4976 said:
Well I've done 2 white Tundras and 1 white pickup all with single stage paints. M205 on a white LC flat pad worked on them all, never had any hazing problems

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
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Lots of good info already posted in this thread but real quick before I go out to do the time lapse video on the 55 Ford Crown Victoria,


"Generally Speaking" single stage paints are softer than most modern clear coats. There are exceptions to the rules as everyone knows like many cars from Asia have softer clears do to (I think), more relaxed V.O.C. requirements.

The exception is single stage white paint which tends to be very hard because the pigment used to make white paint white is titanium dioxide powder and this pigment is hard in an and of itself so it modifies the resin used to embody it, (resin is the actual paint), thus making the paint hard.

Black single stage paint tends to be very soft because the pigment used is carbon black which is kind of like soot, which is very soft.


First... always do a test spot. Dial in a process that works before buffing out an entire car or even an entire panel. As a good rule, it's also a good idea to check the results with multiple sources of light.


Besides all of the above, I've seen, experienced and heard from others these single stage white paints from Toyota's don't alway buff very well.


It might take more than a light cut polish to remove the haze on this paint. M205 is a light cut polish. If you have it give it a try if not try to get a medium cut polish and try this with a polishing pad on the 5-6 setting on your GG

When I run into these problems I place a tape line down and by doing this I can "troubleshoot" that is see if what I'm doing is helping or hurting...


:)
 
if you have the correct product and technique then single stage is easier than clear coat, in my case the paint was hazing when i used uc. then mike advised m7 and m80 and this combination worked great for me, i used meguiars foam pads and loads of elbow grease :)
 
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