New Product - Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0

[D_Nyholm]

You wouldn't want to split a panel because the product won't stick to itself. You won't be able to finish the rest of it with OC unless you polish off the side you already did. Plus, it will look a bit odd with only one side done, so aesthetically it is undesirable.

Yeah, i figured that but that won't affect me so i'm good to go. As far as aesthetics, it will be like using two different waxes that have different effects. I do that with 2 of my cars currently with no ill effects for testing purposes.

On a side note, if OC doesn't stick to itself and you only did half the hood and decide you want to follow up with OC on the other side, wouldn't that make the split point cover perfectly since the new OC would only stick to the hood that DOESN'T have OC on it? And the stuff that already has OC on it would allow you to wipe off the new OC with a MF towel. At least that is the way i'm understanding it. It sounds like a perfect way to apply.

 

[eanelson]

doug also noted that you use more doing a few panels here and there b/c you have to prime the pad each time.

Also the applicator can be washed immediately after use and reused.

I was thinking about this as I was applying mine (at least for me) I don't think it would use much more product. I primed the pad by applying 5 drops in an x pattern on the pad then wiped the panel a little. I then applied 3 drops and finished off the first panel. So it will definitely use more product, but I don't think it would be a lot more.

 

[D_Nyholm]

Yeah, i've noticed that priming doesn't take too much. I've honestly noticed that doing a whole car doesn't take too much. I've done 3 cars (Jeep Wrangler, so it was small, E55 with glass roof, and Lexus ES350) and i've only used about 12 cc of product. Seems like i'll be able to get 4-6 cars out of a tube. Not too shabby.

 

[Blackthorn One]

Yeah, i figured that but that won't affect me so i'm good to go. As far as aesthetics, it will be like using two different waxes that have different effects. I do that with 2 of my cars currently with no ill effects for testing purposes.

On a side note, if OC doesn't stick to itself and you only did half the hood and decide you want to follow up with OC on the other side, wouldn't that make the split point cover perfectly since the new OC would only stick to the hood that DOESN'T have OC on it? And the stuff that already has OC on it would allow you to wipe off the new OC with a MF towel. At least that is the way i'm understanding it. It sounds like a perfect way to apply.

Since it doesn't stick to itself, it won't bond to the other half that you did, which means that you won't have continous coverage of the panel. There will be a split where the two sections that you did separately meet. Logically it is how it seems to me, and so there would likely be a fine line between the two areas on the same panel.

 

[dougaross]

I was thinking about this as I was applying mine (at least for me) I don't think it would use much more product. I primed the pad by applying 5 drops in an x pattern on the pad then wiped the panel a little. I then applied 3 drops and finished off the first panel. So it will definitely use more product, but I don't think it would be a lot more.

Let's say you two panels at a time vs doing the whole car. The whole car would use on average approx 3 drops per panel where doing 2 panels at a time would use 5.5 drops per panel. Almost twice as much.

I only mention this because due to time constraints I did it approximately 2 panels at a time which involved wash, clay, 3 step polish, 2 step clean, and coating. This was not the most efficient method but thats how I did it. When I was done I had used a whole syringe. This approximately twice what I should have used. Car looks great and simple to keep clean.

So however you choose to apply it just be aware that frequent priming does have an impact.

 

[D_Nyholm]

Since it doesn't stick to itself, it won't bond to the other half that you did, which means that you won't have continous coverage of the panel. There will be a split where the two sections that you did separately meet. Logically it is how it seems to me, and so there would likely be a fine line between the two areas on the same panel.

Still not seeing it. There is either no OC or OC on it. So the product should theoretically bond RIGHT up to the point of the OC starting.

 

[dougaross]

Still not seeing it. There is either no OC or OC on it. So the product should theoretically bond RIGHT up to the point of the OC starting.

Are you sure this a black/white situation? How about a partial bond that just doesn't exhibit the OC characteristics we know and love?

 

[eanelson]

I agree, it's nice that it spreads so thin. I did all of the painted portions of a 2008 Subaru Legacy and only used ~5ml and I know I wasted a little bit. I am sure the glass and stuff will only use a few more ml at most.

 

[D_Nyholm]

Are you sure this a black/white situation? How about a partial bond that just doesn't exhibit the OC characteristics we know and love?

Good point, either way, if I have a .01mm section that doesn't have OC on it (or have a strong bond), i'm not too worried!!

 

[eanelson]

Let's say you two panels at a time vs doing the whole car. The whole car would use on average approx 3 drops per panel where doing 2 panels at a time would use 5.5 drops per panel. Almost twice as much.

I only mention this because due to time constraints I did it approximately 2 panels at a time which involved wash, clay, 3 step polish, 2 step clean, and coating. This was not the most efficient method but thats how I did it. When I was done I had used a whole syringe. This approximately twice what I should have used. Car looks great and simple to keep clean.

So however you choose to apply it just be aware that frequent priming does have an impact.

Good point. I guess I was thinking of doing the car in two separate goes rather than just 2 panels at once. Doing it your way, I can see how it would use quite a bit more product.

 

[Chris Thomas]

Still not seeing it. There is either no OC or OC on it. So the product should theoretically bond RIGHT up to the point of the OC starting.

It dries as a hard resin and although it doesn't bond to itself, it is very hard to remove and you are stuck with a hazy mess. We recommend doing entire panels...if you want to play "what if" you're on your own. I don't always have time to do a whole car, so I will correct and coat a panel at a time. But, I can never see a reason to only coat part of a panel. This is a permanent coating...not a monthly LSP. If you want to tape off a section to so a longevity test or something, I can see it...but just not taking the time to do a complete panel seems wasteful in any scenario I can imagine.

 

[unclestu]

Wow this stuff sounds amazing!. I know that I am a little late to the party as this product has been out for a while now but I have been away from the boards for quite some time.
I have just purchased two new rides. Both of them are new 2011 Cadillac CTS's one is a wagon and the other is a CTS V coupe. My intention was to strip anything that the dealer might have applied to the paint by giving the car a thorough wash and clay job followed by a light polishing with 85rd. I was than going to seal the paint with Wolfgang paint sealant and top it with Fuzion (as I have these products on hand)
However reading about this Opti Coat has got me re-thinking this project.

The coupe is silver and the wagon is the pearl white do you think the Opti Coat will look as good as the deep gloss paint sealnt 3.0 and fuzion combo? I was always happy with the look that the deep gloss paint sealnt and Fuzion gave to my Porsche and Escalade but I like the idea of a one time application LOL

If I go with the Opti Coat my prep would be comprised of the following: wash, clay, Wolfgang paint polish enhancer, light polish with Mensurma 85rd wash with Opti Clean, test for beading and than apply Opti Coat. Is that the ccorrect procedure?

Thanks

Stu

 

[CEE DOG]

Hi Uncle Stu!! Great to see you. After you are done polishing I would wash with Optimum Power Clean 3:1 and then give it a IPA or ms wipedown before application.

Btw: May the shine be with YOU. Im the MAN

 

[Blackthorn One]

Wow this stuff sounds amazing!. I know that I am a little late to the party as this product has been out for a while now but I have been away from the boards for quite some time.
I have just purchased two new rides. Both of them are new 2011 Cadillac CTS's one is a wagon and the other is a CTS V coupe. My intention was to strip anything that the dealer might have applied to the paint by giving the car a thorough wash and clay job followed by a light polishing with 85rd. I was than going to seal the paint with Wolfgang paint sealant and top it with Fuzion (as I have these products on hand)
However reading about this Opti Coat has got me re-thinking this project.

The coupe is silver and the wagon is the pearl white do you think the Opti Coat will look as good as the deep gloss paint sealnt 3.0 and fuzion combo? I was always happy with the look that the deep gloss paint sealnt and Fuzion gave to my Porsche and Escalade but I like the idea of a one time application LOL

If I go with the Opti Coat my prep would be comprised of the following: wash, clay, Wolfgang paint polish enhancer, light polish with Menzerna 85rd, wash with Opti Clean, test for beading and than apply Opti Coat. Is that the correct procedure?

Thanks

Stu

If you look at the pics of cars done with it, they look great, but not as great as WGDGPS or Fuzion, or a high quality wax, IMO. Most waxes don't bond to the coating, so if you use it, you can't get the rich warm glow of a carnauba wax, but then, not having to wax at all is the point of the product. This seems to have mostly a neutral shine, neither warm nor cold, with a very slghtly cloudy, deep look to it. It's perfect for the DD, or anything you keep outside all the time. No offense intended to Optimum, it's just my view.

As far as procedure for application, if you are going to be polishing with 85RD, I don't see the point of using Wolfgang Paint Polish Enhancer before that, in order to apply any coating, including a wax.

 

[Chris Thomas]

If you look at the pics of cars done with it, they look great, but not as great as WGDGPS or Fuzion, or a high quality wax, IMO. Most waxes don't bond to the coating, so if you use it, you can't get the rich warm glow of a carnauba wax, but then, not having to wax at all is the point of the product. This seems to have mostly a neutral shine, neither warm nor cold, with a very slghtly cloudy, deep look to it. It's perfect for the DD, or anything you keep outside all the time. No offense intended to Optimum, it's just my view.

As far as procedure for application, if you are going to be polishing with 85RD, I don't see the point of using Wolfgang Paint Polish Enhancer before that, in order to apply any coating, including a wax.

They will bond, but not well and the longevity is reduced...if you're ok with a month then go for it, but one of the best qualities of the coating is the repellancey and water shedding. If you top it then what is on top is going to be the attributes you see.

 

[Munich77]

Stu,

Make sure to post pictures of your sweet rides - that CTS-V wagon is just awesome (as is the coupe and the sedan).

 

[daveinsweethome]

Stu, wow someone as nuts as me. bought two new cadillacs too. a cts coupe and a srx for the wife. sent two mercedes to new happy homes. miss the e 63 a little. a cts v is quite the ride. love the interiors and appointments of the new caddys.

 

[rcomito]

Stu, wow someone as nuts as me. bought two new cadillacs too. a cts coupe and a srx for the wife. sent two mercedes to new happy homes. miss the e 63 a little. a cts v is quite the ride. love the interiors and appointments of the new caddys.

Kindred spirits - My bride and I have an SRX and a CTS sedan respectively. We've
been driving Caddys for decades.

I definitely have V envy. Good luck with your new rides guys.

Rick

 

[chris11le]

The initial "grab" is what you WANT it to feel like. This is an indicator telling you that the coating is setting up and starting to bond.

If you have a nice glassy feel after you apply it then you did something wrong, like buffed it down too soon.

It will feel smoother after a 24 hour period but it will not have that "just waxed" feel to it so don't expect that and then feel as if it didn't work properly.

Anthony

Im bringing up and old comment because of what I felt on my car after the detailer had applied OptiCoat:

The car did feel smooth. Im not sure why, as I watched him apply it......he did a PrepSol wash on the whole car, a quick polish to remove some defects, then did a PrepSol wipe on each panel before applying OptiCoat.

The car felt smooth after he was done, which I was surprised (and worried) about. I drove the car home and let it sit for a couple days before taking it on a 900 mile round trip.

I washed the car after getting back from the trip and saw that there was plenty of hydrophobic-ness, in the form of beading and sheeting depending on the panel direction and how much water I sprayed on it. So, my only guess is that *something* is on there, and it would almost HAVE to be the OptiCoat. The surface of the paint now feels "grabby" as would be expected from OptiCoat.

This is actually why I started another thread asking if there is a way to tell if it bonded or not.

Should I be worried? Should I go back to the detailer and ask for a re-application? I havent gotten around to a second wash yet, Im curious to see if the beading/sheeting is still there, or if maybe my first wash just happened to wash something off the surface and now there is little or nothing protecting the paint

 

[LegacyGT]

Im bringing up and old comment because of what I felt on my car after the detailer had applied OptiCoat:

The car did feel smooth. Im not sure why, as I watched him apply it......he did a PrepSol wash on the whole car, a quick polish to remove some defects, then did a PrepSol wipe on each panel before applying OptiCoat.

The car felt smooth after he was done, which I was surprised (and worried) about. I drove the car home and let it sit for a couple days before taking it on a 900 mile round trip.

I washed the car after getting back from the trip and saw that there was plenty of hydrophobic-ness, in the form of beading and sheeting depending on the panel direction and how much water I sprayed on it. So, my only guess is that *something* is on there, and it would almost HAVE to be the OptiCoat. The surface of the paint now feels "grabby" as would be expected from OptiCoat.

This is actually why I started another thread asking if there is a way to tell if it bonded or not.

Should I be worried? Should I go back to the detailer and ask for a re-application? I havent gotten around to a second wash yet, Im curious to see if the beading/sheeting is still there, or if maybe my first wash just happened to wash something off the surface and now there is little or nothing protecting the paint

I wouldn't be worried. If you need to convince yourself, go spray some water on the surface and see how it reacts. I have found OC to be tough as nails so far, and it sounds like your detailer did a proper prep job for it to bond.