Need help with some paint defects

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daggerNC

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These forums are a great resource - I've learned alot (but obviously not enough!). I just picked up a 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid and last weekend was warm enough in NC to do a fairly robust detailing job. I'll preface this with the core issue: I have embedded bug etchings in my paint and I could not get them out.

A little background on the vehicle - obviously bought used, and the Title history shows this '08 (at 81K miles) spent about 1.5 years in the Fleet company with a lot of highway miles, and it shows many signs of being used as a transport vehicle. My guess is that it did receive regular service, including washings, but I doubt it was waxed many times (virtually none when I got it). The front fascia and front hood lip has many instances of dried bug jerky that etched into the paint. Here is what I've tried, but so far I have very shiny bug etchings!

Most of the articles and threads I've read here go into details about removing relatively fresh bug guts, but not what to do with long term bug remains. I've thoroughly washed (Duragloss and OP Rinseless), then clayed (Griots Garage) and then using an orange foam pad spent a long time trying to polish out the bug damage and a few scratches/swirls. I used for XMT #2 Fine Swirl Remover and Duragloss Pre-Wax Cleaner using my Porter Cable DA. I did some fair amount of time (2+ hours) on the front fascia and it did smooth it out some and good shine results, but in the sunlight there are dozens of visible bug stains/etchings in the paint. Rubbing my finger over them and I can still feel hills/valleys, though smooth ones!) I then finished off the vehicle with Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0. I also tried some Pinnacle Sovereign liquid sealant on the hood. Both are very good, but I think I like the Wolfgang a bit more.

Bottom line is the front of the FEH in the right daylight exposure is still just fugly IMHO (though other areas in different light modes the vehicle looks really nice :) ). My question is there any hope to correct the bug damage due to leaving bug guts on unprotected paint for heaven knows how long? Who's got a secret sauce that can make it look much better (I'm not willing to go with really high cutting compounds - don't trust myself even with the Porter Cable DA).

Thanks in advance,
daggerNC
 
If you're not willing to go with something like M-105 then use M-205 and just keep on polishing until they're gone. That paint is fairly hard so I'd say don't be afraid of the M-105. Just check your work frequently as you go or as suggested use a non diminishing finishing polish like M-205 and put in another hour or so.
 
First off :welcome: and yes some pics may help.Where in NC are you located?
 
Hi daggerNC,

Since this was your first post... Welcome to Autogeek Online! :welcome:

daggerNC said:
My question is there any hope to correct the bug damage due to leaving bug guts on unprotected paint for heaven knows how long?
Click to expand...

Here's something you can try, get some Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and a microfiber applicator pad and using just a couple of fingers, work some Ultimate Compound against one or two of the etchings for about a minute and see if you can improve it and if you're lucky, remove it.

The bug guts can eat enough of the clear layer of paint away that the basecoat is exposed, or at least the clear layer over the basecoat layer is whisper thin and if that's the case rubbing too much will break through the clear layer and expose the basecoat clear coat and then the only way to fix this will be to repaint the affected areas.


If when you rub some Ultimate Compound against an etching and then turn the applicator over and you see the color of the paint, that's a bad sign, that means the clear is missing where the paint is etched.

Sad to say, sometimes the etchings are so bad and so deep that it will be very difficult to completely remove their appearance. But... you should give it a try because you really won't know what you can do until you try.

I wrote an article about this some time ago here,

How-To: Diamondite Bug Eraser™ Waterless Bug Remover


And in the article here's what I wrote,

Mike Phillips said:
Note: If bug splatter remains on your car's finish long enough it will actually eat into and remove both the clear layer of paint and the basecoat layer of paint and the only way to fix this will be to apply touch-up paint, (hard to do all over the car), or have the area re-painted, or have the entire front clip repainted.

Bug Spatter can actually eat through and remove paint if left on too long...
BugBGoneTest003.jpg


Warning
It's a lot less expensive to save your car's factory finish by removing the splatter as fast as you can and thus stop any damage before it's too late. If you live in an area where bugs are a problem or if you're taking a road trip where bug splatter will be a problem, prepare an Emergency Bug Removal Kit and pack it in your car.
Click to expand...

So while you may not be able to recover from the damage already done to the paint on this vehicle, if you're going to live where bug splatter is a problem then try to keep an emergency kit in the car to remove the bugs before damage occurs.


Lucky for me, I only have about a 3" to 4" narrow section of paint on the front of the hood on my truck that gets hit by bugs or I would have to deal with this problem too...

:)
 
All - thanks for quick responses. Hi Mike! Thank you for taking the time to give me your thoughts on this. I did read that Diamondite Bug Eraser article and trying not to think for the worst case. But you addressed a couple of areas where I had some reservations about how to proceed next. First one is if I try a harsher compound, then how much is too much? I'll try some of that Meguire's Ultimate Compound but using the by hand technique to get a good assessment of the level of damage. If the MUC is working, do you recommend do all by hand or OK to use the Porter Cable? And if I may ask another question if you have any experience with this product should I plan to also use a final swirl remover before the LSP application?

I've attached 4 pics - sorry for the high reflections (consequence of recent waxing/sunshine/photographer's skills)

Thanks all again!
 
By the pictures...it looks to me like those could be clayed off. I know you said you did clay. But did you really work at it? They don't come off so easily. You can't be afraid to really work it back and forth. Whatever marring is caused by the clay should be minimal if you use a good lubricant between your paint and the clay. I use ONR mixed in a spray bottle as lubricant...works great. If there is any marring, you can easily take it out with some 205. That's my two cents. :xyxthumbs:
 
Thx Kristopher - I use ONR also... Yes, I did work the clay bar (really like the one by Griots), and then I spent well over an hour of DA'ing the front fascia with swirl removers, so I don't believe there's anything that can be pulled by claying now. Sorry for the poor quality pics..

I just picked up some Meguires Ultimate Polish so I'm going to rub off some paint now :)
 
daggerNC said:
Thx Kristopher - I use ONR also... Yes, I did work the clay bar (really like the one by Griots), and then I spent well over an hour of DA'ing the front fascia with swirl removers, so I don't believe there's anything that can be pulled by claying now. Sorry for the poor quality pics..

I just picked up some Meguires Ultimate Polish so I'm going to rub off some paint now :)
Click to expand...

Hmmm. That's strange. By the pictures they look to be raised up on the surface. I've taken off those little bug fossils by wet sanding with 2000 grit before. It was fairly easy. I just don't think what you have needs to be taken to that extent though.

Have you tried mineral spirits?? Also, if you have a rotary...some 205, and a foam pad may work better for you.
 
Well, I have a blister on my thumb if that says anything :) The Meguires Ultimate Compound is a very nice product - thx Mike for the suggestion. But I still had to "scrub" the front fascia with the DA, but at least I got some results. AND, this left no swirl marks for which I was sure it would so I'm impressed. In fact, I think this will be my goto swirl remover and put the Duragloss and XMT bottles on the back shelf.

I'd say I got a 40% improvement. Some of the etchings did go thru the clearcoat layer - so I wound up using the touchup pen on a number of them. I'll apply a new coat of Wolfgang tomorrow and if I remember capture a couple of "After" pictures. I'll be interested in opinions if I need to go with an even more aggressive compound or not.

Thanks!
daggerNC
 
Hello everyone, a newbee on these forums, therefore here is my first post! According to what I have been reading in the last couple of months on different posts , can bug etching remedy be applied same as bird drop etching on finish’s surface? I use hand application for this task by the way. Hope someone still reading and replying this 2 year old thread.



Thanks a lot! :props:
 
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