Need help picking pads and polish for and old finish

Red Lehr

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I have a friend who has a 67 fastback Mustang and this car was painted by Maaco years ago. He can't afford a new paint job yet so I am going to detail the paint for him.

The car has no clear coat and the metal flake is an aluminum based flake. When you try to polish the paint, the aluminum in the flakes turns the buffing pad black.
What kind of pad and polish would you use ???
Thanks,
Red
 
To the OP...

This article I wrote explains exactly what you want to do. It also goes in to DETAIL about working on older single stage aluminum metallic flake paints and the PROBLEMS associated with these types of paints.

The car I used for the article in my opinion is kind of ugly. I didn't even want to use this car but it fell into my lap and I'm a HUGE believer in the philosophy of take what you have and use it. So even though I didn't want to use this car for they specific article I did so anyways and that means it has lots of info just for you.


Here's an excerpt where I specifically address the issue of aluminum flake in the paint and use an aluminum wheel to show and explain the problem.


Mike Phillips said:
Single Stage Metallic Paint = Difficult to Restore
Single stage, non-metallic paints like the above paint on the Ranchero are actually very easy to fix because the problem is for the most part just topical, that is the problem is just on the surface. All you have to do is remove the dead paint off the surface and if there's enough paint left then it's just a matter of polishing what's left to a high gloss. The most difficult paints to restore are single stage metallic paints.

The reason single stage metallic paints are the most difficult to restore is because not only does the paint itself oxidize, that is the resin used as the binder, (generally some type of seed oil like Flaxseed oil or Cottonseed oil), but also the aluminum flakes embodied inside the paint oxidize. This is where the problem lies.

It's a problem because the entire exterior surface of each individual aluminum flake oxidizes over time but you and I can only work on the surface of the paint and thus we can only work on the portion of the flake that is exposed at the surface level. Any portion of each aluminum flake that is below the surface and is surrounded by paint cannot be cleaned or polished so there's no way to remove the oxidation on the portions of the flakes inside the paint.

Oxidized Aluminum Turns Black
With metallic single stage paints, oxidation can show up as a darkening effect on medium to light colored paints because the aluminum metal flakes embodied inside the paint will stain or discolor the paint with a grayish black color.


If you’ve ever polished uncoated aluminum then you’ve seen this grayish black color coming off the aluminum and onto your polishing cloth as you work a metal polish over it. This same type of oxidation is taking place to the aluminum flake inside the paint.

Polishing Uncoated Aluminum
NonAbrasiveMethod058.jpg


NonAbrasiveMethod059.jpg



Oxidized Aluminum Comes Off Black
NonAbrasiveMethod060.jpg

Wolfgang MetallWerk™ Aluminum Polishing System


In the same way you see the black residue coming off the aluminum wheel onto the piece of white cotton terry cloth material above, when working on metallic single stage paints you will see black residue coming off the paint and onto you applicator pads, buffing pads and wiping towels.


This darkening effect can take place even at the same time the surface of the paint itself is turning chalky white. This is because you have two different substances oxidizing, both the paint and the aluminum flake, which both are oxidizing at the same time. The paint oxidizes white and the aluminum flake oxidizes black.


Big picture is this....


If doing this right the first time is important to you and the owner, then rub this paint out with Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze before you start to work on it. Rub it down with a HEAVY or WET application and let the paint soak in the #7 for a few hours to even over night.

THEN.... start the correction steps and use the least aggressive product to get the job done. As I explain in the article, just rubbing the paint down with #7 by hand with a cotton terrycloth wash cloth has enough abrading ability to remove the oxidation, gorge the paint with the feeder oils and restore a pretty good looking finish.

Of course you have to put some elbow grease behind the wash cloth.

Be very careful about using a rotary buffer or any aggressive pad and compound our you'll get Tiger Stripes.


I'd highly recommend reading, not scanning the article. It's the only article like it on this topic in the world that I know of as most people that would know this stuff are either no longer with us or don't write articles on car detailing.


:)
 
I think this car has a single stage metallic paint job, it's factory too. This was done by one of my Detailing Boot Camp Students.

The before and after pictures in this extreme makeover are incredible.

1971 Dodge Coronet Original Paint Extreme Makeover with Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze



Here's another thing I taught Craig and strongly recommend to anyone restoring any car with neglected single stage paint and that is to GET THE BEFORE PICTURES!

Why?

Because you can never go back in time to get them. You can always get the after pictures but once you start working on the paint it's game over as far as getting good before pictures.


Read my article here,

The power in the after shots is created in the before shots


Have fun and good luck with this project.



:xyxthumbs:
 
Watch this video and listen to what Barry Meguiar has to say about #7 Show Car Glaze and the testimony about #7 by Wayne Carini.


[video=youtube_share;FABEguuDMFs"]Velocity Discussion Panel [/video]​


When you use #7 to restore antique single stage paint you're in good company.



:dblthumb2:
 
If you have done a test spot and founded it turns the pad black I would check to see if where you did a test spot looks any good I have a hard time believing it will turn out swirl free if the pad turns black as soon as you rub the paint.
 
If you have done a test spot and founded it turns the pad black I would check to see if where you did a test spot looks any good I have a hard time believing it will turn out swirl free if the pad turns black as soon as you rub the paint.

Thanks very much everyone for the posts you put up,all the help I've received from Mike and the forum has opened a new door for me !!

This Mustang I am working on is not expected to be a show room finish by any stretch of the imagination.,BUT, I want to do as good of a job as possible if my friend is willing to flip for the products I will need. This car will be re-painted in 2 years or so.
I started using Menzerna 1500 and a LC orange pad with good results,but there are faded areas on parts of the hood,top,and trunk of the car.

Thanks again Mike and all !!!
Red
 
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