New Product - Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0

Well.... 31,167 views have to account for something. I bought the Opti-Coat 2.0 for my new Hyundai. I'm one of those guys that wax a car once when it is new and then runs it through the $5 car wash once every 3-4 years.

I'm hoping not to change my habits. I assume a new car doesn't have anything on it's clear coat so I'll wash it... run that silly puddy over it and seal that baby up!
 
I'm reading the advisory not to apply OC 2.0 to chrome. What's up with that? No problem avoiding bumpers if that's a must but I have individual chrome letters instead of a trim strip. What are the ramifications?

TL
 
TLMitchell said:
I'm reading the advisory not to apply OC 2.0 to chrome. What's up with that? No problem avoiding bumpers if that's a must but I have individual chrome letters instead of a trim strip. What are the ramifications?

TL
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If it's just "chrome plastic" I wouldn't worry about it -- I've never had any bad reactions happen as a result of contact with OC.
 
TLMitchell said:
I'm reading the advisory not to apply OC 2.0 to chrome. What's up with that? No problem avoiding bumpers if that's a must but I have individual chrome letters instead of a trim strip. What are the ramifications?

TL
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I'm aware of the official recommendation avoiding glass, but I am not aware to avoid chrome. I have applied it to many vehicles and never avoided chrome and have never had an issue.

kevperro said:
Thanks Chris.... I'll do you the favor of not asking how to apply it.

Oh...by the way. What is the best method of washing my car before use?
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There are many threads and posts about this, so look around for more in depth answers...but basically you need to do a strong wash, polish the paint, and remove the polishing oils prior to application. This is not a product that wears away and because of its permanent nature your paint needs to be "prepped" not just washed for successful application.
 
kevperro said:
Oh...by the way. What is the best method of washing my car before use?
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Like Chris says you'll want to make sure the paint is bare, after that you can apply it. To make it bare you can use Dawn to wash your car or something like Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and even diluted OPC. If you're car is brand new and the dealer didn't do anything to it, you can't see anything flawed with the paint go on ahead and apply OC. However just know that if you did miss a spot and went ahead and sealed it, you'll have to polish off OC2.0 in that area and reapply.

Chris@Optimum said:
I'm aware of the official recommendation avoiding glass, but I am not aware to avoid chrome. I have applied it to many vehicles and never avoided chrome and have never had an issue.
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Chris made me wonder about that also. I know David F's thread on the other forum he applied it to everything on one half of his Fusion. From the paint, trim, glass everything. And if I remember right OC2.0 only lasted about sixish months on the glass, but everything else was going strong.

I have plastic chrome trim and I think I'm just going to apply OC2.0 on it anyways.
 
Thanks guys.... I'll order some OPC because that is probably going to be my standard washing/touch-up agent anyway.

It is new... the paint looks great to me so I have no intention of polishing it. I just want to preserve they way it looks and make washing easier. It doesn't need a show-room finish for my needs. If after application it beads water and makes bugs/tar and cleaning easier it will have accomplished my goals.
 
With the application time constraint in mind:

How would this be applied on a large motorhome where there are no panels for a small section, at a time, application?
 
Is it possible for bird bombs to etch OptiCoat?

Just got hit with one at some point today, the car wasnt parked in the sun at all but it was pretty baked on. At home I hit it with pressurized water and most of it came off, but you can see some marking where it was. Hit that with OptiClean (3:1) and it got a little better but its definitely still there.

Any ideas? Since Ive always wondered if OptiCoat actually bonded correctly to my paint, is it possible that it did NOT, and now Im seeing the results of that?
 
chris11le said:
Is it possible for bird bombs to etch OptiCoat?

Just got hit with one at some point today, the car wasnt parked in the sun at all but it was pretty baked on. At home I hit it with pressurized water and most of it came off, but you can see some marking where it was. Hit that with OptiClean (3:1) and it got a little better but its definitely still there.

Any ideas? Since Ive always wondered if OptiCoat actually bonded correctly to my paint, is it possible that it did NOT, and now Im seeing the results of that?
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Bird bombs and even hard water spots can etch into the OC/paint if not dealt with right away....but it really depends on the poopie itself. Maybe try some Poli-Seal on the spot.


FWIW, my car got hammered with hard water spots a few weeks ago...I was parked in the street by a friends house and the neighbors sprinkler system doused my car with water in the hot 90+ degree sun. I came out later that night to dried on spots over 75% of the car. I ran it through a touch-less wash right away but the damage was already done. My car sat outside for 8 more days in the hot summer sun before I could get to it...

Surprisingly enough I was able to remove 100% the water spots chemically by just using some CG Water Spot Remover...they never actually etched into the OC or paint. Now I can't say for sure that it was the OC that saved me, but I'd definitely like to think it helped! :props:


Rasky
 
BTW when using the trio of OPT Compound II, Polish II and Finish do we not have to do a final wipedown?
 
Rei86 said:
BTW when using the trio of OPT Compound II, Polish II and Finish do we not have to do a final wipedown?
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As far as the new version of the polishes go, you only need to wipe down with a clean damp MF towel. I'm told there is nothing in them that will interfere with the bonding of OC.
 
RaskyR1 said:
Bird bombs and even hard water spots can etch into the OC/paint if not dealt with right away....but it really depends on the poopie itself. Maybe try some Poli-Seal on the spot.

Rasky
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I dont have OptiSeal, but I *do* have OptiCoat........Im wondering if my time/money would be better spent roughing up the panel (along with polishing out the etching) and then reapplying OC.

This is gonna be tough to keep up with if every little bird bomb does that much damage.
 
RaskyR1 said:
As far as the new version of the polishes go, you only need to wipe down with a clean damp MF towel. I'm told there is nothing in them that will interfere with the bonding of OC.
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Thanks man:)
 
chris11le said:
I dont have OptiSeal, but I *do* have OptiCoat........Im wondering if my time/money would be better spent roughing up the panel (along with polishing out the etching) and then reapplying OC.

This is gonna be tough to keep up with if every little bird bomb does that much damage.
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He said Poli Seal, which is an AIO product, similar to a cleaner wax, which has polish in it. Opti Seal is a completely transparent pure sealant with no polish in it.
They are not the same product.

If you redo the Opti Coat, you will need to polish off the entire panel and redo the whole thing. If the Opti Coat didn't get etched, the paint would have been etched far worse without it. Better the Opti Coat get etched than your paint. There are strong acids in bird droppings. There are no acid proof LSPs that I know of. Try putting a layer of another LSP on top of the Opti Coat as an additional layer of protection.
 
Used this for the first time last week.
Its stupid easy! Goes on awesome, see high spots go over them again very lightly. Let dry, done.
 
Blackthorn One said:
He said Poli Seal, which is an AIO product, similar to a cleaner wax, which has polish in it. Opti Seal is a completely transparent pure sealant with no polish in it.
They are not the same product.
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Ahh my bad!! It didnt make sense to me because I knew OptiSeal was just a sealant.

Ill see if I can pick up a sample of PoliSeal to try out. Any idea how "aggressive" one can get with PoliSeal on OptiCoat before the need to re-coat?

I know the whole panel will need to be done if I go that route, and considering its a rear quarter (i.e. not separated from the door frame, etc) Im not quite sure where I would STOP recoating, so Im hoping I can go a less aggressive route first (now that I know POLI seal is what I want, instead of Opti seal)
 
chris11le said:
Ahh my bad!! It didnt make sense to me because I knew OptiSeal was just a sealant.

Ill see if I can pick up a sample of PoliSeal to try out. Any idea how "aggressive" one can get with PoliSeal on OptiCoat before the need to re-coat?

I know the whole panel will need to be done if I go that route, and considering its a rear quarter (i.e. not separated from the door frame, etc) Im not quite sure where I would STOP recoating, so Im hoping I can go a less aggressive route first (now that I know POLI seal is what I want, instead of Opti seal)
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Poliseal isn't very abrasive and it will fix high spots. If you have to recoat polish to a tape line then move the tapeline a quarter inch ontonthe unpolished part, then polish the over lap after it's cured (24 hours). Not difficult at all.
 
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