NEW - Dr. ColorChip Paint Chip Repair Systems

bump! any feedback on using this on older SS paint finishes? Most of these results or feedback tend to be on cars with b/c finishes
 
Nice to find a thread talking about Dr. Color Chip. I have been using this for the last 8 months and have problems with it like some have faced. After seeing some of the guys state that it has to set longer I will have to do this.

I was doing just as instructed and also had a buddy do the same thing. We were baffled at why the SealAct was taking the paint out of the chip. I have chips on the H2 I received yesterday afternoon and it looks like I will have to apply this after polishing and just let it sit for much longer than we were doing before.

Would anyone see an issue with polishing all the painted chips to even things out. I was thinking a finishing polish with a velvet pad (used for orange peel.)
 
FullAttn2Detail said:
Nice to find a thread talking about Dr. Color Chip. I have been using this for the last 8 months and have problems with it like some have faced. After seeing some of the guys state that it has to set longer I will have to do this.

I was doing just as instructed and also had a buddy do the same thing. We were baffled at why the SealAct was taking the paint out of the chip. I have chips on the H2 I received yesterday afternoon and it looks like I will have to apply this after polishing and just let it sit for much longer than we were doing before.

Would anyone see an issue with polishing all the painted chips to even things out. I was thinking a finishing polish with a velvet pad (used for orange peel.)
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curious if you can recreate and list the steps you've taken when applying for the first time that resulted in delimination away from paint 8 months later?
 
How would one go about removing the touch up paint that was applied to the chips unsuccessfully with touch up paint in the tube before trying the Dr. Colorchip paint repair system?
 
I can't speak for paint other than what comes in the kit, but just this weekend I had some Dr. ColorChip paint that would not come off with the SealAct solution. I contacted Dr. ColorChip customer service and they recommended using straight acetone. I ended up using a q-tip to apply the acetone, followed by the SealAct, then a mf towel with Meg's QD spray to remove any acetone residue and it worked great. Below are some before and after pics of one of the chips. The acetone did remove some of the paint from down in the chip, but I was fine with that as long as the excess was gone for now.

Forgive the swirls :nomore:...still working with Jeremy at statusdetailing to set up a correction while I continue to learn
 
Funny, that I had some different results with the Dr C Chip, in that if I waited too long, like 15 minutes or so, the paint then was more difficult to level with the Sealact Solution.

For myself, I had experienced 4-7 minute drying times to be fine, that leveling was easier, without removing too much paint from the chip, and then having a need to add additional coats.

Why this is, there is possibly two reasons I can think of. One, Temps and Humidity upon application, and two, there might be some differences in the myriad of colors, in that Metallic, Pearls, or other types of paint may have a variety of other pigment ingredients, differing from just a straight color Paint?

Mine, was just a regular plain GM Summit White Paint. I found it dried quite quickly.

Great product! Once a little experimentation is done, a little bit of a learning curve to understand the product, one should not have too much trouble mastering the use of this product, and getting very good end results.
Mark
 
been going through this thread....just used Dr CC for the first time on monday for a very tiny chip on my car. Color matches and i've gone through about 3 coats over the last 4 days. and still can't seem to get it level. Its tough to notice due to the size and its now filled in with color....but what I'm reading here...i guess that's what to expect from Dr CC....would there be any value in trying to do more coats this weekend after a wash? is it ok to wait days in between coats....? it seems to pass the 3 ft test now...its just that i kinda know where it is..so it still bothers me....
 
bguiliano said:
been going through this thread....just used Dr CC for the first time on monday for a very tiny chip on my car. Color matches and i've gone through about 3 coats over the last 4 days. and still can't seem to get it level. Its tough to notice due to the size and its now filled in with color....but what I'm reading here...i guess that's what to expect from Dr CC....would there be any value in trying to do more coats this weekend after a wash? is it ok to wait days in between coats....? it seems to pass the 3 ft test now...its just that i kinda know where it is..so it still bothers me....
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I don't see it being a problem waiting that long in between coats.

Provided a couple things.

1, if you've applied any protectants to the paint, you should probably wipe the area with a mild IPA solution or a prep solvent first.

2, that you have left any excess paint outside the chip area.

It's probably common that touch up paints can shrink a little bit, so I say no harm, no foul by applying additional coats to produce a level touch up repair.

As you are getting to the finish with the use of the Sealact Solution, this is where patience, and finesse come into play.

I've seen and have had this happen with the Langka Chip Repair System in that you're getting closer, and closer, and the paint blob is leveling, then, poof, one or two swipes too many and you've now just about totally removed your touch up paint from the chip.

Now you're back at square 1 again :confused:

Now with the Dr. CC system, the paint dries quite quickly, but with the Langka, this system is relying on factory, or other touch up paints like Duplicolor, which can take forever and a day to dry. Was a system I basically shelved, who wants to wait hours-days to complete a touch up?

With the Langka System, I thought it was a total PITA, to have this happen, and then again try with such a long drawn out repair process. (What I did find the Langka Leveling Solution quite good for though, is removing past fubarred factory paint touch up jobs, then coming along with the Dr. CC after)

Plus with factory touch up type paints, applying to vertical panels, and if not possessing the finesse of a Michaelangelo, you can quite easily create sags with over-application.

Good lighting, and getting real close to the repair are definite aids.
Be comfortable. On many of the vertical panels, I used my nice little roll around stool to sit on, and had a 500W Halogen Lamp on stand a few feet on an angle away from where I was working
 
MarkD51 said:
I don't see it being a problem waiting that long in between coats.

Provided a couple things.

1, if you've applied any protectants to the paint, you should probably wipe the area with a mild IPA solution or a prep solvent first.

2, that you have left any excess paint outside the chip area.

It's probably common that touch up paints can shrink a little bit, so I say no harm, no foul by applying additional coats to produce a level touch up repair.

As you are getting to the finish with the use of the Sealact Solution, this is where patience, and finesse come into play.

I've seen and have had this happen with the Langka Chip Repair System in that you're getting closer, and closer, and the paint blob is leveling, then, poof, one or two swipes too many and you've now just about totally removed your touch up paint from the chip.

Now you're back at square 1 again :confused:

Now with the Dr. CC system, the paint dries quite quickly, but with the Langka, this system is relying on factory, or other touch up paints like Duplicolor, which can take forever and a day to dry. Was a system I basically shelved, who wants to wait hours-days to complete a touch up?

With the Langka System, I thought it was a total PITA, to have this happen, and then again try with such a long drawn out repair process. (What I did find the Langka Leveling Solution quite good for though, is removing past fubarred factory paint touch up jobs, then coming along with the Dr. CC after)

Plus with factory touch up type paints, applying to vertical panels, and if not possessing the finesse of a Michaelangelo, you can quite easily create sags with over-application.

Good lighting, and getting real close to the repair are definite aids.
Be comfortable. On many of the vertical panels, I used my nice little roll around stool to sit on, and had a 500W Halogen Lamp on stand a few feet on an angle away from where I was working
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What do you think about leveling the dr cc paint with a credit card perhaps wrapped in the rubber glove to get it level?
 
bguiliano said:
What do you think about leveling the dr cc paint with a credit card perhaps wrapped in the rubber glove to get it level?
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You mean when first applying, then smearing across a chip?

I tried it on my Kia's hood, as this 15 year old hood looks like somebody took a sandblaster to it.

In that scenario what I found was a hell of a lot of excessive waste of paint. being spread-smeared all over the hood, where it had no benefit at all. What a nasty mess I thought. Nope, just took one of their little Micro-Fiber Applicators, and with paint bottle in hand, dotted the living hell out of every single chip I saw in a given area very quickly. Dot-Dot-Dot-Dot....... you get the picture.

Thus I concentrated on doing smaller sections of the hood, breaking it up, 15x15 perhaps. Apply to every singular little chip, let set up, and dry for 5-6 minutes time, then go to work with the Sealact Solution wiping down those sections initially, then better concentrating on individual chips to finesse.

Dr CC gave a match of paint hue, a Pearl Magenta Metallic that astounded me literally. I took 13 years of beatings off the hood, that looked like I followed behind a gravel truck for 50K miles with an hour's time of work.

If you're saying like the Langka Process, to then level with the paper towel like material to level, wrapped around a credit card like Langka, no, I didn't find a need to do that at all.

That as for leveling the blobs and excess paint applied, I found Dr CC relatively very easy to work with, just with supplied white rag, and the Sealact.
 
MarkD51 said:
You mean when first applying, then smearing across a chip?

I tried it on my Kia's hood, as this 15 year old hood looks like somebody took a sandblaster to it.

In that scenario what I found was a hell of a lot of excessive waste of paint. being spread where it had no benefit at all.

Thus I concentrated on doing smaller sections of the hood, breaking it up, 15x15 perhaps. Appy, then go to work with the Sealact Solution wiping down those sections initially, then better concentrating on individual chips to finesse.

If you're saying like the Langka Process, to then level with the paper towel like material to level, wrapped around a credit card like Langka, no, I didn't find a need to do that at all.

That as for leveling the blobs and excess paint applied, I found Dr CC relatively very easy to work with, just with supplied white rag, and the Sealact.
Click to expand...


Mine is such a small chip yet when I put dr cc paint in it and then swipe with my thumb it always seems like I can still see the outline of the chip

Btw any harm in reusing the glove it came with?
 
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