New Product - Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0

CieraSL said:
This brings up a question I've been wanting to ask. If you wanted to go over the car with something after a wash, which would be a better option over Opti-Coat: Optimum Instant Detailer or Optimum Car Wax? I hope to wash, Iron X, clay, polish, and Opti-Coat my car this weekend if I can.
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Shane, its really just personal preference, but I use instant Detailer because i prefer the beading characteristics of OC and when I use OCW it changes it first a couple weeks.

chris11le said:
@Chris:

what pad would I use with Megs 205 to "rough up" the panels before recoating with OptiCoat?

I have Excel detail pads from forever ago, black (finish), blue (semi-finish), green (polish), yellow (light cut) and orange (cut), along with the Megs MF system.
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I think the green will be best as long as it finishes good.
 
Quick question: Of the following (which I already own), which would you use as a drying aid for a black, Opti-Coated car?

1. FK 425
2. Prima Hydro
3. ONR @ QD strength
4. Adam's detail spray

Or does it not really matter that much as they will all add similar protection from marring while I dry, but will all disappear quickly anyway as they won't stick to the OC? I guess my question is really which of the above (if any) might better protect against marring while drying? Or also which would least affect the properties of OC (i.e. beading...).

Thanks for any thoughts!
 
newb001 said:
Quick question: Of the following (which I already own), which would you use as a drying aid for a black, Opti-Coated car?

1. FK 425
2. Prima Hydro
3. ONR @ QD strength
4. Adam's detail spray

Or does it not really matter that much as they will all add similar protection from marring while I dry, but will all disappear quickly anyway as they won't stick to the OC? I guess my question is really which of the above (if any) might better protect against marring while drying? Or also which would least affect the properties of OC (i.e. beading...).

Thanks for any thoughts!
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For best protection while you dry use a waterless wash like UWWP or OOC. If you are careful and the car is perfectly clean and the towel is high quality or the paint isn't crazy soft, any of your other qd favorites there will work fine.

Also keep in mind the OC takes weeks or months to completely harden and reach its full level of scratch resistance. Remain just as gentle in your technique even after the OC is protecting it.
 
CEE DOG said:
For best protection while you dry use a waterless wash like UWWP or OOC. If you are careful and the car is perfectly clean and the towel is high quality or the paint isn't crazy soft, any of your other qd favorites there will work fine.

Also keep in mind the OC takes weeks or months to completely harden and reach its full level of scratch resistance. Remain just as gentle in your technique even after the OC is protecting it.
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Thanks Corey. I do have opti clean and will give that a try!

And I'll definitely continue to be as careful as ever in washing/drying.

On a side note, how soon after OC is applied can I wash it (and do I have to worry about not using certain products right away)? I think that with CQ you are supposed to wait a couple weeks before washing (water was ok, soap was not), or something like that.

Thanks!
 
Opti-Coat vs Summer Bugs Update:

Had to drive a couple of hours late at night, and I seemed to fatally injure about every large bug within a few acre radius of the highway.

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Not having enough time to do a proper job cleaning the bug guts off, and not having any PB Bug Squash around :nomore: I ran it through the touch less wash (hey it's opti-coated now) as the best alternative.

Here are the after results from the cheapest wash selection (there was no dry cycle, I just hopped on the interstate for about 5 miles on my way home and all the water flew off).

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It did a fantastic job releasing all of those nasty bugs, if I had a pressure washer, it would have done the same job letting them just slide off
 
Very cool Bill! I have yet to need anything more then a pressure washer to remove the bugs from my car now that it has OC on it. :)
 
newb001 said:
Thanks Corey. I do have opti clean and will give that a try!

And I'll definitely continue to be as careful as ever in washing/drying.

On a side note, how soon after OC is applied can I wash it (and do I have to worry about not using certain products right away)? I think that with CQ you are supposed to wait a couple weeks before washing (water was ok, soap was not), or something like that.

Thanks!
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Initial Care:
Opti-Coat – Allow to cure before washing
CQuartz- Avoid washing the vehicle with any soap for 7 days. Rinsing with water is ok
 
^ In response to the earlier question, the only drying aid I have found to work on OC, is OID. The rest/others streak.
 
So yesterday I got some products delivered from AG and had to try the OOC on my OC car.
I just applied some on the roof, I sprayed it on and it ran off the roof so quickly because of the OC. The OOC is very thin but it sure gave the car a slicker and shinier appearance for sure.

Heh Corey, you know how OOC tells you to use Liberally but it streaks.
Should I go over it with a dry MF after?
 
Finally got around to doing the test.

Sprayed one side of the car with 3:1 PowerClean. Let it dwell for a minute or two while I setup the regular car wash stuff. Washed with a thick foam of Chem Guys Citrus Wash. After the wash I went back and the water sheeted off pretty darn well. Almost as nice as most of the OptiCoat vids I see, but not quite as fast (maybe different pressure water, etc). repeated for the other side, then hood roof and trunk.

There are a couple spots that seem to be "lazy" about sheeting, Im guessing those panels need to be re-done, but 99% of the car seemed like it has something there.

Of course the proof will be tomorrow in the sun, if the paint looks "blah" then I probably just stripped everything off (and the OptiCoat was never really there), but it looks good so far.

-Chris
 
What is the bet way to clean stained plastic trim prior to using OC? Most of the trim-specific products seem to leave protection on the trim, which would probably interfere with OC. I am referring to the typical black trim around windows that may have some white spots from polish and other sealers.
 
Sunstealer said:
What is the bet way to clean stained plastic trim prior to using OC? Most of the trim-specific products seem to leave protection on the trim, which would probably interfere with OC. I am referring to the typical black trim around windows that may have some white spots from polish and other sealers.
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I've used "Low Odor Mineral Spirits" (White Spirits) to clean the wax/contaminates/trim-specific products from black plastic trim. Then I follow that up with a good car wash shampooing session. Others may have different ideas/suggestions.

Bob
 
has anyone flown with this stuff? I'm assuming it's not something you want to put in your carry-on even though it's less than 100ml but how secure is the tube/packaging? If I put the package in a large zip lock then put it in my checked luggage is that good enough? Thx
 
Chris, coupla OC quizzicals...

Any testing on chrome motorcycle exhausts? Would OC stand up to the heat?

Is the blue tip I see in product pics supposed to be included? Didn't get one with my OC... I figured it should've been in the baggie with the foam pad.

TL
 
Yes OC can be used on chrome and high reps aren't a problem.

Yes, the blue tip is shipped (unattached) with the syringe and applicator. If you need one PM me...I never use mine, though.
 
Chris, I'm interested in offering this on my headlight restorations. I have gone through most of the pages on here but did not find a definitive answers to a few of my questions (or I obviously missed them) before pulling the trigger on the OC 2.0

About how much product is applied when working a small area such as a headlight lens?

Can this be applied in full sun? Sometimes I work outside when temps are 40-110 degrees as well. How does a hot surface affect OC flashing or completely curing?

How long does OC 2.0 need to fully cure or the vehicle to be washable/drivable? You've previously stated "a little bit longer" than Opti-Guard. How much longer would you say this is? I don't want a customer stuck at work while their headlights dry.
 
g35_coupe said:
Chris, I'm interested in offering this on my headlight restorations. I have gone through most of the pages on here but did not find a definitive answers to a few of my questions (or I obviously missed them) before pulling the trigger on the OC 2.0

About how much product is applied when working a small area such as a headlight lens?

Can this be applied in full sun? Sometimes I work outside when temps are 40-110 degrees as well. How does a hot surface affect OC flashing or completely curing?

How long does OC 2.0 need to fully cure or the vehicle to be washable/drivable? You've previously stated "a little bit longer" than Opti-Guard. How much longer would you say this is? I don't want a customer stuck at work while their headlights dry.
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I would normally advise against full sun application, but something as small as a headlight it may be ok...you'll just have to try it. You will only need a few drops per light. It will be able to be driven within 10 minutes, can be wetted after an hour, and can be washed after 24 hours.
 
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